In our current state of affairs with the D600 body becoming a frustrating issue and not being well handled in the opinion of some, I have seen a few folks looking at the D800. From my perspective, the only real drawback is in the size of the files.
14-bit lossless compressed on FX is 41.3 MB
12-bit lossless compressed on FX is 32.4 MB
JPEG fine (L) on FX is 16.3 MB
14-bit lossless compressed on DX is 18.6 MB
12-bit lossless compressed on DX is 14.9 MB
JPEG fine (L) on DX is 8 MB
My question is....what functional end product difference is there in a 12-bit vs. a 14-bit lossless compressed image? If there are examples, please post a link to something like full size images on Flickr or elsewhere rather than fill the pages with small images we cannot tell mush about. Let's get ready to Rumble....
Msmoto, mod
Comments
Do you notice those things in most images? No. In high contrast situations, where highlight and shadow recovery are important, will you notice? Yup. Is the extra file size worth it? Depends on how you shoot, and under what conditions.
The different bit rates have no effect on resolution, so asking for photo samples, converted to JPEGs, is pointless. You'd notice the difference in prints, but to point out the difference in two jpegs is minimal at best, due to the loss of data in jpeg conversion.
The amount of information being read by my SSD, a 40MB file vs one that is 20-25MB is so small it is not even worth trying to calculate the milliseconds I lose. However, the CPU cycle in decompressing and having it load in LR is noticeable.
As for the rest - speed at import, speed at post process: nobody is pressuring me. So, amateurs looking for a D800 instead of D600 are still not consuming half a dozen HDs a week. But shooting with this beast can also be fun in caring for single shots instead of several hundreds.
Being a photographer is a lot like being a Christian: Some people look at you funny but do not see the amazing beauty all around them - heartyfisher.
The topic at hand, does provide good food-for-thought. I just want to store as much information on my memory card as possible when taking an image. Speed and storage are important but the raw data in far more important to me.
As noted, with lossless compressed, you don't loose anything. The 14bit uncompressed files give more benefit than shooting 12bit uncompressed for example.
If one thinks that FX is any better than DX (and most do think dynamic range and color response increases), the magnitude from 12bit to 14bit is far beyond DX to FX. ;-)
The proof is in post processing, in which many folks don't get their toes wet. One can use a single image well exposed image and get a multiple HDR image from a 14bit RAW image with layers in CS6 pulling ±5 stops in .01 steps, rather impressive, and that's from one exposure.
The files are large for a reason, and whether one will be willing to sign up for it is something else.
There are some 'film' affectionados who take their film to labs or go into the darkroom where they soup up their film and try to manipulate in the enlarger and dodge and burn the negative on the paper. Photoshop isn't much different - just cleaner and easier on the fingernails, maybe a tad harder to learn, but infinitely more rewarding.
My best,
Mike
I run the 14 bit file size on my D800E. My theory is that hard disks are cheap and getting cheaper (and smaller) every year.
Once you shoot a picture in 12 bit you are locked into 12 bit forever...
Denver Shooter
here's a good article about it already: http://www.earthboundlight.com/phototips/nikon-d300-d3-14-bit-versus-12-bit.html
Bottom line, it won't make a difference for 99% of photographers, other than filling up your hard drive and slowing down your fps speed. For most people, just use 12 bit lossless compressed and stop worrying about it.
As for Mikes recommendation, each to his or her own. Many photographer also use PS to add filters as well in post, I on the other hand have filters that I use on the lens as I take the shot.
In the end if the photographer is happy, as well as those he or she shares it with...that is all that counts.
@TC88, I'll post something soon to show you how to do that with RAW and layers in CS6 and if you are using Adobe Elements 10 you can do a variation of it, too, just not as elegant nor quite as extreme. Some people (I would be one) like to put multiple layers so as to add or subtract depth to the photograph, but sometimes just two layers with variance in grays will do.
@Gofl007sd, you're exactly right. To each his own - There's a lot of Crayolas in the carton for a reason. CS6 has an "Automate to HDR" under File that allows for a slew of files to automatically create an HDR file that can be wickered with into a PSD format with each of the files separately adjusted in post.
Seeing what you shoot before you push the shutter release helps. You can add the light where you need it so you don't have to add or subtract so much light. Ansel taught me that much. ;-)
My best,
Mike
My HDR workflow at this moment in time, because software become better and better:
Camera set to 14-bit, the only reason, it gives me the most information.
PP in Lightroom.
Combine them in PS-CS5.5 in 32bit, (PS always gives me the best alignment).
Then I go directly to HDR Efex Pro, for me far the best HDR program.
Save it as a -16bit- TIF in Lightroom and get an enormous dynamic range to play with.
Works pretty well.
@ MikeGunter I'am curious to your - RAW and layers - post.
With my D800 the only thing I can tell, is bringing back highlights and shadows (more highlights though) with the 14bit over the 12. Snow this winter is something I have noticed the 14bit helped. Not by much, but enough that I just leave in on 14bit and call it good and something I don't need to worry about. Honestly I'm not sure I could even post something as once the image compresses to jpeg, I don't think you could see the difference at all, but it is there.