AF illumination problem

snowdreamsnowdream Posts: 3Member
edited September 2014 in Nikon DSLR cameras
So my problem is late in the evening shooting at events lit by party lights, candles, the usual wedding stuff, my autofocus will not grab reliably. I love AF-C, but the AF illumination will not glow for the AF-C. Even in AF-S my camera is having trouble seeing the pattern and grabbing quickly.

My AF illumination problem would be solved nicely if I could use AF-C. Do any of you know a hack for this or is there a third party gadget that will shine a beam for me?

Is there a third party flash that will use the AF illumination in AF-C?

D810
pocket-wizard system
SB-910 or SB-900 on camera


Sb-800's off camera
Post edited by snowdream on

Comments

  • sevencrossingsevencrossing Posts: 2,800Member
    edited September 2014
    none of the the Nikon Flash AF illuminations work in AF-C and as third party flashes seem to be copies they are are unlikely to work ether

    One solution for AF-C is to use a video light to increase the illumination

    which lens are you using? an f1.4 prime will work better in AF-S than an f4 zoom
    Post edited by sevencrossing on
  • JJ_SOJJ_SO Posts: 1,158Member
    @snowdream , @sevencrossing is right. If you have to snap pictures in difficult light conditions, use fast primes. maybe it helps as well if you reduce the number pf AF points, as some of those are more sensitive than others. What you also could try is getting a pilot light with IR filter in front of it (which I also will try this evening to find out if it's of any use). Human eyes are not bothered by IR light, but maybe the AF module gets enough light by it.

    In any case, more devices around the camera don't make things easier, I know. So best remains: Fast prime! I'm often wondering how low the light can be and still getting properly focused pictures by D810.
  • snowdreamsnowdream Posts: 3Member
    Primes are not a solution to this problem.

    I am shooting with
    24mm 1.4g
    35mm 1.4g
    85mm 1.4g
    200mm f2 VRII

    I shoot wide open late at night.

    Bumping ISO and on camera af assist are not helping.

    I just need that in flash AF beam to keep punching out. It seems to operate better with fresh batteries in all the flash units, external and on camera, and in the pocket wizard flex units, but even when I do see the AF beam push a pattern over the subject the 810 seems to "lag" or pause before the shutter release.

    Any clues about that "lag"? It seems to be pretty constant throughout the evening. During better light conditions I have no issues with getting a focus and getting shutter release super fast.

    I am reluctant to use any of those lights video guys use, they are so harsh and it changes the mood of the party from dim candle romance to DMV style light.
  • JJ_SOJJ_SO Posts: 1,158Member
    So I guess I misunderstood: I thought, you use your flashes as well to light up the scenes. Of course, flashes will empty the camera whe they have to produce light sequences bright enough for focussing. I admit, I thought, "well if he uses flashes anyway, there's not much of candlelit atmosphere left"

    As there are no faster primes than the ones you already use (in any case, good you said what you're using), the only possible solution I know of is the one I already brought up. Torch or LED light with infrared filter in front and hopefully the AF module works with IR light source as well.

    I have a Sony 828 which has inbuilt IR-LED and a laser pattern for those kind of situations, but a laser pattern's romantic potential is yet still to be discovered
  • sevencrossingsevencrossing Posts: 2,800Member
    If you are just using the AF beam to focus, what are you doing with pocket wizards ?

    Have you tried the AF without the wizards and with the flash off
  • snowdreamsnowdream Posts: 3Member
    edited September 2014

    Possible solution (insert face palm). In my camera sub menu my (a1) AF-C and (a2) AF-S were set to different settings, front button fire on AF-C and front button focus on AF-S.

    The lag is probably me, telling the camera to focus with the back button then to focus again with the front button, being so dark and usually loud, i cannot see the action occurring.

    I will test this result and assume the problem is fixed for now.

    Post edited by snowdream on
  • spraynprayspraynpray Posts: 6,545Moderator
    I assume you are using a tripod in the dark, so why not do what I do - use a torch (flashlight)?
    Always learning.
  • Golf007sdGolf007sd Posts: 2,840Moderator
    @snowdream: Have look at this article, I think this will help address your objective.

    How to Make Autofocus Work in Extremely Low Light
    D4 & D7000 | Nikon Holy Trinity Set + 105 2.8 Mico + 200 F2 VR II | 300 2.8G VR II, 10.5 Fish-eye, 24 & 50 1.4G, 35 & 85 1.8G, 18-200 3.5-5.6 VR I SB-400 & 700 | TC 1.4E III, 1.7 & 2.0E III, 1.7 | Sigma 35 & 50 1.4 DG HSM | RRS Ballhead & Tripods Gear | Gitzo Monopod | Lowepro Gear | HDR via Promote Control System |
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