Updated 1.4 Primes?



  • WestEndFotoWestEndFoto Posts: 3,675Member
    edited January 2016
    Thanks VTC2002 and Spraynpray.

    For verification, for portrait work I use my 50mm 1.4G, 85mm 1.4G and 135 DC2.0. I use my AIS lenses (20 2.8 AIS, 24 2.8 AIS, 28 2.8 AIS and 50 1.2 AIS) and a 40mm f/2.0 Voigtlander for landscapes. As a side note, I usually shoot f/5.6 to f/11.0, but will often use the 50mm at 1.2 because I like the look of the “defective” optics at 1.2 on certain subjects, meaning the strong spherical aberration.

    Regarding the backbutton, I used Spraynpray’s technique for the first year of shooting my D800, but after the back button technique was brought up in a previous thread on this forum, I switched to that and never went back. The advantage is that I can focus on something off centre while using the centre focus point (single point mode) and then take several shots after I recompose. I have to cycle through this process for every shot if I don’t use backfocus. Also, critically for landscapes, I can focus on a hyperfocus point using back focus and not have to worry about resetting the focus as I shoot. It is faster for me and I feel like I have more control.

    Maybe there is still a better technique, but having switched from focusing with a semi-depressed shutter button to back focus, I will never go back.

    And of course, if I am at f/1.4 or even anything less than about f/4.0, I move the single focus point to that critical closest eye. But I still use backbutton focus.
    Post edited by WestEndFoto on
  • starralaznstarralazn Posts: 204Member
    hm.. for me, shooting wide open at ~5ft, focus and recomposing doesnt work well, haha. for landscapes that prob works fine.
  • WestEndFotoWestEndFoto Posts: 3,675Member
    hm.. for me, shooting wide open at ~5ft, focus and recomposing doesnt work well, haha. for landscapes that prob works fine.
    I don't do that when shooting wide open. For the example of a portrait where I want the closest eye to be in focus, I shoot in single focus point mode and move the point of focus to that eye and use the backbutton.

    There is no focus and then recompose. If you are shooting less than about f/4.0, that can be problematic because the distance between the sensor and subject's focus point changes (even if the subject is still). Think the different sides of a triangle. With the paper thin focus wide open, this is a problem and just to be on the safe side, I change my technique at less than f/4.0.
  • vtc2002vtc2002 Posts: 364Member
    @spraynprsy You are absolutely right. Steve Simon first introduced it to me. I hated it at first and it took me awhile to get use to the technique. I find it easier to hold the AF-On button continuously and pressing the release button with my index finger. I find I can focus on my subject without having to worry that much about focus. The auto focusing has improved so much that i find it much more reliable than my aging eyes. I appreciate your technique and glad it works for you. Glad we have so many options.
    @WestEndFoto I do not recompose. I use the different focus point option based on what I am shooting and place the priority sensor on what I want in focus and shoot without recomposing. In the example of the wedding I would have the priority sensor on her eye if I am shooting with a shallow depth of field. In other scenarios I may use group or dynamic 9 or 21. The group has four priority sensors where ss the dynamic 9 and 21 only have one. I am not a fan of dynamic 51 or the 3D options. Using this technique I find that I have a higher success rate of getting the image I want without shooting burst and hoping I got it
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