Undecided between UV Filters

adamz

TTJ +1 on the t-shirt, I clean exactly the same way

ChasCS

Yikes, take your chances much guys?

I was told by my eyeglass manufacturers, to simply Never clean my $500.00 eyeglasses with my teeshirt, or any other dry cloth for that matter.

Lens tissues with a squirt of lens cleaner will and does the job best.
The Hell, I'm going to rub my $2,500+, AF-S 80-400mm front element, or even a $175.00 lens filter for that matter either...

A pack of lens tissues is so cheap, and yet, evidently near Priceless!! Don't short change yourselves, eh??!!

A clean Micro fibre in a gentle pinch! Very...

Ironheart

Body fluids and t-shirts have always worked for me. Do you know how hard it is to scratch glass even with sand? And, scratches on front elements and/or filters never show up on images. They might cause a bit of reflection, but I have seen cracked front elements that produce fine images. If you think about it, glass is made from sand, which is then hardened by the application of heat and additional chemicals. If you don't believe me try scratching a car window with a handfull of sand...
Not for the squeamish:

ChasCS

Do you know how hard I had to work, to spend this kind of money on any of this top quality gear?
I will baby it like it's my own appendage.

Nice, but I have lens tissues and a bottle of lens cleaner, besides, my medication dries out my mouth.
And so, that leaves only one body fluid!! Yeah. Nah. Saving my tears, till I scratch my lens. Hahaha

I know if I clean my cache and cookies, I could probably load that video, but for others, the code to attaché in youtube search window is vzOLbMPe0u8.

I wish there was a way to get these videos to play directly here? **** ;-)


Please read the commentary at YouTube, below the video:
Canon Glass -
note: everyone, the lens was already broken! the only reason i bothered was curiosity. it was way broken before i shot this video. bored, so i decided to ...

I'll certainly let you do that to my new 80-400, just give me a $2500 deposit, and have at her friend.
Then you can keep it, as it won't be hurt, right... Hahaha PM me for my mailing address where to send the cheque.;-)

Oh no, here come those laughing fits I always experience at this kind of humor.

B+W sure make some fine, thin glass filters eh?
Or maybe it's just my heavy breathing on this glass, the way I see it bend... J/K

adamz

No offence ChasCS but it's a known issue among photographers that there are two groups. Those who cherish their equipment and those who shoot pictures I don't want to bid with you who works harder to get their stuff, but I was always adhering to the principle that the first thing you have to forget after buying camera/lens/any other thing is to forget how much you paid for it. This will give your mind the freedom to use it the way you want and not the way your mind rationalize it.

ChasCS

Adamz,
Yes ofcourse I get that, without any guessing. But this stuff isn't built out of Lego blocks.
You for one, have seen that 2m high stack of boxes that held my cherished gear. That was no chump change, friend.
I'm nearing ten large already, and that's in a little over two months my fellow comrad.
Overprotective, surely it doesn't show, does it!? Man, I don't even want to dent those gold boxes. ;-)

Yes, those old Cannon lens, front elements were crazy tough, yes.
So guys, show me your video, of you whacking the **** out your Nikon lenses, and I will bow down to you on one knee.
Heck, I'll even shake your hand. Ah, yeah, once you let go of the framing hammer. Hahaha

Thanks for the pep talk guys, it will help me tread less lightly on thee icy trails, and back woods photo hunts.

ThomasHorton

That's the key.

Ade

@ChasCS The eyeglass manufacturer may be 100% correct -- for eyeglasses.

Eyeglasses use single lens elements and typically there are coatings on each lens (such as anti-reflective AR coatings) which may be easily scratched. Perversely, many eyeglass lenses have a scratch-resistant hard layer underneath the AR coating, which does nothing to protect the topmost coating from getting scratched.

In contrast, camera lenses have multiple lens elements. This means that delicate coatings, such as Nikon's "Nano Crystal" coating, can be applied only on internal lens elements, protected from external scratches. And generally, few fine scratches on the front lens element won't noticeably affect the overall picture quality.

It's generally ok to clean camera lenses using a 100% cotton cloth as long as it's soft and clean. So in a pinch, a soft and clean 100% cotton T-shirt would work as well.

ChasCS

Ok, I understand, a clean teeshirt is all You need, to rub your lens the right way.

I'm still waiting to see someone go at a Nikkor lens with any hard object.
The way I see it, if my glass is kept clean, and used the correct ways, it will last longer and retain some resale value.

For those with expendable cash, can treat, or beat their lenses into submission, any way they choose.
For me, I prefer to use proper tools for the job.

By the way, many modern eyeglasses actually have two pieces of glass, not just one.
The Progressive lens coating is in between the lens sides, if you have glasses that change color in bright light, there are two lenses.

TaoTeJared

Eyeglasses are not relevant as they are hardly manufactured to the same degree of camera lenses. They may share marketing terms but that is it. Many are not even made of glass anymore.

TTJ, I understand about just grabbing the edge of your t-shirt to clean a filter. Don't you carry one of those small microfiber cleaners that fold back onto it's self into a small holder

Same difference. I buy microfiber clothes by the box, but they never seem to be close by With the newest coated filters, they are really easy to clean and almost nothing sticks to them no matter what cloth. Suntan oil, bug spray, splash or over spray from something, anything that is left tacky on your hand and you reach back for your camera and add a fingerprint to the front of the lens/filter, there is endless garbage that will stick to it. I want to clean it fast with little effort.

I get some really baby their gear, I do as well (to a point) but as Ironheart said "Do you know how hard it is to scratch glass..."? Just look at your everyday glassware in your kitchen, how scratched up it that? And now how many sinks, scouring pads, rings, silverware dropped in it has it been subject to over the years. I'm guessing what most would notice is buildup of X that makes it foggy more than scratches. (I'm not worried about build up.) Really what one has to worry about is coatings on the outside of a lens. They are there and yes it is difficult to damage, but I just don't see the reason to chance it. Most concerns are just hold-overs from 20 years ago when a fingernail could scratch coatings.

One other thing about filters is that they also will complete "weather/element" seals on many lenses that have a front recessed element that moves.

It is just about anything in life, you get what you pay for. Put cheap or old filters on, you get cheap results. I don't buy B&W filters for the pure reason they have not marked their filters with distinct identifiers that tell me what "model" or if it is the newest model they are. It is just not clear and too difficult to tell from on-line sellers. I have a few old B&W filters that ghost and have reflections that are really bad. I read they make better, but I can't tell which are the new models or leftovers from years ago.

I don't get why there are "two camps" as if you buy the best lens, and buy the best filter, you won't see a difference.

Ade

By the way, many modern eyeglasses actually have two pieces of glass, not just one.
The Progressive lens coating is in between the lens sides, if you have glasses that change color in bright light, there are two lenses.

Hi ChasCS, sorry but you're way off there. Progressive lenses (and photochromic lenses which change color) are not made from two pieces of glass. Progressives are constructed from two surfaces of the same glass, i.e., the front-side and the back-side of one glass or plastic blank. And AR coatings if any are still applied "on top" of the lens.

The detailed construction of these eyeglass lenses is off-topic even by NRF standards (even though Nikon makes them) so feel free to PM me for details if interested. But needless to say, they cannot be compared to multi-element camera lenses.

tektrader

The Hoya Pro1 and the Kenko Pro1 are the same filter. You might get a better deal on the Kenko. I know I did.....

Ironheart

Chas, you wanted to see someone hammer on a Nikon?


YouTube search D1tTBncIsm8
http://petapixel.com/2010/08/23/canon-versus-nikon-destruction-tests/

TaoTeJared

The Hoya Pro1 and the Kenko Pro1 are the same filter. You might get a better deal on the Kenko. I know I did.....

This is a common myth that is spread everywhere. They are not the same filter. The Kenko uses older different tech to make the filters and a bit lower grade of glass than Hoya who uses the newest best of everything. That came from a Hoya/Kenko/Tokina rep who said when Hoya updates their process & machinery, the old stuff keeps producing and makes the Kenko brand. I of course asked if anyone could tell the difference in IQ with either and tried to convince me the Hoya was better but probably not by much.

Ade

Glenn Nash, the Technical Representative for Kenko Tokina USA, has confirmed multiple times that the Kenko and Hoya Pro1-D products are identical. Google his name to find out more.

My own understanding of the current situation:

We need to separate Hoya the company vs. Hoya the brand.

Hoya's optics division does not actually manufacture any retail consumer filters. They are an industrial OEM, making optical glass blanks, lens elements, glass moulding preforms, etc.

Kenko Tokina Co. manufactures a variety of filters at different price points. Depending on the country, some of these filters are sold under the Kenko brand name, and others are sold under the Hoya brand name, via a brand-licensing agreement with Hoya.

For example, the Pro1 Digital line is officially imported and distributed in the US only under the Hoya brand name. However, in other countries, the Pro1 Digital line is sold under the Kenko brand name.

So in the US, at stores like Adorama or B&H will sell Hoya Pro1 Digital, not Kenko. But if you go to Sweden, you will find Kenko Pro1 Digital, instead of Hoya.

(By the way, I believe the Pro1 Digital line is being phased out.)

The new mid-line filter product is called the Hoya EVO in the US, but is sold under the REVO name in UK and Germany. As with the Pro1-D, the Hoya EVO / REVO line is produced by Kenko Tokina Co.

ChasCS

Chas, you wanted to see someone hammer on a Nikon?


YouTube search D1tTBncIsm8
http://petapixel.com/2010/08/23/canon-versus-nikon-destruction-tests/

So, nice all you have done, is repost links to video from my own previous thread.
http://forum.nikonrumors.com/discussion/2092/le-crash-test-du-nikon-d3s#Item_10
Why? To what purpose does this show us?
Besides, that isn't your test camera or video, I want to see you bust a seasonal walnut on your own lens, stand up and be counted Man. Don't let those busy "Squirrels" in the video do your dirty work for you, get Your hands dirty, comeon!! J/K

Anyway, I don't think any one of you will take this challenge on your own gear, so let's forget about this endeavor, shall we.
I think the valid points have already been shared, and we can all rest assured, our Nikon gear is combat~battle ready.

Happy my lens will handle quite a bruising and will survive everything I can throw at it..
Still going to use correct cleaning techniques, and be proud of my photos and personal pride with any and all gear used.
I doubt a thin lens filter can handle abuses the same way as a lens, and several of you have already mentioned crushing experiences, where the camera or lens were dropped, and the filter shattered with only a bruised ego to the lens itself. That's sweet, fortunate too obviously.

It's surprising how material is used in different ways, by different companies, and also how the same product with be known by a different brand name, depending which shore you live closest to. That has always struck me as odd, hmm??

I would only use a lens pen on treated lens glass, damp lens cloth on a filter material.
I will not use any material on a lens where the GIOTTOS blower hasn't been used first, to remove all heavier dust particles.
Those blowers are a real blast.

sevencrossing

So, Does anyone have a test to decided if their filter needs replacing ?

Photobug

So, Does anyone have a test to decided if their filter needs replacing ?

After shooting pictures for over 40 years, I just replaced my first filter. The lens was only 7 years old and it had an excellent Hoya multicoated filter on it. When I was cleaning my lens after a shooting session I saw a small chip in the lens near the center. It looked like a stone chip you see on the windshield.

So I went out and bought a new filter. I am not aware of any "test" that tells you to replace a filter. Every time I clean a lens I look for chips and scratches. Just use common sense. You don't need a "justification" to go out and buy a new filter.