Cheap way of getting a sharp ultrawide fast prime?

spraynprayspraynpray Posts: 6,409Moderator
edited November 2014 in Nikon Lenses
As santa threw me a D750, I am out of Nikon credits for a new lens for my night shooting. Anybody here have any experience of any old manual focus lenses - say 14-20mm f1.4-f2.0? @Bokeh Hunter or @Msmoto (to name but two) may have experience that would help me in my quest?

Cheers guys.
Always learning.

Comments

  • PistnbrokePistnbroke Posts: 2,246Member
    edited November 2014
    Well old yes cheap yes sigma 17-35 f 2.8 D its as sharp as your shapen slider will go !!
    Post edited by Pistnbroke on
  • Golf007sdGolf007sd Posts: 2,840Moderator
    @Pistnbroke: Andrew is looking for a fast prime.
    D4 & D7000 | Nikon Holy Trinity Set + 105 2.8 Mico + 200 F2 VR II | 300 2.8G VR II, 10.5 Fish-eye, 24 & 50 1.4G, 35 & 85 1.8G, 18-200 3.5-5.6 VR I SB-400 & 700 | TC 1.4E III, 1.7 & 2.0E III, 1.7 | Sigma 35 & 50 1.4 DG HSM | RRS Ballhead & Tripods Gear | Gitzo Monopod | Lowepro Gear | HDR via Promote Control System |
  • MsmotoMsmoto Posts: 5,396Moderator
    My guess is that any of the old lenses would be so individually judged based upon condition that I have no experience. The NIKKOR-N Auto 1:2.8 f=24mm I have from the 1960's has not been converted for use on the modern bodies, so i cannot say how sharp it is.

    I may convert it myself....and check it out.....
    Msmoto, mod
  • PB_PMPB_PM Posts: 4,337Member
    edited November 2014
    @spraynpray Most of the old manual focus wide angle lenses aren't much less expensive than the AF equivalents these days. You be looking at $350 USD or more for the 20mm F2.8 AIS for example, while a used AF model go for around $400 USD.

    I just picked up a used AF 24mm F2.8 (non-D) for $193 with the hood. Not a bad deal, you just have to do some hunting.
    Post edited by PB_PM on
    If I take a good photo it's not my camera's fault.
  • spraynprayspraynpray Posts: 6,409Moderator
    @PB_PM: Yee-ouch that is more expensive than I expected for sure. I was hoping for $100 @-) . At those prices, I'd rather save up for a new model f1.8

    @Msmoto: So what needs to be 'converted'? I thought all old lenses could be used on the modern bodies. Sorry, I am a novice at all that because I've never tried it before.

    @Pistnbroke: Really? Prime sharp? I can't say I've ever heard of it but I'll have a look. at f 2.8 it isn't as fast as I'd hoped but it depends on the price.

    I think I will only use an ultrawide for night work in the main and when I use my 11-16/2.8 Tokina on my D7100, it tends to be most often on 11mm so I think 14mm - ish would be best.
    Always learning.
  • haroldpharoldp Posts: 984Member
    I don't really think there are any older fast primes that are ultrasharp. sharpness wide open is a relatively new thing and I would say pretty close to 100% of older fast primes need to be stopped down to around 2.8 to really start being sharp—at least that's been my experience. I'm open to being proven wrong, though.
    You are generally correct.
    Leica was the exception, Summicrons (F2) and Summilux (F1.4) were sharp wide open. This helped create the Leica mystique.

    ... H

    D810, D3x, 14-24/2.8, 50/1.4D, 24-70/2.8, 24-120/4 VR, 70-200/2.8 VR1, 80-400 G, 200-400/4 VR1, 400/2.8 ED VR G, 105/2 DC, 17-55/2.8.
    Nikon N90s, F100, F, lots of Leica M digital and film stuff.

  • heartyfisherheartyfisher Posts: 3,181Member
    edited November 2014
    You can use the 11-16 on your D750. At 16mm its got FX coverage, I understand. Dont know the IQ but people say its OK. Worth trying ? I use my 12-24 dx on my D610 it works from 18-24. IQ at the far corners is not good but it works for general ultra wide angle. good for small prints. If I want good IQ then I use it in DX mode. Its still an ultra wide in DX! I would be curious if the 1.2 crop mode of the D750 would remove most of the edge blur.
    Post edited by heartyfisher on
    Moments of Light - D610 D7K S5pro 70-200f4 18-200 150f2.8 12-24 18-70 35-70f2.8 : C&C very welcome!
    Being a photographer is a lot like being a Christian: Some people look at you funny but do not see the amazing beauty all around them - heartyfisher.

  • PB_PMPB_PM Posts: 4,337Member
    edited November 2014

    So what needs to be 'converted'? I thought all old lenses could be used on the modern bodies. Sorry, I am a novice at all that because I've never tried it before.
    Non-AI lenses (all Nikkor lenses made before 1977, IIRC) used a different metering system, and have a solid part, while AI/AI-S and AF/AF-D lenses have a small tab which connectors to the metering tab on the body. The only current Nikon body compatible with all Nikkor lenses ever made is the Df. For use on other bodies most non-AI lenses must be AI'd, or in other words converted.
    Post edited by PB_PM on
    If I take a good photo it's not my camera's fault.
  • Golf007sdGolf007sd Posts: 2,840Moderator
    edited November 2014
    I do not know of any fast primes that will meet your $100 budget Andrew. My recommendation is to save up for the New 20 1.8G.

    However, If you are willing to save even more...the 14-24 2.8 is truly the best ultra-wide angle lens you can mount on your D750. If you have a shop you can rent it from...do it and see for yourself.
    Post edited by Golf007sd on
    D4 & D7000 | Nikon Holy Trinity Set + 105 2.8 Mico + 200 F2 VR II | 300 2.8G VR II, 10.5 Fish-eye, 24 & 50 1.4G, 35 & 85 1.8G, 18-200 3.5-5.6 VR I SB-400 & 700 | TC 1.4E III, 1.7 & 2.0E III, 1.7 | Sigma 35 & 50 1.4 DG HSM | RRS Ballhead & Tripods Gear | Gitzo Monopod | Lowepro Gear | HDR via Promote Control System |
  • spraynprayspraynpray Posts: 6,409Moderator
    Thanks to all yous guys.

    I tried the 11-16 at 16 with auto crop mode turned off and it works! There is a tiny amount of vignetting in the corners, but at least I have a 16mm f2.8 for night shots until the Nikon credits build up again. If it turns out it is not good enough, there is always DX mode as @heartyfisher says. It is a good stop slower than I'd like though.

    With reference to absolute sharpness @PitchBlack, I don't know how much night sky you do, but I find sharpness takes a dive when there aren't many photons around so I wonder how much absolute sharpness difference I would be able to see. Not a lot I suspect. The new 20 f1.8 is great although I'd probably prefer 14 or 16mm if they made one.

    @PB_PM thanks, I get it now. I think it would only be worth shelling out if you actually owned the lens given the cost of buying then converting one.

    @Golf007sd: Yeah, the 14-24 really pulls at me. Given the amount of use it would get, I think it will be after a Sigma 35 Art and hopefully a 24-70 with VRIII. :P One day, one day.

    How does the Rokinon 14mm f2.8 do given what my usage would be? I can get one of those new and cheap. I think I remember they are surprisingly good? They are only £240 new here.
    Always learning.
  • MsmotoMsmoto Posts: 5,396Moderator
    edited November 2014
    @spraynpray

    It is the coupling ring which needs to be cut down on the older lenses so as to accommodate the new body style. This shows my old NIKKOR-P Auto 1:4.5 f=300mm from the 1960's and one can see how it has been cut back.

    Nikkor Al Conversions 05.12.13-5

    Then, in the camera one sets up the info for using a non-CPU lens and the camera can tell what the f/stop is that was used for the exposure. One changes f/stop on these lenses by turning the ring. And, of course focus is the same way, turning the ring.

    I must have really beaten my equipment up n those days...LOL
    Post edited by Msmoto on
    Msmoto, mod
  • adsads Posts: 93Member


    How does the Rokinon 14mm f2.8 do given what my usage would be? I can get one of those new and cheap. I think I remember they are surprisingly good? They are only £240 new here.
    I have one and its a cracking lens. I got it for astro/milky way shots but its also great for daylight work. Manual focus, but the depth of field is so great its pretty hard to get anything out of focus :-)

    Only possible negative about it is distortion. Distortion isn't particularly strong, it isn't noticeable for landscapes, but its complex so its probably not a perfect lens for architectural work where every single line in the whole frame has to be 100% perfectly straight.
  • SquamishPhotoSquamishPhoto Posts: 608Member
    Getting a good copy is supposed to be the challenge with the Samyang/Rokinon. I almost got one a while back, but got scared off by stories of having to chase down 5 or 6 copies before a keeper was found.
    Mike
    D3 • D750 • 14-24mm f2.8 • 35mm f1.4A • PC-E 45mm f2.8 • 50mm f1.8G • AF-D 85mm f1.4 • ZF.2 100mm f2 • 200mm f2 VR2
  • PistnbrokePistnbroke Posts: 2,246Member
    edited November 2014
    Yes had the Samyang 14mm great but the copy I got did not have the 3 year guarantee ( grey) so I sent it back and bought elsewhere .A small amount of Zoom is what I need .
    another el chepo is the Cosina 19-35...
    Post edited by Pistnbroke on
  • spraynprayspraynpray Posts: 6,409Moderator
    Thanks Guys, I think I'll go with the Rokinon when funds allow.
    Always learning.
  • kenadamskenadams Posts: 222Member
    edited November 2014
    I bought a Tokina 24mm 2.8 AI for 60 bucks used. Now, I'm by no means a pro shooting for magazines, and to be fair, I haven't even had a chance to look at the pictures on a computer monitor closely. But the 100% check on the camera told me they were absolutely fine! It's almost as tiny as my Leica M-mount 50 f2, pretty decent mechanically and, from f4 on, ok optically. The Nikon 28 AI they had in store felt rather cheap in comparison.

    Post edited by kenadams on
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