Last weekend I took some photographs with my Nikon D800 and the Sigma 18 - 35mm f1.8 lens. It was just a quick play around and there was no intention to carry out any testing on the lens. I haven't used this lens/ camera combination previously. I normally use that lens on my D300 or D200.
I posted a link to some photographs on the blog yesterday. I was asked to photograph a flat surface at ISO 100 and at f10. I have done this.
For those interested here are the links to the photographs on Flickr: -
It's a DX lens, so kind of wasted on a D800. Instead of 36mp files you're getting files around 16mp. If you're cool with that, fine, but the lens is made to be used with cameras like the D7100 since it's a fairly large aperture lens and might need some extra calibration that you can't get on the DX cameras down the line.
I'd go a step further and say, it's a lens for Canon because the AF of D7100 (same as D800) makes it very difficult to focus properly. Canon's 70D AF is clearly superior with that combination. In lowlight conditions one can't benefit of all resolution since the D7100 has from ISO 1600 increasing noise. While in ISO between 100 and 400 the lens shines wide open. So, it's not that much of a waste on a D800: AF is the same (second or third best) and noise is lower than on the high pixel density 24MP sensor - in low light conditions. If you use it in bright daylight / low ISO you'd see a bit more sharpness when the D7100 is attached.
It's a pain to calibrate because of that Nikon AF. Good thing, it is pretty good out of the box. And getting a huge enough target wide angle, is another challenge. But in LiveView you'll see the sharpness very close to 35/1.4 Art.
The dock just increases the work. 4 distances, 4 focal lengths, each passing at each point 5-6 pictures = 96 pictures per pass. And all that with different AFMA values. If you're quick, you're done in half day, but the result will remain unreliable because of AF faults.
I know what you mean about calibrating it. Having said that I rather like the fact that it is possible to calibrate the lens at different focal lengths.
I was out and about playing around with the lens yesterday evening. It was a typical Glasgow day, totally overcast and very dull. On the D800 this lens does not perform as well as on the D300. I was very surprised. Nothing wrong with the sharpness, it was the fact that the camera kept wanting to force me to open up the aperture! I also kept forgetting that the image is confined to that little black box that you see looking through the view finder. Focus speed with the lens was very good.
PitchBlack, I am not so sure the lens is wasted on the D800. I like the look of images that this lens gives. Having said that, I am playing around (photography is a hobby for me and not a profession).
Edited for typering errurrs
Post edited by Hval on
Cheers,
Hval ____________________
Owner of an extremely high quality Leica Lens Cleaning Cloth
@Hval In general I set up first the AFMA of the camera for infinity. after that I use the dock, if closer distances need a bit fine adjustment. Although I use LesnAlign + focustune, I recheck after the focus test-series and most of the time I need to adjust again. In close distance, I get more keepers by using AF-C because of moving my body, while at farer distances AF-S shows better results. For instance, the flowers in front of the wall are not as sharp as the lens could perform, but my impression might be wrong.
And all Sigma lenses let pass more light in and therefore look brighter at the same manual settings than a Nikon lens.
No, you are correct. The image is not as sharp as it could be. Part of that problem is that I have naturally shaky hands.
I also use Lens Align. If you look in my albums you should see a few when I am testing this lens with my Nikon D300.
Thanks for your information, it is much appreciated. My next lens is going to be the Sigma 180mm f2.8 macro lens. That should make macro photography somewhat easier.
Cheers,
Hval ____________________
Owner of an extremely high quality Leica Lens Cleaning Cloth
No, you are correct. The image is not as sharp as it could be. Part of that problem is that I have naturally shaky hands.
My next lens is going to be the Sigma 180mm f2.8 macro lens. That should make macro photography somewhat easier.
Why will the longer lens make macro easier? I also have shaky hands now and have found that the only way to get good results is a tripod. Do you intend to use flash on your macro shots?
For some reason I prefer to take macro photographs slightly further away than many. I also find that a longer range macro lens is better for those creepy crawly things, and flying insects. A lot of my macro photographs will be outside. Other advantages are obviously being less likely to block the light on the subject, plus the angle of view, and finally the use of a flash means that the lens doesn't obscure the flash.
For the past few years my wife, who works full time, is studying an MSc. where I assist by taking photographs for her. The range of topics is fascinating; from insects & plants to landscapes & Birds in Flight (just don't ask me to photograph swallows).
Most of the time I do not use a flash. Mainly because I am so crap at using them. This will have to change. I have a Speedlight SB800 and a Speedlight SB910. I also have Aputure Trigmaster Plusses, plus a Off camera flash synch cable. I have used all of them successfully, just not as well as I would like. I actually need someone to teach me and to hit me when I get something wrong. I would teach myself except for one thing. I am currently off work ill (which is why the photographs the past few days). One of the side effects is a poor memory & a total lack of desire to do anything. That's why the teaching method mentioned.
I have a tripod and a rather interesting head that I do not like. I currently carry out photo stacking photography using CamRanger. An interesting way of doing it in that the camera stays in place and the focal point changes in equal steps. I intend to spend some money purchasing some Really Right Stuff products to assist me in my photography. My shopping list for Really Right Stuff is currently something like this....
L bracket for D800 L bracket for D9300 Plate for Sigma 180mm f2.8 macro lens - my next lens Plate for 300mm f2.8 Plate for 70-200mm f2.8 BH-55 PCLR Ballhead Tripod leveling base - Do not know which one to go for. Focus Rails (B150-B). Do I need the B2 LMT with this for the Sigma 180mm?
I suspect I am missing stuff that will let this lot work together.
Cheers,
Hval ____________________
Owner of an extremely high quality Leica Lens Cleaning Cloth
The reason I asked is because the longer lens will be harder to hold steady than a shorter one and also harder to light well using flash. The best macro people use normal to wide macro lenses and improvise a softbox to wrap the light right around the subject right up close. Part of your ordinary results with flash maybe because you are not up close and personal with your subjects. If you can't bring yourself to get close, I would consider that before you spend any money on close up gear.
So you don't use flash - that's different - and hand holding a 600mm means you don't shake like I do! BTW calling that a macro shot means you must have a 6" x 4" sensor as macro starts at 1:1... :P
Comments
It's a pain to calibrate because of that Nikon AF. Good thing, it is pretty good out of the box. And getting a huge enough target wide angle, is another challenge. But in LiveView you'll see the sharpness very close to 35/1.4 Art.
The dock just increases the work. 4 distances, 4 focal lengths, each passing at each point 5-6 pictures = 96 pictures per pass. And all that with different AFMA values. If you're quick, you're done in half day, but the result will remain unreliable because of AF faults.
I know what you mean about calibrating it. Having said that I rather like the fact that it is possible to calibrate the lens at different focal lengths.
I was out and about playing around with the lens yesterday evening. It was a typical Glasgow day, totally overcast and very dull. On the D800 this lens does not perform as well as on the D300. I was very surprised. Nothing wrong with the sharpness, it was the fact that the camera kept wanting to force me to open up the aperture! I also kept forgetting that the image is confined to that little black box that you see looking through the view finder. Focus speed with the lens was very good.
PitchBlack,
I am not so sure the lens is wasted on the D800. I like the look of images that this lens gives. Having said that, I am playing around (photography is a hobby for me and not a profession).
Edited for typering errurrs
Cheers,
Hval
____________________
Owner of an extremely high quality Leica Lens Cleaning Cloth
https://www.flickr.com/photos/hval01/sets/72157644625515579/
as before, images imported to Aperture and then exported to Flickr. In this case I did a quick adjustment for lighting and level.
Cheers,
Hval
____________________
Owner of an extremely high quality Leica Lens Cleaning Cloth
And all Sigma lenses let pass more light in and therefore look brighter at the same manual settings than a Nikon lens.
I also use Lens Align. If you look in my albums you should see a few when I am testing this lens with my Nikon D300.
Thanks for your information, it is much appreciated. My next lens is going to be the Sigma 180mm f2.8 macro lens. That should make macro photography somewhat easier.
Cheers,
Hval
____________________
Owner of an extremely high quality Leica Lens Cleaning Cloth
For the past few years my wife, who works full time, is studying an MSc. where I assist by taking photographs for her. The range of topics is fascinating; from insects & plants to landscapes & Birds in Flight (just don't ask me to photograph swallows).
Most of the time I do not use a flash. Mainly because I am so crap at using them. This will have to change. I have a Speedlight SB800 and a Speedlight SB910. I also have Aputure Trigmaster Plusses, plus a Off camera flash synch cable. I have used all of them successfully, just not as well as I would like. I actually need someone to teach me and to hit me when I get something wrong. I would teach myself except for one thing. I am currently off work ill (which is why the photographs the past few days). One of the side effects is a poor memory & a total lack of desire to do anything. That's why the teaching method mentioned.
I have a tripod and a rather interesting head that I do not like. I currently carry out photo stacking photography using CamRanger. An interesting way of doing it in that the camera stays in place and the focal point changes in equal steps. I intend to spend some money purchasing some Really Right Stuff products to assist me in my photography. My shopping list for Really Right Stuff is currently something like this....
L bracket for D800
L bracket for D9300
Plate for Sigma 180mm f2.8 macro lens - my next lens
Plate for 300mm f2.8
Plate for 70-200mm f2.8
BH-55 PCLR Ballhead
Tripod leveling base - Do not know which one to go for.
Focus Rails (B150-B). Do I need the B2 LMT with this for the Sigma 180mm?
I suspect I am missing stuff that will let this lot work together.
Cheers,
Hval
____________________
Owner of an extremely high quality Leica Lens Cleaning Cloth
Anyway, I'm off topic. ">
A 600mm macro photograph for you from last Saturday. :-)
Edited to remove spurious html waffle.
Cheers,
Hval
____________________
Owner of an extremely high quality Leica Lens Cleaning Cloth
I like your humour. Thank you.
Spraynpray,
I cheated. I used my manfrotto monopod with fluid head. Funnily enough, the new Nikon D9300 I am testing comes with a 6" x 4" sensor
Cheers,
Hval
____________________
Owner of an extremely high quality Leica Lens Cleaning Cloth