Someone on another forum alerted me to the Profoto HSS FAQ, where I posted this reply:
[Apparently,] there's a full-stop loss every time you double your shutter speed when employing HSS mode on the Profoto B1. If my math is correct, that's a total 5-stop loss from shooting at x-sync at 1/250th (1/1-power), to 1/8,000th (1/32nd-power).
Here's the complete entry from the Profoto HSS FAQ:
"What power outputs are available in HSS Mode?
To ensure a perfect exposure and a stable flash pulse, the B1 uses only the upper part of its power range when in HSS Mode. That is 7.0-10.0 for Canon and 8.0-10.0 for Nikon.
Know that one f-stop of flash light is lost for every doubling of the shutter speed. In other words, when shooting with the extremely short flash durations that Profoto HSS offers, the B1 will in most cases be used at its max or near max power."
If I'm interpreting Profoto's FAQ correctly, the B1's 500 Watt-seconds, less 5-stops, is only 15.6Ws when using a shutter speed of 1/8,000th at full-power. I suppose that's the reason for their statement, " . . . the B1 will in most cases be used at its max or near max power [when employing HSS]."
. . . PocketWizard tried to made it but , according to my experiment on Elinchrom Ranger RX , poor performance , loss of power and high vignetting . . .
I imagine that the flash duration on your Ranger is too short (do you have the 'A' or the 'S' head?). Long-tail strobes (i.e., strobes with long t.05 values) will fare much better with sync-optimized (e.g., "HyperSync") applications.
Here's a list of long-duration strobes which would should be more suitable for HyperSync applications (scroll down a bit):
Using the first firmware settings shown in the tests, you don't get any shutter-curtain shadow, all the way up to 1/8,000th. You do get a bit of uneven recorded flash exposure, but it typically goes unnoticed in most real-world applications.
That's why I loved my Nikon D70 until it had the CF card memory-interface problem (BLOD), and eventually bricked (which Nikon acknowledged and fixed, even if out of warranty, but I was too lazy to take it to Nikon at the time). I'd still kind of like to pick up a D70s or D40 someday for some casual high-speed sync shooting.
I really think the discontinued Speedotron Force 10s are great HyperSync-friendly strobes. Excellent output at 1,000Ws. I still see them on eBay fairly often. I think I paid about $600-$700 each for two open-box units. I've seen them selling used for even less.
Thanks for the kind words about the site! I still have a lot of work to do on it!
For this kind of stuff, the simpler solution is sometimes the better: If the sun is already that strong, just use a reflector. Done. A lot lighter and no power required. ;-)
People easily wince with continious high light of reflectors , flash help to get rid of that and , alongside , you may chose exactly what kint of light you want with your lightbox .
@FrenchRiviera: True for the squinting, very true in fact. As for the light modification, you can achieve many different characteristics with reflectors as well by choosing different surfaces, sizes and shapes. There's not much (most of the time: no) difference to classical light formers that you use on studio flashes.
Comments
[Apparently,] there's a full-stop loss every time you double your shutter speed when employing HSS mode on the Profoto B1. If my math is correct, that's a total 5-stop loss from shooting at x-sync at 1/250th (1/1-power), to 1/8,000th (1/32nd-power).
Here's the complete entry from the Profoto HSS FAQ:
"What power outputs are available in HSS Mode?
To ensure a perfect exposure and a stable flash pulse, the B1 uses only the upper part of its power range when in HSS Mode. That is 7.0-10.0 for Canon and 8.0-10.0 for Nikon.
Know that one f-stop of flash light is lost for every doubling of the shutter speed. In other words, when shooting with the extremely short flash durations that Profoto HSS offers, the B1 will in most cases be used at its max or near max power."
[Link to Profoto HSS FAQ: http://www.profoto.com/blog/off-camera-flash/profoto-hss-faq/]
If I'm interpreting Profoto's FAQ correctly, the B1's 500 Watt-seconds, less 5-stops, is only 15.6Ws when using a shutter speed of 1/8,000th at full-power. I suppose that's the reason for their statement, " . . . the B1 will in most cases be used at its max or near max power [when employing HSS]."
Anyhow , 500J is not enough if you want to use your flash as keylight on a bright day , 1200J is better
http://christophe-nober.photodeck.com
Here's a list of long-duration strobes which would should be more suitable for HyperSync applications (scroll down a bit):
http://lightbasics.com/pocketwizard-hypersync-long-duration-flash-tests/
Here's some tests I did using a 150Ws Quantum Qflash (t.05 - 1/300th @ maximum power):
http://lightbasics.com/hypersync-test-series-1-nikon-d800e-quantum-qflash/
Here's another test series using a 1,000Ws Speedotron Force 10 monolight (t.05 = 1/850th, constant at all power levels):
http://lightbasics.com/hypersync-test-series-2-nikon-d800e-speedotron-force-10/
Using the first firmware settings shown in the tests, you don't get any shutter-curtain shadow, all the way up to 1/8,000th. You do get a bit of uneven recorded flash exposure, but it typically goes unnoticed in most real-world applications.
Still some light but visible vignetting :-/
And on other side , I really need 1000J to use flash as key light to get this look
http://christophe-nober.photodeck.com/-/galleries/portraits/-/medias/71c22cac-62fe-4e18-9367-eccd56e6067c-marinne-plage-de-st-aygulf
Thank you for your help , your site is a great , very instructive
http://christophe-nober.photodeck.com
http://christophe-nober.photodeck.com
I really think the discontinued Speedotron Force 10s are great HyperSync-friendly strobes. Excellent output at 1,000Ws. I still see them on eBay fairly often. I think I paid about $600-$700 each for two open-box units. I've seen them selling used for even less.
Thanks for the kind words about the site! I still have a lot of work to do on it!
As you can see on studio460 tests
http://lightbasics.com/pocketwizard-hypersync-long-duration-flash-tests/
Top of the image is much darker then bottom
http://christophe-nober.photodeck.com
That would be far more simple : no more X-sync speed
Tendency may be more electronic , less mechanics parts in cameras like mirrorless , lower prices , longer life
http://christophe-nober.photodeck.com
http://christophe-nober.photodeck.com
http://christophe-nober.photodeck.com
I mean :
1/ it would be so easy for me if I could do the job with reflectors
2/ of course models Could wear sunglasses to avoid to make a face but that´s not compatible with portraits I like
http://christophe-nober.photodeck.com