Nikon D7000 & Lightroom 4 - green channel

GhostRider117GhostRider117 Posts: 29Member
edited February 2013 in D90/D7x00
I happen to use Lightroom 4.3 for post-processing.

When post-processing pictures from my D7000, I find the greens to be oversaturated.

Anybody has the same issue? What settings do you use in LR 4.3 with regards to the green channel?
Post edited by GhostRider117 on


  • QuintonHurstQuintonHurst Posts: 24Member
    I haven't noticed this myself but I will look for it in future edits. I don't mess with the separate color channel sliders as of right now.
  • GabGab Posts: 63Member
    I think this is more of a personal taste thing. I wouldn't worry about what others think, if u think the green is over-saturated, then just add a little desaturation to the green to your default develop settings.
  • spraynprayspraynpray Posts: 6,535Moderator
    Some controls in LR don't return to center when you move on to the next image - do your controls appear to all be centered?
    Always learning.
  • sevencrossingsevencrossing Posts: 2,800Member
    edited February 2013
    First question, are you you shooting RAW or JPEG?

    There can be a number of reasons

    first "zero out" the Camera

    Then, Calibrate your Monitor


    In LR

    In edit, go to preferences and set them all to "default"

    next, using a grey card, check W/B

    Then check the "presence" sliders are set to zero

    Then in , HSL/Color/ B&W
    click Colour
    check Green and and Aqua sliders are set to zero

    If you still have an issue

    You can vary the green saturation in the latter

    Post edited by sevencrossing on
  • MsmotoMsmoto Posts: 5,398Moderator
    edited February 2013
    In LR 4.3 I have not found the greens to be particularly over saturated, but almost any bright red will very quickly block up if sat and vibrance are increased in the overall photo. Quite often I will brush some desaturation inot the reds, then increase the vibrance and saturation overall.

    I believe when a photo is entered into the "develop" window, the color balance is not set in the middle but is dependent on the data in the image. All the other sliders are in neutral position.

    New "brush" windows need to be reset each time as I use the tools. I find this helpful as in brushing effects into an area, IMO it works best to use a very small amount and repeat two or three times for the final effect.
    Post edited by Msmoto on
    Msmoto, mod
  • GhostRider117GhostRider117 Posts: 29Member
    Thanks all for the input.

    @ sevencrossing: shooting RAW, all in-camera post-processing set to 0, PictureControl Standard 1, auto-WB. My understanding (which may be incorrect) is that LR does not take in-camera settings into account for RAW files (except for WB).

    And of course, my screens are calibrated (Spyder4 Pro), and all controls centered.

    I just compared, on the same screen, the unedited picture in LR 4.3 then in CNX2, and there is a difference, actually: blues are more saturated in CNX2, while greens are more saturated in LR. So basically, you can see it on a picture with both grass and sky. Now that I check, the difference in sky color can be staggering. I have a really good example (actually, the picture is a reject, but the difference in colors is showing quite clearly), I'll try to post it later.

    @ Gab: I agree, I was just wondering if there was a consensus on a "default green offset" of some sort, so as to apply it systematically on import.

    Anyway, thanks all for your input.
  • TaoTeJaredTaoTeJared Posts: 1,306Member
    In lightroom check your "camera calibration" drop down. Then Profile corrections. You probably inadvertently changed something there, or have some sort of preset assigned during import.
    D800, D300, D50(ir converted), FujiX100, Canon G11, Olympus TG2. Nikon lenses - 24mm 2.8, 35mm 1.8, (5 in all)50mm, 60mm, 85mm 1.8, 105vr, 105 f2.5, 180mm 2.8, 70-200vr1, 24-120vr f4. Tokina 12-24mm, 16-28mm, 28-70mm (angenieux design), 300mm f2.8. Sigma 15mm fisheye. Voigtlander R2 (olive) & R2a, Voigt 35mm 2.5, Zeiss 50mm f/2, Leica 90mm f/4. I know I missed something...
  • GhostRider117GhostRider117 Posts: 29Member
    edited February 2013
    In lightroom check your "camera calibration" drop down. Then Profile corrections. You probably inadvertently changed something there, or have some sort of preset assigned during import.
    Checked it too, it's Adobe Standard, all zeroed-out.

    I guess it could have something to do with the way each software translates the bayer filtration into a picture (and so would be different for each sensor, I suppose).

    EDIT: just stumbled upon an article by Thom Hogan (, titled "The Kermit Syndrome", about this very "issue". In particular, he says the following:

    Oh, but wait, what raw converter did you use? Let me guess: Adobe. Let me guess further: you used the Adobe Standard Camera Profile. Go back to the Basic tab in Adobe Raw Converter. Notice that second slider under White Balance? Tint is labeled Green at the left side, Magenta at the right. Do you have a significantly negative number there? Yep, you've got a green image. I've learned to mistrust Adobe's White Balance interpretation if I'm seeing large numbers in the Tint section. (And don't get me started on the over-abundance of Orange saturation in most Adobe conversions.)

    I'm tempted to say that my Nikon DSLRs are more of a Fozzie Bear: they're always joking around with focus and my Nikkor lenses tend to make wocka wocka noises (buh-duh-bump). But my Nikon DSLRs are definitely not Kermits. Neither are yours.
    Post edited by GhostRider117 on
  • TriShooterTriShooter Posts: 219Member
    I dislike adobe immensely for color. There is a guy that sells digital color tools that will let the D7000 emulate the contrast and colors of the D2X which I like for CS6. I think the company is called PS Kiss, and expect there are others as well. I found these recently, and really like the portrait mode. I always thought the D2X in portrait mode, II, and standard where about as good as it could get for my eyes.

    If you take a look at the shot of one of my dogs I took yesterday with the V1 that is the portrait setting for the DX2 with zero tweaking and no sharpening, noise reduction etc at the bottom of page 3 in the top thread comparing various small cameras. Good luck, I like the V1 even more having found this solution, and it works equally well for on my D7000. Ignore his other products if you have NIK, OnOne, or Topaz.

    Be sure to click to see the dogs head shot at 100 percent to see the Margaret's eyes which show how good the blacks are without making the rest of the picture too black and the contrast too high. Every raw converter handles colors differently. This is a way to get around it to some extent.
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