Handshake, shutter-speed, and hand holding a Z6II

rmprmp Posts: 585Member
Hi, I have a bad handshake (essential tremor). I have a Z6II. I am not sure how to set the shutter speed to be able to handhold this camera. I have a 24-70 f4 and a 24-120 f4. Any suggestions would be appreciated especially references to articles or videos. Thanks in advance.
Robert M. Poston: D4, D810, V3, 14-24 F2.8, 24-70 f2.8, 70-200 f2.8, 80-400, 105 macro.

Comments

  • mhedgesmhedges Posts: 2,642Member
    edited April 5
    I would do this in the Auto Iso settings, which is in the camera setup menu. Set the minimum shutter speed to Auto but then go into that menu and make it favor faster speeds if needed. I'd say play around with it a little to see what works for you.

    I can give more precise step by step instructions later when I have the camera in front of me.
    Post edited by mhedges on
  • rmprmp Posts: 585Member
    I agree. I use the Auto-ISO settings and I am looking for the "minimum shutter speed I should use. I have not tried the auto-shutter speed.
    Robert M. Poston: D4, D810, V3, 14-24 F2.8, 24-70 f2.8, 70-200 f2.8, 80-400, 105 macro.
  • Capt_SpauldingCapt_Spaulding Posts: 669Member
    edited April 6
    I suspect it will depend on the amplitude and speed of the oscillation the tremors cause, so whatever you do will need to be confirmed empirically. I'd probably start using the 1/focal length rule of thumb (I don't have a camera at hand but I think that is similar to what the processor elves will do under an auto shutter speed mode) and add 50% to it. Of course, that is just a SWAG with little to nothing to back it up.

    For the sake of discussion, when you activate AF/IS how much shake is apparent in the view finder?
    Post edited by Capt_Spaulding on
  • mhedgesmhedges Posts: 2,642Member
    Its kind of wierd because it is in the auto ISO settings but it does change shutter speed. Sounds just like what you need though. I thing the standard setting more or less follows the 1/shutter speed rule and then each increment adds or subtracts a stop.

    Did you find it in the menus? Sorry, I was out almost all day yesterday. I can give step by step instructions today if you need them.
  • rmprmp Posts: 585Member
    Thanks all. Empirical it is. I am running some trials. Still target board 8'x10' with small (4"x5") cards in the corners and centered. One shot on a tripod and one handheld with auto-ISO and min shutter speed set to a fixed value (1000/sec was first). Then do it over with the next lower min shutter speed value. Then keep repeating until get I to a value where I can see a blur in the review. I will let you know what I found -- if I ever get there.
    Robert M. Poston: D4, D810, V3, 14-24 F2.8, 24-70 f2.8, 70-200 f2.8, 80-400, 105 macro.
  • mhedgesmhedges Posts: 2,642Member
    Just remember the minimum usable speed will depend on focal length. That's why I like the auto option.
  • NSXTypeRNSXTypeR Posts: 2,247Member
    I know it's not really a question you asked, but have you considered maybe a tripod or monopod with remote shutter release or bluetooth? You might not be able to take certain shots you want with fast shutter speeds.
    Nikon D7000/ Nikon D40/ Nikon FM2/ 18-135 AF-S/ 35mm 1.8 AF-S/ 105mm Macro AF-S/ 50mm 1.2 AI-S
  • rmprmp Posts: 585Member
    Sorry it took me so long to reply. Life got in the way.
    In most photography, for the last 20-years, I used a tripod 90 to 95 % of the time. But lugging a tripod around got old.
    For this test, I took a reference photo on a tripod using a timed release to minimize shake. Then I took a series of hand-held photos at different shutter speeds and compared them to the reference photo. The f-stop and ISO were held constant, so I got a lot of noise in some photos. Thankfully, Topaz DeNoise AI saved me.
    The end result is -- I can hand-hold the Z6ii/24-120-f4 combination with shutter speed of 250/s and I cannot see the blur at most, if not all, f-stop and ISO combinations. So, now I have my Auto-ISO settings.
    Thanks for your help.
    Robert M. Poston: D4, D810, V3, 14-24 F2.8, 24-70 f2.8, 70-200 f2.8, 80-400, 105 macro.
  • mhedgesmhedges Posts: 2,642Member
    Glad you found something that works for you!

    You may want to give the 24-200 a try also. It has VR and could give overall better vibration control than the 24-120, especially at the longer end. You may find that the difference in lens speed is made up for by the improved VR performance.
  • rmprmp Posts: 585Member
    Thanks, I like my 24-200 (f mount) but I do not like its size or weight. I guess my age is showing.
    Robert M. Poston: D4, D810, V3, 14-24 F2.8, 24-70 f2.8, 70-200 f2.8, 80-400, 105 macro.
  • mhedgesmhedges Posts: 2,642Member
    ??? There is no F mount 24-200 AFAIK.

    The Z 24-200 is a little smaller and lighter than the Z 24-120.
  • rmprmp Posts: 585Member
    Sorry, I should have said 70-200 f mount.
    Robert M. Poston: D4, D810, V3, 14-24 F2.8, 24-70 f2.8, 70-200 f2.8, 80-400, 105 macro.
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