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and about 10 hours in photoshop.
What kind of equipment (lenses, lighting, soft box etc.) will i need, to make a small home studio for taking shots of small objects (wine bottles, jewelry, fruits etc.).
For table-top photography, a selection of backgrounds on a small cheap background support and poles kit can be found on ebay too.
Even camera mounts can be fabricated from hardware easily available almost anywhere.
Camera, lenses, are unlimited, but for small objects some folks like a PC-E Micro NIKKOR 85mm f/2.8D where no distortion is desired.
For starters i dont want to know brands of stuff to purchase. I want to know what is needed, for example... a diffuser, a soft box, an up to 80mm tele lens etc. In general what i will i need.
A Shooting Table
lighting tent or cube
Big soft box
Two medium softboxes
A good quality solid tripod
Selection of stands, clamps, booms, batons and arms
Appel boxes, bits of wood and various spacers
Black foamex ( use this to create a black edge or rim on the bottles then remove in post )
wire, string, pins, plasticien, blue tack, thread
drafting tape double sided tape, gaffer tape
plate glass shelves
All Available for a song secondhand on ebay
AF-S VR 105 f/2.8G IF-ED if shooting FX
Camera tethered to computer so the results can be viewed straight off
with LR and or Photoshop
Flash or continuous light ? Continuous will allow you to see what you are doing
A few years training is useful
This is a website that my instructor in my Advanced Lighting class is putting together.
He walked us through how he created the Bufallo Trace image. Basically three tries at a seven hour shoot (one was because someone moved the bottle and was a write off) and about 10 hours in photoshop. About 30 hours total. By the end of the class, I will have the skillset for the lighting (barely), for which there was about 10 shots. I will want to take Still Life photography before I think that I would have it nailed. Whups, I did not mention that it will take a year to really learn the skills taught in the class as I will need to practice implementing them. However, I will not have the skillset for the Photoshop work. There are three levels of photoshop at the college each with 36 hours of in class instruction. I just started the first level and the compositing skills that I will need are taught in the second level.
I say this not to discourage you, but to convey a realistic appreciation of the skillset required for really good product and still life photography. I would still encourage you to try it. I do, but none of the results are worthy of sharing. Give me a couple of years for that.
anyone remember using blooping ink
But I don't think that anybody is saying that great or decent or whatever standard of gear that you want to specify cannot produce great images. We are saying you need access to certain tools to produce certain images.
The image that Zoran linked to requires a certain access, as the lighting is essentially impossible without compositing. Is it possible to produce great images of bottles in natural light? Sure, but not those ones.
The OP has provided us with very little information
We do not know what equipment he has, his experience, his budget or the purpose of the photographs; without this information, it is very difficult to give much advice
If the photos are for ebay then s&p's advice is sound
If the photographs are of glassware or jewelry, for a commercial web site, in a competitive industry, then natural lighting is unlikely to be the best option; as it is difficult to control and cannot be easily replicated at a future date
Strip boxes are key to achieving the long highlights on bottle edges. You can move them more the front to widen the edge light or slightly behind to narrow the edge light. If you don't have strip boxes you can DIY them using square, rectangular, or octoboxes by flagging the output/front with cardboard.
Additionally, you really need to understand your camera and how to control light (both ambient and strobe) in manual mode. A solid tripod is a must and once you have the scene composed with camera settings locked, a remote trigger really helps out. Then it's just adjust lights/reflectors and check results.
I'm not an expert and don't claim to be. I know through my own experiments that professional results are possible with a little imagination. Just set up and start shooting. Tethering helps in that you can see results right away. It really makes for a fun afternoon when you finally get it right and the image pops off the screen.