You can have a 50+mp Nikon sensor now.

donaldejosedonaldejose Posts: 3,691Member
edited September 2015 in Nikon DSLR cameras
How? Let's say you are looking at a scene you would normally shoot in horizontal position with a 35mm lens on your D800/D800e/D810 36mp sensor. You would have a file which is 4,912 pixels high and 7,360 pixels wide for a total of 36 megapixels. Instead, put a 50mm lens on your body and shoot the scene vertically with four shots each overlapping one third. Stitch them together as if you were making a panorama. You will have a file which is 7,360 pixels high and about 9,812 pixels wide (depending upon if you were exactly 1/3rd overlapping and how the computer chose to stitch the images together). An image which is 7,360 pixels high and 9,812 pixels wide contains 72 megapixels. It is like you had a 72 megapixel sensor in your camera. You should have much more detail in an image made this way with a 50mm lens then you would have if you made the same image with a 35mm lens in one shot. Anyone willing to try it and post their experience below?
Post edited by donaldejose on

Comments

  • SnowleopardSnowleopard Posts: 244Member
    Stitching does not work for all types of photography.... Mainly for dead or static objects...

    Like, for landscapes, buildings, cars, etc...... Try stitching 4-8 photos of a basketball player in motion? or a honey bee...... or your cat or dog which will move......
    ||COOLPIX 5000|●|D70|●|D700|●|D810|●|AF-S NIKKOR 14-24mm f/2.8G ED|●|AF Nikkor 20mm f/2.8D|●|AF Nikkor 50mm f/1.4D|●|AF-S NIKKOR 50mm f/1.4G|●|AF Micro-Nikkor 60mm f/2.8D|●|AF-S Micro Nikkor 60mm f/2.8G ED|●|AF-S VR Zoom-NIKKOR 70-200mm f/2.8G IF-ED (Silver)|●|AF-S Teleconverter TC-20E III|●|PB-6 Bellows|●|EL-NIKKOR 50mm f/2.8||
  • 9viii9viii Posts: 25Member
    I do love the idea of the GigaPan though.

    Even if only for the ability to say that you use a 300mm lens for wide angle landscape shots.
  • heartyfisherheartyfisher Posts: 3,186Member
    edited September 2015
    I have been playing with "super resolution" works well... I can downsize to 50mp ;-)
    But you do need a sharp lense ...
    Post edited by heartyfisher on
    Moments of Light - D610 D7K S5pro 70-200f4 18-200 150f2.8 12-24 18-70 35-70f2.8 : C&C very welcome!
    Being a photographer is a lot like being a Christian: Some people look at you funny but do not see the amazing beauty all around them - heartyfisher.

  • spraynprayspraynpray Posts: 6,545Moderator
    Stitching does not work for all types of photography.... Mainly for dead or static objects...

    Like, for landscapes, buildings, cars, etc...... Try stitching 4-8 photos of a basketball player in motion? or a honey bee...... or your cat or dog which will move......
    I think you would be surprised if you tried it. If you saw me taking the images for this stack in a gale with the subject whipping around so much, you would think it a waste of time.

    Emperor Dragonfly
    Always learning.
  • GjesdalGjesdal Posts: 277Member
    Not quite the same, but still..? (Oh, btw, I've not tried this yet)
    http://petapixel.com/2015/02/21/a-practical-guide-to-creating-superresolution-photos-with-photoshop/
    D810 | D7100 | Sigma 50mm f/1.4 DG HSM Art |Nikon 70-200mm F2.8 G AF-S VRII ED | Nikon 105mm F2.8 AF-S IF-ED VR II Micro | Sigma 17-50 f/2.8 EX DC OS HSM | Sigma 150-500mm f/5-6.3 DG OS HSM | Coolpix P6000 IR converted | http://gjesdal.org
  • spraynprayspraynpray Posts: 6,545Moderator
    Good link.
    Always learning.
  • heartyfisherheartyfisher Posts: 3,186Member
    Thats what I tried .. works... but as I said you need a good lense for the best results
    Moments of Light - D610 D7K S5pro 70-200f4 18-200 150f2.8 12-24 18-70 35-70f2.8 : C&C very welcome!
    Being a photographer is a lot like being a Christian: Some people look at you funny but do not see the amazing beauty all around them - heartyfisher.

  • kanuckkanuck Posts: 1,300Member
    Thats what I tried .. works... but as I said you need a good lense for the best results
    I bet a very good prime at that!

  • donaldejosedonaldejose Posts: 3,691Member
    The technique I suggested in the original post is easier than the superresolution technique. In my suggested technique you gain increased sharpness through magnification because you are putting a slightly longer lens on the same subject matter. Thus, you are using more pixels to cover the same area.
  • SnowleopardSnowleopard Posts: 244Member
    Stitching does not work for all types of photography.... Mainly for dead or static objects...

    Like, for landscapes, buildings, cars, etc...... Try stitching 4-8 photos of a basketball player in motion? or a honey bee...... or your cat or dog which will move......
    I think you would be surprised if you tried it. If you saw me taking the images for this stack in a gale with the subject whipping around so much, you would think it a waste of time.

    Emperor Dragonfly
    Nice sample of what is possible...

    From that article though, it clearly states:

    "E: Not Suitable for Moving Subjects

    Both the method outlined here and the sensor shift superresolution method have distinct problems with subject movement. If there’s any relative movement in the scene such as trees swaying in the wind, moving traffic or people walking, there will be apparent blur in those areas.

    In my example scene at point ‘E’ below, there were cars driving in the distance and they show obvious ghosting/blurring due to the average stacking method. This is probably the most major limitation of superresolution stacking as it makes it impractical to shoot moving subjects without them looking like a blurry mess:"


    Did I miss something here?

    Again, this works in some situations where the object or objects being photographed are "static" or "dead".

    :-)
    ||COOLPIX 5000|●|D70|●|D700|●|D810|●|AF-S NIKKOR 14-24mm f/2.8G ED|●|AF Nikkor 20mm f/2.8D|●|AF Nikkor 50mm f/1.4D|●|AF-S NIKKOR 50mm f/1.4G|●|AF Micro-Nikkor 60mm f/2.8D|●|AF-S Micro Nikkor 60mm f/2.8G ED|●|AF-S VR Zoom-NIKKOR 70-200mm f/2.8G IF-ED (Silver)|●|AF-S Teleconverter TC-20E III|●|PB-6 Bellows|●|EL-NIKKOR 50mm f/2.8||
  • donaldejosedonaldejose Posts: 3,691Member
    Of course you are correct. Movement detracts from stitching a the boarders but it does not affect the image captured away from the point of stitching. Thus, you can use it when there is slight movement. You just have to try it and my method isn't so hard to do: just click, slight turn, click, slight turn, click and you are done or do it with four clicks.
  • heartyfisherheartyfisher Posts: 3,186Member
    I have tried both methods...

    SuperResolution is easier but you need a good lense.. I think its easier as you just shoot with the lense you have and you don't even need a tripod though a tripod makes post processing easier.

    Stitching multiple images makes for a sharper image.. so you can use a much less sharp lense.. I have used a 50mm AIS F1.4 and it turned out nice.. You also gain a much shallower DOF.. so your images gain a "medium format" look...
    Moments of Light - D610 D7K S5pro 70-200f4 18-200 150f2.8 12-24 18-70 35-70f2.8 : C&C very welcome!
    Being a photographer is a lot like being a Christian: Some people look at you funny but do not see the amazing beauty all around them - heartyfisher.

  • donaldejosedonaldejose Posts: 3,691Member
    You are right about stitched images having a medium format look. But there is no reason to not use the sharpest lens you have.
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