As santa threw me a D750, I am out of Nikon credits for a new lens for my night shooting. Anybody here have any experience of any old manual focus lenses - say 14-20mm f1.4-f2.0?
@Bokeh Hunter or
@Msmoto (to name but two) may have experience that would help me in my quest?
Cheers guys.
Always learning.
Comments
I may convert it myself....and check it out.....
I just picked up a used AF 24mm F2.8 (non-D) for $193 with the hood. Not a bad deal, you just have to do some hunting.
@Msmoto: So what needs to be 'converted'? I thought all old lenses could be used on the modern bodies. Sorry, I am a novice at all that because I've never tried it before.
@Pistnbroke: Really? Prime sharp? I can't say I've ever heard of it but I'll have a look. at f 2.8 it isn't as fast as I'd hoped but it depends on the price.
I think I will only use an ultrawide for night work in the main and when I use my 11-16/2.8 Tokina on my D7100, it tends to be most often on 11mm so I think 14mm - ish would be best.
Leica was the exception, Summicrons (F2) and Summilux (F1.4) were sharp wide open. This helped create the Leica mystique.
... H
Nikon N90s, F100, F, lots of Leica M digital and film stuff.
Being a photographer is a lot like being a Christian: Some people look at you funny but do not see the amazing beauty all around them - heartyfisher.
However, If you are willing to save even more...the 14-24 2.8 is truly the best ultra-wide angle lens you can mount on your D750. If you have a shop you can rent it from...do it and see for yourself.
I tried the 11-16 at 16 with auto crop mode turned off and it works! There is a tiny amount of vignetting in the corners, but at least I have a 16mm f2.8 for night shots until the Nikon credits build up again. If it turns out it is not good enough, there is always DX mode as @heartyfisher says. It is a good stop slower than I'd like though.
With reference to absolute sharpness @PitchBlack, I don't know how much night sky you do, but I find sharpness takes a dive when there aren't many photons around so I wonder how much absolute sharpness difference I would be able to see. Not a lot I suspect. The new 20 f1.8 is great although I'd probably prefer 14 or 16mm if they made one.
@PB_PM thanks, I get it now. I think it would only be worth shelling out if you actually owned the lens given the cost of buying then converting one.
@Golf007sd: Yeah, the 14-24 really pulls at me. Given the amount of use it would get, I think it will be after a Sigma 35 Art and hopefully a 24-70 with VRIII. :P One day, one day.
How does the Rokinon 14mm f2.8 do given what my usage would be? I can get one of those new and cheap. I think I remember they are surprisingly good? They are only £240 new here.
It is the coupling ring which needs to be cut down on the older lenses so as to accommodate the new body style. This shows my old NIKKOR-P Auto 1:4.5 f=300mm from the 1960's and one can see how it has been cut back.
Then, in the camera one sets up the info for using a non-CPU lens and the camera can tell what the f/stop is that was used for the exposure. One changes f/stop on these lenses by turning the ring. And, of course focus is the same way, turning the ring.
I must have really beaten my equipment up n those days...LOL
Only possible negative about it is distortion. Distortion isn't particularly strong, it isn't noticeable for landscapes, but its complex so its probably not a perfect lens for architectural work where every single line in the whole frame has to be 100% perfectly straight.
D3 • D750 • 14-24mm f2.8 • 35mm f1.4A • PC-E 45mm f2.8 • 50mm f1.8G • AF-D 85mm f1.4 • ZF.2 100mm f2 • 200mm f2 VR2
another el chepo is the Cosina 19-35...