I think this is more of a personal taste thing. I wouldn't worry about what others think, if u think the green is over-saturated, then just add a little desaturation to the green to your default develop settings.
In LR 4.3 I have not found the greens to be particularly over saturated, but almost any bright red will very quickly block up if sat and vibrance are increased in the overall photo. Quite often I will brush some desaturation inot the reds, then increase the vibrance and saturation overall.
I believe when a photo is entered into the "develop" window, the color balance is not set in the middle but is dependent on the data in the image. All the other sliders are in neutral position.
New "brush" windows need to be reset each time as I use the tools. I find this helpful as in brushing effects into an area, IMO it works best to use a very small amount and repeat two or three times for the final effect.
@ sevencrossing: shooting RAW, all in-camera post-processing set to 0, PictureControl Standard 1, auto-WB. My understanding (which may be incorrect) is that LR does not take in-camera settings into account for RAW files (except for WB).
And of course, my screens are calibrated (Spyder4 Pro), and all controls centered.
I just compared, on the same screen, the unedited picture in LR 4.3 then in CNX2, and there is a difference, actually: blues are more saturated in CNX2, while greens are more saturated in LR. So basically, you can see it on a picture with both grass and sky. Now that I check, the difference in sky color can be staggering. I have a really good example (actually, the picture is a reject, but the difference in colors is showing quite clearly), I'll try to post it later.
@ Gab: I agree, I was just wondering if there was a consensus on a "default green offset" of some sort, so as to apply it systematically on import.
In lightroom check your "camera calibration" drop down. Then Profile corrections. You probably inadvertently changed something there, or have some sort of preset assigned during import.
In lightroom check your "camera calibration" drop down. Then Profile corrections. You probably inadvertently changed something there, or have some sort of preset assigned during import.
Checked it too, it's Adobe Standard, all zeroed-out.
I guess it could have something to do with the way each software translates the bayer filtration into a picture (and so would be different for each sensor, I suppose).
EDIT: just stumbled upon an article by Thom Hogan (www.bythom.com), titled "The Kermit Syndrome", about this very "issue". In particular, he says the following:
Oh, but wait, what raw converter did you use? Let me guess: Adobe. Let me guess further: you used the Adobe Standard Camera Profile. Go back to the Basic tab in Adobe Raw Converter. Notice that second slider under White Balance? Tint is labeled Green at the left side, Magenta at the right. Do you have a significantly negative number there? Yep, you've got a green image. I've learned to mistrust Adobe's White Balance interpretation if I'm seeing large numbers in the Tint section. (And don't get me started on the over-abundance of Orange saturation in most Adobe conversions.)
I'm tempted to say that my Nikon DSLRs are more of a Fozzie Bear: they're always joking around with focus and my Nikkor lenses tend to make wocka wocka noises (buh-duh-bump). But my Nikon DSLRs are definitely not Kermits. Neither are yours.
I dislike adobe immensely for color. There is a guy that sells digital color tools that will let the D7000 emulate the contrast and colors of the D2X which I like for CS6. I think the company is called PS Kiss, and expect there are others as well. I found these recently, and really like the portrait mode. I always thought the D2X in portrait mode, II, and standard where about as good as it could get for my eyes.
If you take a look at the shot of one of my dogs I took yesterday with the V1 that is the portrait setting for the DX2 with zero tweaking and no sharpening, noise reduction etc at the bottom of page 3 in the top thread comparing various small cameras. Good luck, I like the V1 even more having found this solution, and it works equally well for on my D7000. Ignore his other products if you have NIK, OnOne, or Topaz.
Be sure to click to see the dogs head shot at 100 percent to see the Margaret's eyes which show how good the blacks are without making the rest of the picture too black and the contrast too high. Every raw converter handles colors differently. This is a way to get around it to some extent.
Comments
There can be a number of reasons
first "zero out" the Camera
Then, Calibrate your Monitor
next
In LR
In edit, go to preferences and set them all to "default"
next, using a grey card, check W/B
Then check the "presence" sliders are set to zero
Then in , HSL/Color/ B&W
click Colour
check Green and and Aqua sliders are set to zero
If you still have an issue
You can vary the green saturation in the latter
I believe when a photo is entered into the "develop" window, the color balance is not set in the middle but is dependent on the data in the image. All the other sliders are in neutral position.
New "brush" windows need to be reset each time as I use the tools. I find this helpful as in brushing effects into an area, IMO it works best to use a very small amount and repeat two or three times for the final effect.
@ sevencrossing: shooting RAW, all in-camera post-processing set to 0, PictureControl Standard 1, auto-WB. My understanding (which may be incorrect) is that LR does not take in-camera settings into account for RAW files (except for WB).
And of course, my screens are calibrated (Spyder4 Pro), and all controls centered.
I just compared, on the same screen, the unedited picture in LR 4.3 then in CNX2, and there is a difference, actually: blues are more saturated in CNX2, while greens are more saturated in LR. So basically, you can see it on a picture with both grass and sky. Now that I check, the difference in sky color can be staggering. I have a really good example (actually, the picture is a reject, but the difference in colors is showing quite clearly), I'll try to post it later.
@ Gab: I agree, I was just wondering if there was a consensus on a "default green offset" of some sort, so as to apply it systematically on import.
Anyway, thanks all for your input.
I guess it could have something to do with the way each software translates the bayer filtration into a picture (and so would be different for each sensor, I suppose).
EDIT: just stumbled upon an article by Thom Hogan (www.bythom.com), titled "The Kermit Syndrome", about this very "issue". In particular, he says the following:
Oh, but wait, what raw converter did you use? Let me guess: Adobe. Let me guess further: you used the Adobe Standard Camera Profile. Go back to the Basic tab in Adobe Raw Converter. Notice that second slider under White Balance? Tint is labeled Green at the left side, Magenta at the right. Do you have a significantly negative number there? Yep, you've got a green image. I've learned to mistrust Adobe's White Balance interpretation if I'm seeing large numbers in the Tint section. (And don't get me started on the over-abundance of Orange saturation in most Adobe conversions.)
I'm tempted to say that my Nikon DSLRs are more of a Fozzie Bear: they're always joking around with focus and my Nikkor lenses tend to make wocka wocka noises (buh-duh-bump). But my Nikon DSLRs are definitely not Kermits. Neither are yours.
If you take a look at the shot of one of my dogs I took yesterday with the V1 that is the portrait setting for the DX2 with zero tweaking and no sharpening, noise reduction etc at the bottom of page 3 in the top thread comparing various small cameras. Good luck, I like the V1 even more having found this solution, and it works equally well for on my D7000. Ignore his other products if you have NIK, OnOne, or Topaz.
Be sure to click to see the dogs head shot at 100 percent to see the Margaret's eyes which show how good the blacks are without making the rest of the picture too black and the contrast too high. Every raw converter handles colors differently. This is a way to get around it to some extent.