I agree, I find ISO 6400 useable with light NR, about the same as the D700. To need NR at ISO100 you must be under exposing and pulling the shadows out too much.
If I take a good photo it's not my camera's fault.
The key here is 'at 100% crop', you can see noise very easy, even on a blue sky. I almost never crop that much so noise is not visible but I still find the picture colors much better after nr. I agree with the noise being better at 12 mp than the D700 (which is what I was saying). If you go see my PAD planes taken at ISO 200, get the original size at 100% zoomin, you should be able to see noise on the plane body where I left it but you will not see in on the sky where I removed it.
I knew about this before buying because I saw it on samples from Nikon. Perhaps I am doing something wrong after all, if so, I would like to know what, or maybe I am plain maniac
The key here is 'at 100% crop', you can see noise very easy, even on a blue sky.
Ah ok, yes, I know what you're talking about. For a complete newbie, it's always shocking to see that there's so much of this "grain" going on even on very good sensors – at least it was for me when I looked at the images of my first DSLR. Technically, this is not noise in the same sense as the low-ISO noise, and it is what can be referred to as "tonal differentiation. Here's something than KR wrote on the issue, I guess this is what you mean: http://www.kenrockwell.com/mamiya/dm33/tone.htm
If the scene allows you to shoot at the most ideal ISO setting of 100 then it generally means that you have a scene that will likely require little to no editing beyond aesthetics and environmental components. In almost all cases where you're at ISO 100 with the D800 its pretty safe to shoot in JPEG and do no post production - the results are that good, especially so when printed. The decision to add NR to your photos shot at ISO 100 was a pretty big mistake, but we all make mistakes and thats the best way to learn how to do things right.
Or "deep cropping" since this is really not noise, but just the resolution of the sensor being exposed. Ah heck, why not just call it "pixel peeping" :-)
I red the entire thread and there is good info here.
Personally I would buy a used D700 since you know that camera "inside out". Go to eBay and run a search. Be patient and you eventually will find one in really good condition with a low number of shutter activations. It may take a month but you will find one. Then bid aggressively.
My second option is to buy a factory reconditioned D800 to save the money of buying a new one. The adjustment to the D800 is minimal.
Those are your best options. Avoid the D600, you will not like the grip and overall size.
D750 & D7100 | 24-70 F2.8 G AF-S ED, 70-200 F2.8 AF VR, TC-14E III, TC-1.7EII, 35 F2 AF D, 50mm F1.8G, 105mm G AF-S VR | Backup & Wife's Gear: D5500 & Sony HX50V | 18-140 AF-S ED VR DX, 55-300 AF-S G VR DX | |SB-800, Amaran Halo LED Ring light | MB-D16 grip| Gitzo GT3541 + RRS BH-55LR, Gitzo GM2942 + Sirui L-10 | RRS gear | Lowepro, ThinkTank, & Hoodman gear | BosStrap | Vello Freewave Plus wireless Remote, Leica Lens Cleaning Cloth |
Depends . . . if you shoot "boutique" shots, using different bodies is fine. However, if you're "working" two bodies (e.g., weddings, other fast-paced events, etc.), nothing beats identical bodies. Note that the ISO buttons on D3-series bodies, and the D800/E, are in waaaay different places. This alone slowed me down enough to convince me to acquire a second D3s. If working, opt for two, identically set-up, D700 bodies (or, possibly, sell your D700, and buy two D600s). If shooting "boutique" (e.g., plenty of set-up time, no client, etc.), having "specialized" bodies is good, perhaps even preferred.
I have a D700 and I find that my D7000 does better in low light up to ISO3200...
“To photograph is to hold one’s breath, when all faculties converge to capture fleeting reality. It’s at that precise moment that mastering an image becomes a great physical and intellectual joy.” - Bresson
I have a D700 and I find that my D7000 does better in low light up to ISO3200...
@kyoshi: I must be doing something wrong. I don't like to go higher than 640 at worst with my D7K if the light is poor (like cities at night). Brighter light is better though.
I found that the key for me is to turn active NR off. The noise you get is so minimal that you can pull it out in a raw editor. I'm surprised you are wary at ISO640. I see no noise in my shots up to ISO1250. Ill shoot a side by side tomorrow
“To photograph is to hold one’s breath, when all faculties converge to capture fleeting reality. It’s at that precise moment that mastering an image becomes a great physical and intellectual joy.” - Bresson
There's a difference in using high ISO to get short shutter speeds (mostly bright light) or high ISO for getting "the last photon standing" into the sensor. By shooting with a tripod, you can stay with ISO 200 at night. But this doesn't increase the dynamic range of the D7000 to the level of "modern" bodies. The gap in that dynamic range is greater at high ISO from D7000 to D7100.
Sometimes it's only the question of metering properly. Unfortunately, spot metering gets more unreliable the lower the light density is. The results often are deep shadows and if you try to ligt them up in post, the noise gets rapidly more visible.
My experience with NR is limited, I was from the beginning setting it to low- or OFF-levels. I think, the firmware is less frequently updated than my RAW converters are.
I always shoot ISO 100 on a tripod, I only tend to use High ISO for fast action in not quite enough light as low light work is where I see unacceptable changes to the colour and too much noise.
“To photograph is to hold one’s breath, when all faculties converge to capture fleeting reality. It’s at that precise moment that mastering an image becomes a great physical and intellectual joy.” - Bresson
Well I pulled the plug and ordered the D800. It's out of stock right now, so the battery grip is showing up today and noETA on the body. It's going to be like have the keys to a Ferrari with a club on the steering wheel. And I'm impatient!
Edit: Just got shipment notification! Happy surprise
@greybagel the D700 is a great companion to the D800, its images texture and colors are slitly different and I find the two complementary. I end-up leaving the D700 at home most of the time because of the extra weight.
I am very attached to my old D700 and I still have to produce as satisfying images with the D800. I have a focus issue with it and still have to decide which will go to Europe with me in two weeks.
I am sure you will love it.
I recently update my ViewNx and a few other things and now my D700 NEF look very odd and washed on my computer but CS5 still makes good sense of them. This makes the D700 usage even more complicated for me.
Comments
is not visible but I still find the picture colors much better after nr. I agree with the noise being better at 12 mp than the D700 (which is what I was saying).
If you go see my PAD planes taken at ISO 200, get the original size at 100% zoomin, you should be able to see noise on the plane body where I left it but you will not see in on the sky where I removed it.
I knew about this before buying because I saw it on samples from Nikon. Perhaps I am doing something wrong after all, if so, I would like to know what, or maybe I am plain maniac
Here's another Ken Rockwell example from the other side of the sea, Fuji Velvia (ISO 50) film, just in case you want to see some really strong film grain: http://www.kenrockwell.com/contax/t/sample-images/87160035-athen-sfweb.jpg
D3 • D750 • 14-24mm f2.8 • 35mm f1.4A • PC-E 45mm f2.8 • 50mm f1.8G • AF-D 85mm f1.4 • ZF.2 100mm f2 • 200mm f2 VR2
"noise at ISO 100"
or
cranking up the ISO
Personally I would buy a used D700 since you know that camera "inside out". Go to eBay and run a search. Be patient and you eventually will find one in really good condition with a low number of shutter activations. It may take a month but you will find one. Then bid aggressively.
My second option is to buy a factory reconditioned D800 to save the money of buying a new one. The adjustment to the D800 is minimal.
Those are your best options. Avoid the D600, you will not like the grip and overall size.
|SB-800, Amaran Halo LED Ring light | MB-D16 grip| Gitzo GT3541 + RRS BH-55LR, Gitzo GM2942 + Sirui L-10 | RRS gear | Lowepro, ThinkTank, & Hoodman gear | BosStrap | Vello Freewave Plus wireless Remote, Leica Lens Cleaning Cloth |
"Discovery consists in seeing what everyone else has seen and thinking what nobody else has thought"--Albert Szent-Gyorgy
Sometimes it's only the question of metering properly. Unfortunately, spot metering gets more unreliable the lower the light density is. The results often are deep shadows and if you try to ligt them up in post, the noise gets rapidly more visible.
My experience with NR is limited, I was from the beginning setting it to low- or OFF-levels. I think, the firmware is less frequently updated than my RAW converters are.
Maybe this is for another thread guys...
Edit: Just got shipment notification! Happy surprise
News flash: Your D700 just became your backup camera, the D800 is going to become your go to body
Nikon N90s, F100, F, lots of Leica M digital and film stuff.
I am very attached to my old D700 and I still have to produce as satisfying images with the D800. I have a focus issue with it and still have to decide which will go to Europe with me in two weeks.
I am sure you will love it.
I recently update my ViewNx and a few other things and now my D700 NEF look very odd and washed on my computer but CS5 still makes good sense of them. This makes the D700 usage even more complicated for me.
Congrat again
|SB-800, Amaran Halo LED Ring light | MB-D16 grip| Gitzo GT3541 + RRS BH-55LR, Gitzo GM2942 + Sirui L-10 | RRS gear | Lowepro, ThinkTank, & Hoodman gear | BosStrap | Vello Freewave Plus wireless Remote, Leica Lens Cleaning Cloth |