SLR Lens Coatings vs. DSLR Lens Coatings...Problem??

Ray610

Hi. First post, so here goes.

I have some good Nikon glass...85f1.4, 80-200AFS, 17-35, etc. that I used for my F100. In a camera store a while back I was looking at a D610 and talking to a sales person. He said that my lenses would not work as well (be as sharp) as the newer lenses which are made specifically for Digital Cameras. He said it was because the older coatings weren't as good for digital cameras as the newer lenses, and said something about reflected light being "off" with these lenses compared to the new DSLR ones.

I also read something similar somewhere that mentioned part of the reason being that the sensor is "shinier" than the film surface, therefore the "reflection" is "off".

Any thoughts on this? I'd hate to think I have several thousands in lenses that won't work as well, but if that's the case I guess it's just the case. C'est La Vie.

How much difference do you folks think photographic quality will suffer using the older lenses?

Thanks much for any help you can give.

tc88

He's just trying to sell you more stuff. Of course, the newer coatings are better. But the question you need to ask yourself is whether your current lens are good enough. If you feel they are, then just use what you have.

WestEndBoy

I think that the camera salesman is selling you a bridge, or more lens he hopes.

Not sure of he exact model of the 85, but those other two lenses are in Nikon's lineup today and one is on my "to buy" list (the 17-35). Have lenses improved since then? Sure. Is it worth upgrading? Naw? Buy your D610 and you an use those lenses for the rest of your life. They are professional grade. Just like my 135 and 50mm mf, both 20ish years old and work great on my D800.

And lenses are not designed for digital cameras, digital cameras are designed for lenses (well, I am sure there are some minor design considerations, but when you have a $15,000 plus budget and don't have to make compromises, then we can talk about those issues and also better lenses. Hmmm....I spent over $10,000 this year alone, and I cannot think of any that matter).

So buy your D610 and maybe the 50m 1.4G or 58mm 1.4G if you want professional grade and put the money into good accessories, or lenses that do what your current setup can't (you have a hole in the 50ish range that may or may not matter depending on your subjects).

WestEndBoy

Or put the extra money into a D800. Or not, just buy the D610 and you are done. Those lenses were a very wise investment in your day. I would have envied them and your F100 (see my signature for what I bought back then, the F80 and 28-200). That 50mm manual focus and 135 that were in the lineup when you and I bought our Fs, I bought those "THIS YEAR" and if the 80-200 accepted an AF capable teleconverter, I might consider that over the brand new 70-200.

Ade

It is true that digital sensors are "shinier" than film, and yes the extra reflections can cause problems -- but only for very specific lens designs, in very specific conditions.

For Nikon, the issue mostly affects the older AF 50mm/1.8, when stopped down past f/8 in bright lighting conditions. Zoom lenses should be fine.

If you google for "Nikon purple spot" you can read many threads describing the issue.

Anyway don't sweat it, especially if you don't have the older 50mm/1.8. If you keep getting a big purple spot right in the middle of the frame, then it's time to upgrade.

sevencrossing

welcome to the digital age

Take a memory card and your glass to the shop
do some test shots with D610 with your glass and the modern equivalent
you may notice a difference, but lenses you have listed, were very good in their day and still are
only you can decide if the difference matters enough to buy new lenses

Msmoto

Take a look at his:
Nikkor - H 85mm f/1.8 from 1966 on a D4

http://www.flickr.com/photos/fantinesfotos/8706075576/sizes/o/in/set-72157630044833773/ - See more at: http://forum.nikonrumors.com/discussion/1714/nikkor-58mm-f1-4#Item_257

Photobug

Your lens will provide excellent pictures. Yes the newer lens include a Nano coating but the difference will be small. There would be times you could not tell a difference which lens was used. The salesman is trying to sell you more than you need but don't fall for that trap. Stick with your lens.

PB_PM

I agree with others, it's just the dealer trying to get you spend more money. You have some good lenses, don't listen to that person.

TaoTeJared

I also agree with everyone. Nothing to worry about.

I have seen some reflections (generally called ghosting - loss of contrast and bright lights reflecting like flairs) with older lenses and I found buying new multi-coated UV filters help quite a bit but I have only had to do that a few times.

NikonMick

I've mentioned before the Fred Miranda forum for people using manual focus Nikon glass with modern DSLRbodies but it's worth another shot.

Began in August 2010, has 3,500 pages most with images and discussion of lenses and technique, begins at:

http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/929565

and the most recent is at:

http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/929565/3503

Cheers

Mick

Ray610

That's pretty neat. MsMoto I do believe I could live with that, yes indeed. Thanks.

My Nikon Lenses
17-35 F2.8
AF 50D F1.8 (Will probably replace this with the 1.4G fairly quick.)
AF 85D F1.4
105 F2.8 Macro
AFS 80-200 F2.8

Thanks, folks.

heartyfisher

Thats all good glass .. should not be a big issue.. however the main issue with the "shiny" digital sensor is the reflective surface of the sensor compared to film which does not reflect like a mirror but more like a matte surface. The reason/issue with the reflective mirror like sensor is that with most of the old lenses the last lense element closest to the sensor was flat ie it was also a mirror.. so you have 2 mirrors facing each other ! as you can imagine what a fun time images have bouncing between them 2 mirrors ! :-) the new "digital" lenses have a better coating on that last surface to stop this image "ping-pong" and also that last surface is no longer flat but concave to make sure the light gets deflected away and no longer bounce around. have a look at the last element of your lenses and see if its a flat surface.