Polarizers and the Nikon petal hoods

pbull221pbull221 Posts: 32Member
edited August 2015 in Nikon Lenses
Has anyone run into the issue of using a polarizer (nikon of course :-), ) with the twist on petal hood that everyone is using nowadays?
Unless I have the camera on a tripod it is an annoying challenge to take the hood off, turn the polarizer for maximum effect, then put the it back on. Add to that the fact that I developed "benign familial tremor" back in 2012 and you have a recipe for gravity to win with one piece of gear or another.

I'd appreciate input on what is already an annoying issue.

Comments

  • PB_PMPB_PM Posts: 4,494Member
    I tend to just leave the hood off when using a polarizer hand held for that very reason.
    If I take a good photo it's not my camera's fault.
  • IronheartIronheart Posts: 3,017Moderator
    edited August 2015
    You don't need a hood if you have a polarizer. If you think about it, a hood is to prevent off-angle stray light from entering the lens and causing ghosts or reflections. A polarizer is used to prevent off-angle stray light from entering the lens and causing ghosts or reflections or glare. Seems pretty mutually exclusive to me.
    Post edited by Ironheart on
  • SnowleopardSnowleopard Posts: 244Member
    I agree with Ironheart, but I have tried it and it is a pain in the ........ I know you don't need it with a polarizer, but It would be nice.
    ||COOLPIX 5000|●|D70|●|D700|●|D810|●|AF-S NIKKOR 14-24mm f/2.8G ED|●|AF Nikkor 20mm f/2.8D|●|AF Nikkor 50mm f/1.4D|●|AF-S NIKKOR 50mm f/1.4G|●|AF Micro-Nikkor 60mm f/2.8D|●|AF-S Micro Nikkor 60mm f/2.8G ED|●|AF-S VR Zoom-NIKKOR 70-200mm f/2.8G IF-ED (Silver)|●|AF-S Teleconverter TC-20E III|●|PB-6 Bellows|●|EL-NIKKOR 50mm f/2.8||
  • pbull221pbull221 Posts: 32Member
    Maybe I am too protective of my expensive lenses? The bit about not needing it from Ironheart makes more sense than anything I'd ever thought of. I need to check into that. Thanks everyone for your observations. Sometimes a thing sticks in my craw and I wind up just asking around rather that finding a solution on my own. That extra bit of insurance on that front element seemed so all important until just now. :-)
  • IronheartIronheart Posts: 3,017Moderator
    Oh, and the polarizer will protect the front element too! Actually twice, because a polarizer is really two pieces of glass.
  • pbull221pbull221 Posts: 32Member
    Well hey, polarizer just got put back into the kit bag.
  • heartyfisherheartyfisher Posts: 3,192Member
    edited August 2015
    Oh, and the polarizer will protect the front element too! Actually twice, because a polarizer is really two pieces of glass.
    Yes to the protection bit ... err .. 2 pieces ? I think maybe you are thinking of the variable ND filter .. cos that is 2 Polarisers ...

    Interesting idea of a Polariser's functional equivalence to a Hood in terms of flare.. I like it. :-) I think you may be right ... that is can cut down flare at certain settings but i think just like reflections I think you can enhance it as well with a polariser... will have a play !

    Post edited by heartyfisher on
    Moments of Light - D610 D7K S5pro 70-200f4 18-200 150f2.8 12-24 18-70 35-70f2.8 : C&C very welcome!
    Being a photographer is a lot like being a Christian: Some people look at you funny but do not see the amazing beauty all around them - heartyfisher.

  • IronheartIronheart Posts: 3,017Moderator
    Ha, yes, you are right about the two, thinking of a vari-ND. Good luck getting flare/ghosts with a polarizer, I'm curious to see the results :-)
  • esquiloesquilo Posts: 71Member
    edited August 2015
    I use polarizer and petal shaped hood on my 16-85. The hood is not so deep so I have no problem turning the polarizer. The same polarizer on the 70-300 is a different matter.

    @heartyfisher: A polariser actually has two pieces of glass; Linear polarizer in front of a circular polarizer. Linear polarizer only will screw up your metering and circular polarizer only does not change anything when you turn it. On it's own it's basically a one stop ND-filter.
    Post edited by esquilo on
    Nikon D7100 with Sigma 10-20 mm, Nikon 16-85 mm, Nikon 70-300 mm, Sigma 150-500 mm, Nikon 28 mm f/1.8G and Nikon 50 mm f/1.8G.
    Nikon1 J3 with 10-30 mm and 10 mm f/2.8
  • paulrpaulr Posts: 1,176Member
    edited August 2015
    You can have the best of both worlds. This made the Hood size 86mm so quite large and vignetting could be a problem at certain Focal lengths. The original CPL filter was very well made and are becoming quite rare.
    https://nikoneurope-en.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/21603

    Pol-filter
    Post edited by paulr on
    Camera, Lens and Tripod and a few other Bits
  • pbull221pbull221 Posts: 32Member
    I liked the click in hood from circa 1970 that went with my 43-86mm lens. If they'd toughened up that design they'd have really hit the right solution. Click in is all well and good but when the darn thing causes issues like this it kinda bugs me.

    Thanks to everyone who helped.
  • pbull221pbull221 Posts: 32Member
    Maybe I will invent a selfi stick I can use to reach into the hood and turn the polarizer without touching the glass. You know, just a pen sized device like a tiny backscratcher... :-)
  • spraynprayspraynpray Posts: 6,545Moderator
    I have started holding bigger filters in front of the lens when it is a once only usage. Saves a lot of hassle.
    Always learning.
  • paulrpaulr Posts: 1,176Member
    Blimey Spraynpray have you got three hands?
    Camera, Lens and Tripod and a few other Bits
  • retreadretread Posts: 574Member
    How can you align it with the lens elements holding in in your hand? Seems like it would be and some angle instead of in line.
  • spraynprayspraynpray Posts: 6,545Moderator
    edited September 2015
    The camera is on a tripod @paulr!

    @retread: I don't obsess too much - near enough seems to be good enough. This was a 10 stop held against the petal lens hood:
    Grain Tower-2
    Post edited by spraynpray on
    Always learning.
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