Lenses that would match D800.

Fraucha

OMT - d700, d3s, d300 may hide Your technique, d800 will expose it w/o any hesitation.

I totally agree. I had to step up my technique to keep up with the D800.  The other day, my wife picked up the D800 to take some snapshots of family that was over...(cringe)

"Hey these pictures are not in focus!" she says.

"Yeah, hon, it ain't no point 'n shoot."

Symphotic

I find it hard to believe that the resolution difference between a D800 and a D700 is so big that it requires special glass. ....

I find it difficult to believe that the resolution of the D800 requires more expensive glass than Kodachrome 25 or 64.  I have most of the expensive Nikkor G lenses at work (all the 2.8 zooms and all but the 35mm 1.4 primes) and I can get excellent results with these as well as most of my older manual focus lenses I used on the F2s.

Lenses are important, but not as important as choosing the right aperture, shutter speed and ISO as well as holding the camera steady.  

Correlli

I find it difficult to believe that the resolution of the D800 requires more expensive glass than Kodachrome 25 or 64.

I was looking for film resolution as well when I thought about it and I did find some older data sheets. According to those the Kodachrome film did not have such a high resolution at all (surprised me as well). According to the Kodak data sheet Kodachrome 25, 64 200 are all rated with a resolution of 100 line pairs per mm (lp/mm) at an test contrast of 1000:1. Fuji Velvia 50 (RVP) is rated with 160 lp/mm (according to the Fuji data sheet).

JJ_SO

Lenses are important, but not as important as choosing the right aperture, shutter speed and ISO as well as holding the camera steady.  

Well, this is true believe.
L-)
I disagree anyway, except with the last bit and it's good to know that old rules such as the fraction of focus length gives you the longest possible shutter speed, no longer apply. But only in 100% view. If you're not magnifying the picture more than 100% were before (which is 33% when comparing D700 files to D800? Or 58% ? ), you probably see no big difference. Maybe you should try, if you dare to change knowledge against believe?

boburk

I had he same question as the OP.
Reading from the post I am learning that you should not max the apperture and the zoom.
With that said, it looks like all my test result will be off.
I went to local rental camera store, bringing my D800, measuring tapeand a table of my lens wish list.
Testing at the minimum and maximum zoom at the fastest apperture possible.
Definition for sharpness is if I can see the lines on the measuring tape at 45 degree angle from the sensor plane. I am not talking about out of focus. Yes it requires fine adjustment on almost all of them. I am looking at the sharpness where it focus.
24-70 2.8 was not sharp on both 24 and 70.
28-85 3.5-4.5 was not sharp on 28, but was reasonably sharp at 85.
24-120 4 was sharp on both
70-200 2.8 VRI was nat shap on 70, but sharp on 200.
70-200 2.8 VRII was sharp both 70 and 200.
70-200 4 was sharp on both.

Another factor that may contribute the false data is that when I shoot, I should mark where I stand. Consistant distance for specific zoom setup. If you do that you will guarantee the same object size on the picture. If I do it again, you may want to specify distance from where to stand for 28mm, 70mm and 200mm.

spraynpray

"Another factor that may contribute the false data is that when I shoot, I should mark where I stand."

I wouldn't trust any test of sharpness where the camera was not on a good tripod. [-X

JJ_SO

Exactly! Even the head of the tripod can change the results. Mirror up and self-timer or remote is obligatory. I would go as far to doubt each result, especially with rental lenses, except you tell, it was lensrentals.com, for these guys appear to have a massive QC.

TaoTeJared

Sorry Boburk but that is not the best way to test a lens on the D800 or any camera at all. Tripod is #1, and base ISO set at 100 is #2, Shutter speed 1/2+ of focal length if on a tripod and a whole slew of other things including the object you are shooting. I have a couple of lenses that do not perform well - on the D800 and on the D300, D50, etc.

Ok film guys - Gigabitfilm - Zeiss ZM lenses were able to resolve 400 lp/mm on it. That was from 2004. The normal highest film is AGFA Ortho 35mm Black and White Negative print - 330 l/mm. I believe T-Max 100 is 200 l/mm. If lenses for decades can resolve on that level, so can current ones.


I know many like Thom - http://www.bythom.com/rationallenses.htm - here is his results for every focal length.

spraynpray

That is the first time I've read that Tao - interesting indeed. :-?

Correlli

Ok film guys - Gigabitfilm - Zeiss ZM lenses were able to resolve 400 lp/mm on it. That was from 2004. The normal highest film is AGFA Ortho 35mm Black and White Negative print - 330 l/mm. I believe T-Max 100 is 200 l/mm. If lenses for decades can resolve on that level, so can current ones.

I always wanted to test that Gigabit film and see how the images look like, but I never did. Did anyone?

I did use Agfa Ortho for creating b&w slides (reproductions of b&w negatives) and I really liked it. And you are right about T-Max and 200 lp/mm (with test contrast of 1000:1).

One thing we might tend to forget when we compare film with digital is that with film we would see the characteristics (read: imperfections) of two lenses in the final product (the one for taking the image and the one for projection/enlargement). With digital we simply zoom into the image. The display might change the colors, but it should not add any optical influence to the image.

But I digress and do not want to go too far of the topic...

I know many like Thom - http://www.bythom.com/rationallenses.htm - here is his results for every focal length.

Interesting article, thanks!

Msmoto

"Testing" a lens requires a lot of measures to insure there is no operator error. I like a tripod/head good for about 40 pounds, minimum. If a lens with a tripod mount, two tripods, one for body, one for lens. This avoids and vibration and creates a rock solid base. Also, I shoot several shots at the same settings, then compare in post to pick the sharpest or detect any variation in technique. And as has been mentioned, mirror up, self timer or other release. Unless one has a very long (over five seconds) exposure, the vibration from the camera mirror/shutter could be a factor. It takes a great deal of care and the ability to throw out results if any operator error is detected.

adamz

tommie - this way of testing is ok if You have time and need to know which lens is the best in "theory". in practice, I just put the lens on and do some regular shooting, than I switch to another lens and than compare the results.

Ratatoskr

Not quite true with the Nikon 14-24 F2.8.
I'm waiting and waiting for a well worth wide angle zoom and have been checking on this lens a lot. No doubt it's a superb lens and the best available in the super wide angle zoom lens division but with a D800 it is showing some really nasty issues. There are a lot of D800 users with this lens complaining about it being SO soft at the edges that it's actually completely out of focus and unusable and some say they need to stop down to at least f5.6 to get good shots and others say they need to go all the way to f8 until they will not see the soft edges anymore. I don't remember which focal lengths or if it was throughout the zoom length. In any case, I don't want that an expensive and HEAVY large, non filter (normal ones), lens not to give at least acceptable edge sharpness at at least f4, so the lens is out for me. I'll wait for one the works better on the D800, or if it takes too many years I'll go with a cheaper one with those issues.

PB_PM

I think many mix up soft edges for areas of the frame that are simply out of focus. In the case of the 14-24 that would depend on the distance of focus and the focal length used.

Msmoto

@ Adam....Yes, I agree. But, when I tested the 70-200mm f/2.8VRII Nikkor with the TC-14EII and TC-20EIII, I used the double tripod so as to completely eliminate any operator error. And, it will generate some interesting looks...

In reality, I do not have any soft lenses. Some are better than others, especially wide open, but they all are good. Interestingly enough, the PAD post today is the 400mm f.2.8VRII plus the TC-20EIII, and the image is from a crop size of less than a 4/3rds sensor.. Now this is a test, if one wants to really see what the "poor girl's" 800mm f/5.6 will do. I think a D800 might be good in this situation, LOL

JJ_SO

@Ratatoskr: Have you tried the Zeiss ZF 15/2.8? It's only double the price of 14-24 and should satisfy you
Yes it has "flaws", it's flaring a lot in direct sunlight, heavy and, well, you already named it. And still it's a favorite to me, I like it's micro contrast and the way it renders the subjects that I almost find it 3-D like. I've done some shots with open aperture and up to 6400 ISO No other lens would have made possible and I never had the impression, it has soft edges. But it should be clear, that it's very difficult to get a plane focus area with it.

I would not use it to check a brickwall if all bricks at the outer edges are sharp at 2.8 at every focuslength - that just makes no sense at all. Using such a wideangle, you either need some DOF or you play with soft parts in the picture (which is possible at closer focus distances).

I know an architecture-pro, who use it on his Canon usually at 18mm (no distortion and he's stitching the pictures for big size panos). This guy is not critical for ultimate sharpness, but for super micro contrast and with that lens he's happy - so am I :x

Msmoto

My experience with the wider lenses is the plane of focus is not necessarily flat. A Zeiss 28mm f/2 was this way and I chose to get the Nikkor 24mm f/1.4 instead. The new Zeiss 15mm is something to lust over...I will await a lot of examples on PAD before I drop that kind of money into a lens I have covered already.

Ratatoskr

If I had an average salary or better I might have considered buying a prime wide angle and a Zeiss would then be high on that list but my money doesn't allow me to save that amount and then get another wide angle with larger focal length. It's also an issue that I can only carry so much stuff on board a plane and having one wide angle zoom is better than two separate lenses + the weight which I'm trying to minimize in clothing, dried food, etc for my around the world camping expedition. In another thread I post the ratio of my different photography areas and landscape and large animals account for 10% so I can't justify such expensive prime wide angle. I will be doing quite some large mammal predator photography on this tour but I won't be in great need of a wide angle.

I'd be more than happy to hear more recommendations for a good and preferably light weight and small sized wide angle zoom, if there exists any
I will have some good use for a wide angle lens on Galapagos since the wildlife there is very used to humans and get close to you.
A consideration would also be to have it used when I dive.

I know I'm asking for too much, so anything that comes anywhere close to this I'll consider.

Ratatoskr

Judging by the lack of recommendations I guess my research was spot on, there is no lens even close to my wishes, and I know a lot of other photographers with same dilemma.

spraynpray

I would have recommended the 18-55VR Ratatoskr but you would need to shoot cropped....

JJ_SO

How do you think, would be such a zoom designed? Ask again, when there's a FF mirrorless, but before the manufacturers already need some elements just to work around the mirror case. And what is lightweight with a FF DSLR, anyway?

Ratatoskr

I would have recommended the 18-55VR Ratatoskr but you would need to shoot cropped....

Thanks spraynpray, that could maybe be an option. I will look into it.

Ratatoskr

How do you think, would be such a zoom designed? Ask again, when there's a FF mirrorless, but before the manufacturers already need some elements just to work around the mirror case. And what is lightweight with a FF DSLR, anyway?

That is not a concern of mine, I'm not producing lenses. Customers have wishes and needs and the producers try to accommodate that.
I shouldn't have to explain what light weight is in that segment. Just check the lenses available and you'll see which ones are light weight among them. Give you and example of what's definitely NOT light weight, or small for that matter, the Nikkor 14-24.

GhostRider117

Hi,

Considering the pixel rich sensor of D800, it looks difficult to pick correct lens that would optimally resolve the camera. As a matter of fact, even 24-70mm suffers. Which lens will be ideal to tap D800 to its full potential?

Thanks and happy New Year to you !

SilverLines

Fact? $2,000 pro lens that is rated one of the best in production is not good for the D800 - No.  If you actually believe that, then there is no lens ever made that would be sufficient.  Pixel peepers and resolution focused reviewers shouldn't do lens reviews.  Bokeh, distortion, CAs, af speed, build quality I believe are much more important than 100 lines of resolution or about 1mm of print area spread out on a 8x10.

All the mid to higher end lenses look great with the D800 and are used to their full potential.  I have a serious hard time with the thought process that you need a better lens for the D800.  It is just backwards.  I think all other bodies don't take advantage of what lenses can offer and the D800 does.  The D800 didn't change anything, some lenses are still resolve more and are sharper in certain uses than others.  
It is smarter to buy a lens that you need for your work.  My 60mm macro probably resolves the best, but it is not the lens I need or could use for 90% of my work.  

Amen to that... The point is to get the right lens for what you want to do.

Yes, you could buy an optically perfect 35mm lens but... If your subject is a squirrel, or a bird, or an ant... you'll end up with even worse than a picture which needs to be corrected for 1 pixel-wide CA (i.e. invisible for most usual print sizes), that is... no picture at all.

Golf007sd

@Ratatoskr Try getting your hands on the 70-200 f/4.

With respect to weight (and size) I highly recommend you getting yourself a Black Rapid RS-7. I can cary my 70-200 2.8 or 14-24 2.8 all day long with easy.