D7100

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  • JJ_SOJJ_SO Posts: 1,158Member
    edited June 2013
    So far, I still try to figure out a good seeting. On D800 and D7000, setting the type of batteries to LR6, (Alkaline-Manganese) works pretty good with Eneloops. These types have a very low self dischargement, but they are not exactly supported by the menu choice of batteries. Setting the D7100 to any of this settings didn't help with this kind of batteries. I never get 600-700 shots, indicator always shows "low battery" long ago. And relying on the EN-EL15 which is still inside the body, can be misleading. All cams are set to "battery grip first", but if the indicator goes down, it's a stupid idea to rely on a (in case of the D7100 or D7000) double capacity.

    This time, I noted the exposure number on a sheet of paper.

    What I really would appreciate is a charging plug. I see the risk of overheating batteries damaging the cam and all of them get hot when in the charger, but always this pulling out of AA-cells and unscrewing the grip to get the camera battery out is annoying. At least a bit of heat all cams can take, they get warm as well when shooting at higher frequencies or longtime exposures.
    Post edited by JJ_SO on
  • JJ_SOJJ_SO Posts: 1,158Member
    edited June 2013
    Just checked the manual. I could not find a number of shots per battery. I think the variation would be too huge and too difficult to predict.

    All I can say is, I don't use so much different settings in the D7100 that these would be a good reason for low number of shots.

    As reasons for high power consumption some were already called by name, I try to complete the list:
    VR
    focus assistance light
    LV
    long playback times
    lots of zooming in LV and playback
    screen at high brightness
    Inbuilt flash
    video at high frame and pixel rates
    double use of SD cards (one as backup, or RAW+JPG
    GPS sensor
    In camera HDR or RAW-developing
    Long waiting time for ML3 (infrared remote)
    Eye-Fi card
    ....
    Most of them I can tick out.

    I just checked the EN-EL 15: 76% remaining capacity and 40 shots done. That would mean, less than 200 shots?
    I was certain, the battery was freshly charged and the grip was always underneath the camera. How come 76% ?

    But maybe I just have to live with it and the EN-El 15 is too weak for so many megapixels? D800's grip has 2 AA-cells more in the holder.
    Post edited by JJ_SO on
  • spraynprayspraynpray Posts: 6,545Moderator
    IIUC JJ, you are saying you get best results from the EN-EL15's? If that is the case, why not just get a bunch - especially if you have multiple bodies that use them? I am only interested in this part of the D7100 thread (I don't have one) because I am getting a grip and I recall a thread where it was reported that 'a' grip (I think it was a genuine MD-D11) drained the batteries overnight and thought this may be your problem but it isn't that it seems.

    I can report that my D7000 goes on and on and on for weeks with the same charge in the battery before I get fed up with worry about it and charge it anyway! The only thing I don't do from your list is a lot of LV work. Everything else including High ISO NR and Delayed Exposure I do a fair bit of.

    I have a wedding coming up so I am very interested in all matters battery and grip. especially non-Nikon grips.
    Always learning.
  • JJ_SOJJ_SO Posts: 1,158Member
    edited June 2013
    No, I'm saying, the D7100 sucks the batteries faster empty than I'm used too. I have no experience, how fast a D7100 (or in that case: my D7100 for it might be not ok) would empty a second EN-EL15

    I would not disagree with your statement of D7000, as mine shows the same behaviour and is often switched ON for weeks. I think I recall a firmware update for D800 and D7000 which kept the batteries even longer, but am not sure.

    So far I haven't tried two EN-EL15 in the D7100. But now I saw the numbers - same capacities but double weight for Eneloop, it could be worth a try. Also, the cam registers the capacity of the battery and the shots made with it . if it's EN-EL15, you can remove the battery and insert again into the cam without charging, the numbers will be the same. But that I want to doublecheck, maybe I was mistaken.

    Anyway, I didn't see registering the token shots with the normal battery holder. Must admit, though, I was not checking the battery diagnosis before. It's also a question of costs. I can get two dozen Eneloops (= 4 fresh and rechargeable fillings) for the price of one genuine EN-EL15!
    Post edited by JJ_SO on
  • JJ_SOJJ_SO Posts: 1,158Member
    On second thought in your case: Do you already own a spare EN-EL15? If yes, how about this: Get some Lithium cells and use the spare EN-EL15 in the grip. Have the AA-cell holder of the grip ready with the Lithium cells. So you can circulate two rechargeable batteries and you are safe if it comes to the worst: both empty.
  • spraynprayspraynpray Posts: 6,545Moderator
    I don't already own a second genuine EN-EL15, and that is a whole new subject:

    I see big reputable companies here in the UK and in the 'States who are now selling non OEM EN-EL15 equivalent batteries so I am thinking that all the scaremongering claims they will destroy you cameras are BS. In fact I have a friend who ONLY buys cheap batteries. He did that on the basis of having a duff OEM battery for his C***n and although they don't always last as long as his genuine batteries, they have never blown up or burnt out any of his cameras and are a tiny fraction of the C***n batts. On that basis, I am considering buying a non-OEM battery from a reputable company.

    Maybe this is a way forward for you too?
    Always learning.
  • JJ_SOJJ_SO Posts: 1,158Member
    As even genuine parts are no guarantee against blow-up in the cam (remember the EN-EL15 call-back debacle of Nikon) I don't have a problem with non genuine parts - in my G11 a half price battery is working as fine as the OEM). I'm just never sure, if everything is working the same way. Documenting the number of shots and the rest capacity is a nice feature. So far, I didn't care for it, now it becomes a bit more important for analysis of D7100's battery hunger.

    If I knew the original Chinese manufacturer, I would get his batteries.
  • NSXTypeRNSXTypeR Posts: 2,287Member
    I don't already own a second genuine EN-EL15, and that is a whole new subject:

    I see big reputable companies here in the UK and in the 'States who are now selling non OEM EN-EL15 equivalent batteries so I am thinking that all the scaremongering claims they will destroy you cameras are BS. In fact I have a friend who ONLY buys cheap batteries. He did that on the basis of having a duff OEM battery for his C***n and although they don't always last as long as his genuine batteries, they have never blown up or burnt out any of his cameras and are a tiny fraction of the C***n batts. On that basis, I am considering buying a non-OEM battery from a reputable company.

    Maybe this is a way forward for you too?
    Well my reasoning is that if you spend the money for a $1000 + camera, I wouldn't risk it with non OEM batteries, guarantee or not. Also, the warranty "requires" you to use OEM batteries. Not sure how they find out, but it's something to consider.

    I don't use it all that much so 1 battery is all I need.
    As even genuine parts are no guarantee against blow-up in the cam (remember the EN-EL15 call-back debacle of Nikon) I don't have a problem with non genuine parts - in my G11 a half price battery is working as fine as the OEM). I'm just never sure, if everything is working the same way. Documenting the number of shots and the rest capacity is a nice feature. So far, I didn't care for it, now it becomes a bit more important for analysis of D7100's battery hunger.

    If I knew the original Chinese manufacturer, I would get his batteries.
    From my very early impressions of the D7000, I too feel as if it drains quickly. But considering that I've only owned it for the last 6 months or so and have only used it for a couple days max, I have no idea if it's a fluke or not.
    Nikon D7000/ Nikon D40/ Nikon FM2/ 18-135 AF-S/ 35mm 1.8 AF-S/ 105mm Macro AF-S/ 50mm 1.2 AI-S
  • IronheartIronheart Posts: 3,017Moderator
    http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/742056-REG/Nikon_27014_EP_5B_Power_Supply_Connector.html
    $50
    http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/467222-REG/Quantum_Instruments_TSC_Turbo_SC_Battery_Pack.html
    $275
    http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/268895-REG/Quantum_Instruments_CD100_CD_100_Cable_for_Turbo.html
    $100

    These three parts will run your d7000 for about 3 hours of continuous video shooting, or probably 3000 stills. Weighs 422g but clips to your belt. Quantum makes bigger power packs if you want to power your flash or get more run time. For the cost you could buy 7 en-el15, so pick your poison.
  • JJ_SOJJ_SO Posts: 1,158Member
    edited June 2013
    Actually we were talking about some lousy grams more or less. Maybe I should start to think big, ;))
    but first I unloaded the EN-EL15, put the timer on 700 × 2 shots and in a couple of hours I know more about those batteries.
    Post edited by JJ_SO on
  • JJ_SOJJ_SO Posts: 1,158Member
    I'm a bit confused. Don't know why the interval series stopped after 1161 shots and didn't go the full 1400. There was still power in the grip's cells. Shutter times were between 1/20 and 25", all in RAW and with VR. 1000 shots would be great, but why is the cam sometime showing "low energy" after less than 300?
  • IronheartIronheart Posts: 3,017Moderator
    It's all of the other "features" you have turned on. When in intervalometer mode the previews are short (if at all), and many other things are minimized. (metering, auto-focus, etc...). None of these amount to a hill of beans compared to the monitor at full brightness. Perhaps a video or live view test would show the effect compared to the still shot test
    So as to why your test stopped early, I would bet your cells dipped below the threshold for a minute. Batteries are non-linear in their response to load and when you came back they may have had a chance to recover somewhat.

    When you say "low energy" do you mean the camera refuses to take more pictures or just 1 bar left? 1 bar can equal 100s of photos in my experience. Are your cells new? Do you fully discharge them before charging back up?
  • JJ_SOJJ_SO Posts: 1,158Member
    Cells are / were fully charged Eneloop rechargeable batteries. Those and nothing else. Probably Interval stopped because it got too dark for A-mode? There were 150 shots between 5 and 25 sec.

    Tell me about the features... Autoplayback is off, LV rarely in use, no GPS, no VR if not necessary, info-screen rarely in use, no double recording of SD cards, what else?

    Do you know Sanyo Eneloop batteries? You don't need to discharge them. First, the charger is doing that, second, they have no memory effect, third, the self dischargement is extremely low. You can keep em 3 months without loosing all power.
  • DaveyJDaveyJ Posts: 1,090Member
    @Photobug: I find recharging the D7100 3X more frequently than the D7000. I do use live view more, etc. I do think it is important that those considering a trip with recharging valiability know about this ahead of time. Would it make me put off buying a D7100? NO!! It is a fine camera!
  • PB_PMPB_PM Posts: 4,494Member
    Are you using new batteries with the D7100? I ask because new cells need 8-10 cycles before they reach maximum performance.
    If I take a good photo it's not my camera's fault.
  • JJ_SOJJ_SO Posts: 1,158Member
    Eneloops are a bit different than "normal" rechargeables. The inner structure of them contains a a grid to prevent self-discharging- You buy them charged and you can store them for about 3 months without loosing as much power as NiMh or NiCd cells usually do.

    Yes, I also tried the ones I have in the MB-D11 for about 2 years now. No difference in behaviour. It's like there's a power consuming standby. That's the reason I'm thinking about of sending the grip in. It doesn't have a power switch, so I can't measure what's going on. As I see only D7100 cosuming a lot of power, I don't think, it's the cells, I use 28 of them.
  • IronheartIronheart Posts: 3,017Moderator
    @JJ_SO, we're all familiar with eneloops here, I have 16 of them myself that I use mostly for speedlights. There is nothing magic about them, they need to be conditioned (fully discharged/recharged occasionally) like any other Ni-MH battery. Perhaps your charger is malfunctioning? Have you checked the voltage with a meter? Trying to troubleshoot this issue remotely is difficult at best. Why not bring your gear to Northern California and I'll hook it up on my bench? :-) Anyway it seems for sure that the 7100 is more power hungry than the 7000, although not clear why. The main difference is the screen, larger, brighter, more dots. That would be my guess on the largest power hog...
  • JJ_SOJJ_SO Posts: 1,158Member
    If my chargers (the AA cell and the ones for EN-EL15) were malfunctioning and I charge all batteries in them, why should the D7100 be the only item to show poor battery life? I have a grip for D800, D7000, several flashes - all of them appear normal in their battery hunger. Also, the series of 1100 RAW shots with one charge, I'd call ok. It's only the power loss by "normal use" which appears a bit weird to me.

    "Any other NiMH battery" would be no surprise to discharge while not using them. The "Non-magic" of the Eneloops is only, I can exclude that behaviour, they are stable. I was not aware how widespread Eneloops are.

    Another difference, additional to the ones you're talking about is 50% more data to store and to calculate JPGs, if necessary.

    I can measure the voltage, but of course not the capacity of the cells.
  • PB_PMPB_PM Posts: 4,494Member
    Eneloops are great batteries, but they are not the only ones that have those advanced features these days.

    In any case, in my post anyway, I was referring to the lithium ion batteries that ship with the camera.
    If I take a good photo it's not my camera's fault.
  • JJ_SOJJ_SO Posts: 1,158Member
    Ah, didn't get that. Could be... But then, I do have one spare EN-EL15 and whichever cam needs fresh energy, it gets the recently charged one, so they go through all three bodies. I could not say which cam currently is loaded with the battery that came with D7100.

    Just checked 20 cells now: None of them was lower than 1.27 Volts, the freshly charged were 1.36 Volts. The EN-EL15 in the D800 showed 27% rest capacity, 347 exposures done. That went straight into charger (too soon). Now I crossed the EN-EL15 through all bodies and asked for battery status

    D800: 1 @ 99%, 2 @ 100%, 3 @ 94%
    D7000: 1 @ 99%, 2 @ 100%, 3 @ 94%
    D7100: 1 @ 99%, 2 @ 100%, 3 @ 94%

    Exactly the same capacity display for each cell, no matter in which body. I'm amazed. If I would have been clever enough, I wouldn't have put No. 4 directly into charger. That resets the exposure counter. Would have been interesting what each cam had shown.
  • IronheartIronheart Posts: 3,017Moderator
    That's because the lithium Nikon batteries have electronics in them that report back to the camera on the state of charge. Pretty clever those Nikon engineers.
  • JJ_SOJJ_SO Posts: 1,158Member
    Yeah, sometimes they are :D
  • PhotobugPhotobug Posts: 5,751Member
    edited June 2013
    Quote Daveyj . Would it make me put off buying a D7100? NO!! It is a fine camera!

    It looks like general consensus is the battery performance is not that big a deal and everyone loves their D7100. Thanks for getting back to me on my question.
    Post edited by Photobug on
    D750 & D7100 | 24-70 F2.8 G AF-S ED, 70-200 F2.8 AF VR, TC-14E III, TC-1.7EII, 35 F2 AF D, 50mm F1.8G, 105mm G AF-S VR | Backup & Wife's Gear: D5500 & Sony HX50V | 18-140 AF-S ED VR DX, 55-300 AF-S G VR DX |
    |SB-800, Amaran Halo LED Ring light | MB-D16 grip| Gitzo GT3541 + RRS BH-55LR, Gitzo GM2942 + Sirui L-10 | RRS gear | Lowepro, ThinkTank, & Hoodman gear | BosStrap | Vello Freewave Plus wireless Remote, Leica Lens Cleaning Cloth |
  • adsads Posts: 93Member
    The only other thing I can think of is the screen - it has more pixels, which generally chews up more juice.

    Unfortunately my 7100 suffered from banding, even some jpgs out of the camera were pretty much useless. Absolutely loved shooting with the camera, but was sad when I saw the shots on the laptop.

    I don't see many reports around of anything similar, I must have just got a dud :-( Its going back...
  • spraynprayspraynpray Posts: 6,545Moderator
    The only other thing I can think of is the screen - it has more pixels, which generally chews up more juice.

    Unfortunately my 7100 suffered from banding, even some jpgs out of the camera were pretty much useless. Absolutely loved shooting with the camera, but was sad when I saw the shots on the laptop.

    I don't see many reports around of anything similar, I must have just got a dud :-( Its going back...
    Are you sure your editing technique is OK? Is the banding there even if you get the exposure dead on in camera?
    Always learning.
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