Just a confession: after 3 years using Nikon I still have troubles to unscrew the rear caps. Wrong direction and either way the caps (LF-1 as LF-4) are too tight or too lose. Sometimes I transport the stuff in a bike bag and if the rear caps are not tightend enough, they get loose after some bumps. Because I tightened them sometimes a bit too much, I had problems to unmount the caps, especially in a situation I would need a third hand.
Now, after discovering what Sigma did with their LCR NA II caps for the new lines of lenses and enjoying the smoothness of putting their caps on and off with only one hand necessary, I ordered for each lens a Sigma rear cap. After all they were not more expensive than the old Nikon LF-1 caps and it's great to use them. Why?
I can remove the cap by holding the lens and unscrewing the cap with my thumb and index finger and mount the uncovered lens to the camera in my other hand.
How did they do that?
Those three elements are designed like a spring. They grab the counter part of the lens' bayonet, but they don't need to be "screwed". They just stay in place with little physical effort. Nikon's caps are really stiff, therefore one needs to tighten them and because I still turn in the wrong direction when I want to remove the cap, I tighten them unwillingly again. That's not possible with the new Sigma caps.
And another habit I kept from those front caps with the slippery surfaces (to my fingertips): always when I buy a new lens I engrave some deep tracks into the handles of the front cap. I use long nose pliers with some teeth on them. Now the caps don't slip so easily off my fingers.
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One of my Tamron lens has a Tamron rear lens cap and I hate it. The Nikon rears are better than Tamron. They don't come off easily.
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Actually, the older Nikon caps are better- on my dad's FM2 at least, the body cap and rear lens caps are both opaque plastic. They're pretty thin but grip quite well to the lens at least.
From what I've seen, Nikon also used to make metal rear lens caps. Moose Peterson seems to have a couple. They look pretty, but in practice I don't know how practical t hey are.
Everybody else: If you have problems with the front cap popping out of your fingers when attaching/detaching your cap with the lens hood in place you could try something I do: I stick small rectangular pieces of sticky backed silicone rubber onto the inner area that JJ_SO scratches deeply with pliers (I typically use the waste part from those small packs of cupboard door buffers). You will find perfect grip without resorting to the scratching technique (which doubtless works, this is a reversible alternative).
Now if only somebody had as good a tip to get Nikon to release the D400.... :-?
Maybe I order two or four more to glue them pairwise opposite side together, like I had it before. It just have to be a quite good Epoxy 2 component material. It simplifies lens changing, as long as the lenses are no heavy telephoto ones. I don't nee to hold three independant items. And there's bit better used space in my bag. On second thought, that was a good idea (not mine originally) when I only had two lenses of "normal" dimensions.
I may do that with my 35 & 50.
I also have glued two old Nikon rear caps together.
The other kind is the colored ones from DSLR Color Cap
I'm always losing body caps and wanted to use color to denote different primes in my bag. They are much easier to see for sure.
Sigma rear caps are good as well.
I'm not seeing how that is useful. Can someone enlighten me on this?
Also, sometimes I go "slim", with one body and one or two lenses. With that glued caps you always only need one hand to hold two lenses, that makes it easier to change. It's more for primes, I'd say, bur with them I found it very useful.
I place my order directly with Sigma via their website...they seemed to have the best price @ $4 each.
Thanks JJ_SO for bring this to our attention.
$4 is pretty cool, I paid 9 € per piece Anyway, it's worth it. I also have now double deckers, but next time I'll be more careful with gluing at higher temperatures. 100°C only, if the oven delivers stable temperatures.