Macro/Portrait lens for DX

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Comments

  • KnockKnockKnockKnock Posts: 398Member
    edited April 2013
    Curious if anyone has experience with these. They seem cheeper than the Kenko tubes, and possibly higher quality than the Zeikos.

    Vello Spacers

    Seems like the 85mm 1.8G with a spacer would be ideal for both portraits and macro.
    Post edited by KnockKnock on
    D7100, D60, 35mm f/1.8 DX, 50mm f/1.4, 18-105mm DX, 18-55mm VR II, Sony RX-100 ii
  • Golf007sdGolf007sd Posts: 2,840Moderator
    Question to the owners of the Raynox - does the small diameter make it harder for the camera to focus?
    Not that much. But with it attached to my 50mm, I put the lens into Manual mode.

    D4 & D7000 | Nikon Holy Trinity Set + 105 2.8 Mico + 200 F2 VR II | 300 2.8G VR II, 10.5 Fish-eye, 24 & 50 1.4G, 35 & 85 1.8G, 18-200 3.5-5.6 VR I SB-400 & 700 | TC 1.4E III, 1.7 & 2.0E III, 1.7 | Sigma 35 & 50 1.4 DG HSM | RRS Ballhead & Tripods Gear | Gitzo Monopod | Lowepro Gear | HDR via Promote Control System |
  • spraynprayspraynpray Posts: 6,484Moderator
    Interesting Golf. I personally struggle to focus critically manually without a split prism and fresnel ring focussing screen like in the good ol' days.
    Always learning.
  • Golf007sdGolf007sd Posts: 2,840Moderator
    @spraynpray: I think you will find using the Raynox very easy and I know you have the skills to get the results you seek. Which lens are you thinking of using it with, if you don't mind me asking?
    D4 & D7000 | Nikon Holy Trinity Set + 105 2.8 Mico + 200 F2 VR II | 300 2.8G VR II, 10.5 Fish-eye, 24 & 50 1.4G, 35 & 85 1.8G, 18-200 3.5-5.6 VR I SB-400 & 700 | TC 1.4E III, 1.7 & 2.0E III, 1.7 | Sigma 35 & 50 1.4 DG HSM | RRS Ballhead & Tripods Gear | Gitzo Monopod | Lowepro Gear | HDR via Promote Control System |
  • spraynprayspraynpray Posts: 6,484Moderator
    Good question. I am really getting the hots for an 85mm f1.8 and extension tubes a la Tommie but in the mean time I have a 50/1.4 or more usually my 18-105 (I like the working distance at 90-105 for insects). I do have one of those 'cheap old' close-up filters and don't get big problems with CA or distortion and if I did see any CA Lightroom would soon fix it so that isn't a show stopper.

    The Raynox is half way in my mind - neither one thing or the other. The extension tubes add no glass so I like that idea. Having said that, I have seen some results with the Raynox that made my eyes nearly pop out.

    I asked the question because insects move fast on a hot day and so I can't have slow focussing. so much gear to try, so little money!
    Always learning.
  • heartyfisherheartyfisher Posts: 3,182Member
    Question to the owners of the Raynox - does the small diameter make it harder for the camera to focus?
    No.. but at macro distances auto-focus is really not very useful anyway... much much better to manual focus when doing macro photography.

    Moments of Light - D610 D7K S5pro 70-200f4 18-200 150f2.8 12-24 18-70 35-70f2.8 : C&C very welcome!
    Being a photographer is a lot like being a Christian: Some people look at you funny but do not see the amazing beauty all around them - heartyfisher.

  • Golf007sdGolf007sd Posts: 2,840Moderator
    edited April 2013
    @spraynpray: Well amigo, here are some pictures I just took with the lens you mentioned. All the shots where taken while the lens was set to Auto...no over-ride was done on my part...I let the auto-focus system do all the work. Hope these help in which ever direction you go.

    The setup you are considering: Group shot of the 50 1.4G, 85 1.8G and the Raynox DCR-250.

    ARN_6968.jpg
    D4 24 1.4G 1/320 ISO 100 @ f/6.3

    What it looks like while it is mounted on the 50 1.4G:

    ARN_6963.jpg
    D4 24 1.4G 1/100 ISO 100 @ f/10

    What it looks like while it is mounted on the 85 1.8G:

    ARN_6969.jpg
    D4 24 1.4G 1/320 ISO 100 2 f/6.3

    Sample image of the Raynox 250 while using the 50 1.4G:

    ARN_6971.jpg
    D4 50 1.4G 1/320 ISO 100 @ f/6.3 /w Raynox DCR-250
    Click here for full-res of image.

    Sample image of the Raynox 250 while using on the 85 1.8G:

    ARN_6973.jpg
    D4 85 1.8G 1/320 ISO 100 @ f/6.3 /w Raynox DCR-250
    Click here for full res of image.

    ARN_6975.jpg
    D4 85 1.8G 1/40 ISO 100 @ f/11 /w Raynox DCR-250
    Click here for full-res of image.
    Post edited by Golf007sd on
    D4 & D7000 | Nikon Holy Trinity Set + 105 2.8 Mico + 200 F2 VR II | 300 2.8G VR II, 10.5 Fish-eye, 24 & 50 1.4G, 35 & 85 1.8G, 18-200 3.5-5.6 VR I SB-400 & 700 | TC 1.4E III, 1.7 & 2.0E III, 1.7 | Sigma 35 & 50 1.4 DG HSM | RRS Ballhead & Tripods Gear | Gitzo Monopod | Lowepro Gear | HDR via Promote Control System |
  • dissentdissent Posts: 1,314Member
    I asked the question because insects move fast on a hot day and so I can't have slow focussing. so much gear to try, so little money!
    Some of the best bug shots I've seen were taken on early cold (or cool) mornings, before the bugs heat up and get active. Sadly it looks like I might need to get more used to being a morning person again, at least for some subjects. :bz
    - Ian . . . [D7000, D7100; Nikon glass: 35 f1.8, 85 f1.8, 70-300 VR, 105 f2.8 VR, 12-24 f4; 16-85 VR, 300 f4D, 14E-II TC, SB-400, SB-700 . . . and still plenty of ignorance]
  • spraynprayspraynpray Posts: 6,484Moderator
    OK, plan is: Finish my macro bracket arrangement (waiting for cheap softbox from China that I cam compare to my Gary Fong Lightsphere), use it with 60mm micro and 18-105 with +3 diopter close up, then see if I need to get a Raynox. I don't think I'll need 1:1 with the Raynox as I have it with the 60mm so I'd prolly get the Raynox that is less powerful for my butterfly shots (150?).

    Thanks for those pics Golf - the Raynox is very good, but it sure is an ugly li'l sucker though!

    Next project - swap my 50/1.4 for an 85/1.8...
    Always learning.
  • Golf007sdGolf007sd Posts: 2,840Moderator
    @spraynpray: Don't swap...just add to your arsenal. We cannot let msmoto & TTJ get to far ahead of us :P
    D4 & D7000 | Nikon Holy Trinity Set + 105 2.8 Mico + 200 F2 VR II | 300 2.8G VR II, 10.5 Fish-eye, 24 & 50 1.4G, 35 & 85 1.8G, 18-200 3.5-5.6 VR I SB-400 & 700 | TC 1.4E III, 1.7 & 2.0E III, 1.7 | Sigma 35 & 50 1.4 DG HSM | RRS Ballhead & Tripods Gear | Gitzo Monopod | Lowepro Gear | HDR via Promote Control System |
  • spraynprayspraynpray Posts: 6,484Moderator
    LOL - I wish!

    Those full res shots using the Raynox show it is good indeed.

    @heartyfisher: I personally find using autofocus to initially lock on is useful. Sway focus takes over from there when I shoot.
    Always learning.
  • heartyfisherheartyfisher Posts: 3,182Member
    edited April 2013
    LOL - I wish!

    Those full res shots using the Raynox show it is good indeed.

    @heartyfisher: I personally find using autofocus to initially lock on is useful. Sway focus takes over from there when I shoot.
    I may be a P mode shooter generally :-) but with macro its all manual (focus, iso, shutter, aperture..) ! ( except the flash .. cls is awesome)

    Post edited by heartyfisher on
    Moments of Light - D610 D7K S5pro 70-200f4 18-200 150f2.8 12-24 18-70 35-70f2.8 : C&C very welcome!
    Being a photographer is a lot like being a Christian: Some people look at you funny but do not see the amazing beauty all around them - heartyfisher.

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