I need a printer that will give me prints fast that I can handle straight away and so I'm thinking Dye-sub or Laser but I have only ever used ink jet before and so I need some help. How many dpi do I need for good (maybe not 'gallery') quality A4 prints? What are the advantages of one over the other?
I have been handling some prints recently where there is a clearly defined physical 'step' at transitions between colours and solid blacks - what print technology are they? Dye-sub?
Seems there are no bricks and mortar printer shops around here to get advice on and the on-line people just see me as spam fodder.
Always learning.
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eg http://www.photographyshow.com/
http://www.forwardevents.co.uk/
@sevencrossing: I need to move very quickly so May is no good and there aren't any printer suppliers at Photovision unfortunately.
Has anybody got a dye-sub or laser and care to share pro's and con's?
Had a look at the Calumet site @sevencrossing - not enough info, but it's a start - I'll give them a call to discuss more details. Thanks.
the ASK4000 has 300 dpi https://www.calphoto.co.uk/product/fujifilm-ask4000-thermal-printer/129-122A/
From HP's website: "One of the functions of the firmware in HP Color LaserJet printers is to break up continuous tone images into patterns of tiny dots called halftone cells." Similarly, ink-jets use a pattern of "dots," whereas dye-sublimation printers are true continuous-tone printers. The comparison of DPI between lasers, ink-jets, and dye-subs is a bit spurious, since you're comparing discrete-color (i.e., half-tone) printers with a continuous-tone printer. A comparatively "low-resolution" dye-sub (e.g., 300DPI), actually looks extremely good.
Hopefully, "TrapperJohn," from DPreview won't mind me quoting him here, since he says it better than I could:
"A dye-sub printer is also called a continuous-tone printer, in that each pixel in the 300x300 [matrix] is a unique color, produced by layering translucent spots of CMYK on top of each other.
"Inkjets, which are halftone rather than continuous-tone, do the same by mixing dots of CMYK next to each other to simulate the desired color.
"So while a 1200x1200 inkjet might seem to be higher 'resolution' than a 300x300 dye-sub continuous-tone printer, the inkjet uses a 16x16 matrix of adjacent dots to do what the dye-sub printer does with one dot. In that respect, the inkjet has a lower pel (printable element, the smallest unit of a unique color) density than the dye-sub, even though it appears to be much higher by raw specs." --TrapperJohn, from DPreview.
So, at least for me personally, dye-subs are my printer of choice, and are the best printer for my needs. One neat thing about dye-subs is their fixed cost. It costs the same to print an entire page of "red" as it does to print a rainbow, or a page of "black." Consumables are a bit on the pricey side, however. Here's a summary of benefits:
Dye-sublimation printer benefits:
• True continuous-tone.
• Excellent permanence.
• Fixed-cost per print.
• "Dry" printing process; prints are immediately water-resistant.
• Speed: DNP DS80 can print an 8" x 12" x 600DPI print in 35 seconds.
What are the prints used for? Family/friends, or business sales? How much are you looking to spend? $100, $1,000 or $3000? What type of volume at different sizes?
There are major, major differences especially when it comes to paying for media. Ribbon & Paper depending on the Dye-sub can be $100-$300 per roll (depending on paper size etc.)
On one end of the spectrum or Dye-sub or Thermal printers are the Canon Selphy (>$100) and at the pro end are the Fujifilm, HiTi and DNPs that are $700-4,000.
Laser printers are terrible photo printers for business prints - basically you never should use one unless it is for reference prints on a disk. Now if it is just for sharing with family, they are great and cheap. But you should never think they are a option for true photo printing.
I'm looking at a Dye-Sub for sales since most of my stuff is 4x6, 5x7s, and 8x10s but even at those, the volume to offset just using AdoramaPix (and others) for sales is quite high. My family stuff? Walgreens prints are quite good, quick, cheap, and are perfect for family and friends
I am looking at using it for event work and would need a print every couple of minutes for 3-4 hours. The quality I've seen is very good, but I don't know what printer they were printed on let alone what dpi they are.
OK, at least I know lasers are out then.
Thanks guys.
The thing was the bomb, really, and let's be honest, no one noticed the not-top-notch quality of the prints. A fun job, too, because:
• it's very rewarding to have lighting and everything set up in a way where you get perfect OOC results,
• it's a lot of fun to work with non-professionals like they're professionals (and they actually play along)
• the people are totally excited to see how f'ing hot they look on the images
• it can pay quite well, too
The only important thing is to calibrate the printer before (there's online services for this), this makes everything a little more hassle-free for you. It's about 35 Euros here in Germany.
Another thing that's easy to do but kicks the client experience up by 100% is to connect a large screen to your laptop and use it in non-synced mode to always display the selected image of your CaptureOne/LR/Aperture software. This way, people can always see the last image taken (or in print).
Any idea of the printed cost per A4 image?
What really steps up the quality is using the calibration profile, as it enables you to get the colors right (and bright). Too dark shadows, too dull colors happen easily and are a real show stopper. Of course it doesn't improve sharpness or anything, but it's absolutely sufficient for instant print use.
Was just thinking, cost wise it should be easy to calculate, because you have a fixed amount of prints per roll of that wax stuff, so you just divide the price of the roll by that, and add the cost of the paper.
What's your target group, I mean who should take those prints home?
@Ironheart: I think that is the last nail in the lid for laser. Dye-sub it is.
Thanks guys.
Couldn't find any "high-end" models, though, can someone point me to them? From what I've seen, my guess is that they actually don't improve in print quality, but only in speed and handling. The instant prints you get from machines in shops here are actually the same quality as what I got from the Selphy.
I've found a shop in London so I'm going there to look at the range.
For the events I do, I have given out simple business cards to push people to my website and sell them prints there. I have often looked at on site printing but working as a one-man shop, babysitting a printer just isn't in my mind. I am working on a iPad kiosk thing that may eventually get rolling, but without wifi in the camera's and the large D800 files, the tech just hasn't improved enough yet for me to take a serious look at it. By no means have I said that to deter you from going down the path you are, just to say what my experience has been.
I wouldn't worry about the DPI of everything for event photography - the expectations are never high and all Sub-dye printers do an excellent job.
but I found having a really first class sales assistant vital
@Bokeh_Hunter: I totally agree about a spare printer at $100 but 6x4's are no good, I need 10x8. As for wi-fi, I'd rather not. A long USB lead will be more reliable.
love the green screen, presumably they cant pinch your carefully set up shot with a smart phone
Calumet attained their usual level of performance - I rang up, the guy was busy, left my number, no call back. That was two days ago now.