Lens suggestion for night photography with a Nikon D7100 ?



  • proudgeekproudgeek Posts: 1,422Member

    I think you meant divide FL into 600 or 400 didn't you? i.e.for 400mm lens on a D7000 400/400=1 sec and for a 200mm lens you get 400/200= 2 sec?
    Correct. I got it backwards. So 600 / FL = Shutter Speed

  • heartyfisherheartyfisher Posts: 3,181Member
    Thanks for that little formula ... very useful ..
    Moments of Light - D610 D7K S5pro 70-200f4 18-200 150f2.8 12-24 18-70 35-70f2.8 : C&C very welcome!
    Being a photographer is a lot like being a Christian: Some people look at you funny but do not see the amazing beauty all around them - heartyfisher.

  • proudgeekproudgeek Posts: 1,422Member
    One more note on this topic. I follow a Bay Area-based amateur photographer on Flickr by the name of Matt Walker, whose stuff I think is great.
    He's done some great astrophotography work both in Yosemite and Big Sur (his fog pictures of the Golden Gate Bridge are pretty good too). He does a really nice job explaining his process too, which is nice.
    He's totally one of us—before taking a trip out to the West Coast last summer I asked him for some advice on which lenses I should bring, given that he shoots out there so much. His advice? All of them.
  • lkbuchananlkbuchanan Posts: 17Member
    @dissent I fixed the link so that it is not private. I have been using the software that came with the camera for post production but I also have Adobe Lightroom, Photoshop CS5 and PhotoNinja but I have not learned how to use Lightroom or PhotoNinja yet.

    @ Golf007sd Thanks for the chart, I will try using that next time I go out which hopefully will be tonight.

    I purchased the 35mm f/1.8 lens and took photos last night but did not have time to look at them on the computer due to getting home at 2:30 am and needing to be up at 6:30 am to get ready for work I-) but I will try and post the outcome later this evening. Maybe after a nap LOL!!

    Thanks to everyone for all their input! Everyone is so kind!! I love this site!
  • GodlessGodless Posts: 113Member
    Try the cheap Samyang 16mm f/2 wideangle.
  • lkbuchananlkbuchanan Posts: 17Member

    Image Quality: Jpeg Fine (8-bit)
    Camera Info
    Device: Nikon D7100
    Focal Length: 35mm
    Focus Mode: Manual
    Aperture: F/1.8
    Shutter Speed: 20s
    Exposure Mode: Manual
    Exposure Comp.: 0EV
    Metering: Spot
    ISO Sensitivity: ISO 2500
    Image Settings
    White Balance: Color Temp. (3850K), 0, 0
    Long Exposure NR: OFF
  • obajobaobajoba Posts: 206Member
    I am going to make only one small suggestion, others may not agree, but I think the 35/1.8 is far sharper and has a lot less CA (chromatic aberration) at f/2.0 than it does at f/1.8. You might think about sacrificing a bit of ISO speed to bump to f/2 or f/2.2 on that lens. That is based strictly on my experience with a D7000 and the 35/1.8.
    D4 | 70-200 2.8 VR | 24-70 2.8 | TC-17e II
  • dissentdissent Posts: 1,304Member
    These aren't bad at all Laura. You're getting a bit of star trailing with the 20 sec exposure time. Golf's table sets the max exposure at 14 sec for the crop sensor on the D7100. The next method you may want to look into is to take multiple frames at shorter exposure times (to reduce trailing) and then use a program like Deep Sky Stacker to stack them together. As I understand it (I'm a certified newbie here), the program will align the frames using bright stars for reference. This should improve your signal to noise ratio. I'm hoping to spend some more time on this sort of thisng in the near future, but I envy you for your nice dark sky site. I'm going to have to drive a couple hours west to get away from my nearby city lights. Makes for a real long night.
    - Ian . . . [D7000, D7100; Nikon glass: 35 f1.8, 85 f1.8, 70-300 VR, 105 f2.8 VR, 12-24 f4; 16-85 VR, 300 f4D, 14E-II TC, SB-400, SB-700 . . . and still plenty of ignorance]
  • Golf007sdGolf007sd Posts: 2,840Moderator
    edited August 2013
    A cool program to consider. The following video might also bear some fruit for some of you night shooters.

    StarStax Application.

    Post edited by Golf007sd on
    D4 & D7000 | Nikon Holy Trinity Set + 105 2.8 Mico + 200 F2 VR II | 300 2.8G VR II, 10.5 Fish-eye, 24 & 50 1.4G, 35 & 85 1.8G, 18-200 3.5-5.6 VR I SB-400 & 700 | TC 1.4E III, 1.7 & 2.0E III, 1.7 | Sigma 35 & 50 1.4 DG HSM | RRS Ballhead & Tripods Gear | Gitzo Monopod | Lowepro Gear | HDR via Promote Control System |
  • DarrylDarryl Posts: 1Member
    Hey, Just saw this thread for the first time and wanted to chime in.
    The 7100 is a great performer for a crop sensor. I shoot pretty much strictly at night and use the 7000. The 18-105 is a workable lens but it does create a few "seaguls" around your stars. The Tokina 11-16 f2.8 is probably one of the most used lenses among Landscape Astrophotographers as it is relatively low on CA, is fast and pretty sharp.
    I've got a bunch of tutorials online if you're looking for night shooting.
    http://darkclearskies.blogspot.ca/p/blog-page_10.html (Tutorials page)
  • spraynprayspraynpray Posts: 6,349Moderator
    edited January 2014
    Tokina 11-16 f2.8 is the lens I use, great performance and good price too. I find the f2.8 essential for night work.
    Post edited by spraynpray on
    Always learning.
  • MsmotoMsmoto Posts: 5,396Moderator
    @Darryl. Great post, excellent instructions on link. Thanks and welcome to NRF
    Msmoto, mod
  • lkbuchananlkbuchanan Posts: 17Member
    edited February 2014
    I just want to thank every for their input. I did buy the Tokina 11-16 lens but have not tried it a night yet. I think I overwhelmed myself when I bought a few lenses at the same time. I also purchased the Tamron 90mm f/2.8 and absolutely love it!

    @Darryl I will check out the tutorials, thank you!
    Post edited by lkbuchanan on
  • shoot123shoot123 Posts: 2Member
    The lens you'll want depends A LOT on the type of subject you're shooting. Sometimes you'll want a fast wide angle lens, and sometimes a "slow" consumer zoom lens is fine. A lot depends on the scene you're shooting and various components of exposure that you want to control (aperture setting, shutter speed you need, ISO setting).

    I've been using a handy slide chart calculator from FotoSharp for a number of years that you might want to consider. It can help you decide what type of lens you'll need for various situations you might be shooting before you leave home, or help you pick a good exposure when you're in the field shooting :)

  • HipShotHipShot Posts: 506Member
    Yes, Daryl, thanks for sharing!
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