It hit me today, I really don't need the 24MP D7100 to replace a D50. I'm after dynamic range, and the D7000 has that. I'd like to keep some resolution when I crop, and the D7000's 14MP will let me do that. Then, Amazon lowered their price for the D7000 to $484 - That's It!!! I sweet-talked my loving wife (it might help that she's semi-delirious with something flu-like) and she ordered it on her Amazon account.
With no current aspirations past doing some train photography, this investment just made sense.
Comments
I actually got introduced to DSLRs with my friend's D50, so I know how you feel. I also started with a D40 and migrated to the D7000, so you'll definitely be blown away by the camera, even if it's not the latest and greatest.
Be sure to show your pictures in the POTD thread and welcome to NRF!
I want to thank folks on this forum for helping me to shape my head on this. It came down to these considerations:
1. I'm not that serious about this (yet).
2. The D7000 does exactly what I'm after: a great sensor.
3. I'm gonna be 'welding' my 18-200 zoom to it. Don't need a lot of camera to accommodate that lens.
And, 4. $484 drilled through the 'impulse buy' glass floor.
I'll shoot with this for a couple of years, then decide if I'm serious enough to invest in full frame gear. I've got the lens kit from my old F2 Photomic (28, 50, 105mm) to convert and play with.
I have one question that I have been dying to ask. How did you come up with your handle? It makes me think of a Scotsmen that can't afford FX because he spends to much on scotch.
This is the second time in a couple of days that I have seen Pistnbroke make that comment about increasing the sharpness for D7000/D7100. Okay you two, how much should the sharpness be increased? 2 or 3 points or more?? I have a bunch of JPEG shooting to do and need some guidance.
|SB-800, Amaran Halo LED Ring light | MB-D16 grip| Gitzo GT3541 + RRS BH-55LR, Gitzo GM2942 + Sirui L-10 | RRS gear | Lowepro, ThinkTank, & Hoodman gear | BosStrap | Vello Freewave Plus wireless Remote, Leica Lens Cleaning Cloth |
|SB-800, Amaran Halo LED Ring light | MB-D16 grip| Gitzo GT3541 + RRS BH-55LR, Gitzo GM2942 + Sirui L-10 | RRS gear | Lowepro, ThinkTank, & Hoodman gear | BosStrap | Vello Freewave Plus wireless Remote, Leica Lens Cleaning Cloth |
GGS II LCD Optical Screen Protector for Nikon D7000 New
I prefer the http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/571417-REG/Giottos_SP8302L_SP8302_AEGIS_Professional_Glass.html
As for sharpness, I do my work in Photoshop CS and do little with Picture Control, except to flatten colors for video. Over sharpening can contribute to artifacts. Just saying.
My best.
Mike
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?Ntt=Vello+glass+for+D750&N=0&InitialSearch=yes&sts=ma&Top+Nav-Search=
Both are terrific and easy to apply and easy to clean. Much much better than the one used on the D90, D300, etc.
|SB-800, Amaran Halo LED Ring light | MB-D16 grip| Gitzo GT3541 + RRS BH-55LR, Gitzo GM2942 + Sirui L-10 | RRS gear | Lowepro, ThinkTank, & Hoodman gear | BosStrap | Vello Freewave Plus wireless Remote, Leica Lens Cleaning Cloth |
@ggbutcher don't worry about the one that came with the body. Get one of those we have recommended above and you will be far happier.
Using an overall sharpening tool is definitely novice territory. It works for a lot of images where most of the scene is pretty much clear and in focus, but as soon as parts of the scene goes out of focus its perhaps the worst option you can choose. I can certainly appreciate the need to minimize post production edits, but, as Mike said, very undesirable artifacts begin to appear when you apply a complete image parameter for sharpening. The solution for most of the images that fall into this category is selective sharpening with a small brush tool in PS, at least for me. So, Im not saying that you shouldn't utilize the clear time saving step for certain images that you're already shooting in JPEG, but its important to examine the content of the image carefully enough to recognize when you're actually doing damage to your image rather than accentuating it.
D3 • D750 • 14-24mm f2.8 • 35mm f1.4A • PC-E 45mm f2.8 • 50mm f1.8G • AF-D 85mm f1.4 • ZF.2 100mm f2 • 200mm f2 VR2
Change you mind or fine tune if you choose.
If you shoot in JPEG you don't have that choice and it isn't much work.
Do the AF fine tune. Mine was the worst body I've ever shot in terms of back focusing. There's software and all that, but I've used this moire method with good results. It's a little fussy, but have had success:
http://www.northlight-images.co.uk/article_pages/cameras/1ds3_af_micoadjustment.html
WRT AF, thanks @The_Other_Steve, for the moire test link. I don't see a focus problem in the few shots I've taken to date, but I'll check it anyway. Old eyes...