Battery grip on D810 comes loose

KillerbobKillerbob Posts: 732Member
I have the original MB-D12 battery grip on my D810, and all works fine. However, it seems to come loose after a few hours of usage... I tighten the attachment wheel, but eventually it will come loose. I have tried really putting some muscle into the tightening, and I am afraid that if I try even harden, something will break.

Does anyone have a suggestion as to what I could do? I thought about using some RRS threadlocker fluid, but I do take off the battery grip from time to time, if for no other reason then to charge the internal battery...

Comments

  • PistnbrokePistnbroke Posts: 2,219Member
    You may find that the screw is bottoming in the thread on the camera so its not pulling the body hard up against the camera ...You could shorten the tread on the unit by about 25 thou (1/2 mm)
  • KillerbobKillerbob Posts: 732Member
    Hmmmm. It's pretty solid when tightened, but I'll look into that when I am home again (I'm in Canada on vacation). Should I just use a sander for that?
  • IronheartIronheart Posts: 3,017Moderator
    @Pistnbroke would probably use his lathe :wink: I'd use a dremel tool, but a sander if you can secure the screw in a vise or something should be fine.
  • paulrpaulr Posts: 1,176Member
    edited July 2016
    Before you do any major surgery , I would measure how far the screw protrudes from the grip, and then measure the mount in the D810 camera body to see how deep the screw hole fitting is.
    Genuine Nikon parts work to a fine tolerance, and doing any kind of work has described would invalidate the warranty assuming it was in the warranty time scale.
    Post edited by paulr on
    Camera, Lens and Tripod and a few other Bits
  • PistnbrokePistnbroke Posts: 2,219Member
    edited July 2016
    no what I would do is dismantle the grip ( done that many times ) and put a washer under the treaded component and re test. There is some taper on the end of the thread so measurement is difficult, but then I would not be daft enough to buy a genuine Nikon at $399 ??? but a grey at $39 where a few strokes of the file makes no difference ...ha ha
    I even have a grip from a D7000 on my D800 which does its job of carrying 6 spare AA batteries for my flash ( connector removed ) 5 min work with the angle grinder but no expense. Profit and function is No 1
    Post edited by Pistnbroke on
  • paulrpaulr Posts: 1,176Member
    Genuine Nikon grips for the D810 threads are flat not tapered, plus i would always be concerned of electrical faults from the grip causing shorts in the camera,
    grip
    Camera, Lens and Tripod and a few other Bits
  • KillerbobKillerbob Posts: 732Member
    I measured the screw and the hole in the D810, and it is definately deep enough... So, back to suggestions. Could I use some threadlocker?
  • PistnbrokePistnbroke Posts: 2,219Member
    Try cutting a tin card template (postcard) and put it between the two and then see if the screw action feels any different ... without sign of bottoming in the thread.
    With thread locker I would be worried you would not be able to put sufficient force on the tread to undo it .usually heat is used to destroy the threadlock.
  • paulrpaulr Posts: 1,176Member
    Probably a silly question but are you using the rubber grommet on the grip, the one which protects the grip connection on the camera, it helps stopping movement
    Camera, Lens and Tripod and a few other Bits
  • KillerbobKillerbob Posts: 732Member
    Yes, I have left it in there... I didn't know it had a function, I just kept it there not to loose it...
  • PistnbrokePistnbroke Posts: 2,219Member
    did you cure the problem? how did the thin card test go ?
    Personally I just take out the connector and use them as dumb battery carriers then I can have no problems ....
  • MegapixelSchnitzelMegapixelSchnitzel Posts: 185Member
    Killerbob said:

    I measured the screw and the hole in the D810, and it is definately deep enough... So, back to suggestions. Could I use some threadlocker?

    Blue LocTite, no tighter than you can torque it with your bare fingers.
  • spraynprayspraynpray Posts: 6,389Moderator
    If I were you, I would black the thread, and screw it in to check it is not an incomplete thread that is causing the looseness. Just measuring length/depth isn't proof IMHO. Be careful too about adding anything between camera body and grip as you can deform the plate when you tighten the screw which will make everything worse.
    Always learning.
  • PistnbrokePistnbroke Posts: 2,219Member
    edited August 2016
    Spray ..I meant a card cut to the shape of the bottom of the camera with cut outs and holes just to see if the feel of the tightening is different...ie does not bottom out ...otherwise I agree..its the depth of the thread in the hole that matters
    Post edited by Pistnbroke on
  • KillerbobKillerbob Posts: 732Member
    I used a bit of loctite, and it works very well. The only reason I need to break the loctite once in a while, is to charge the "internal" battery when it runs dry...
Sign In or Register to comment.