Heavy Duty Tripod Heads (and Panorama Heads)

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Comments

  • JJ_SOJJ_SO Posts: 1,158Member
    edited July 2013
    Just in case, someone want to check directly @Dissent 's solution: Here's a link to the adapter. Clever thing and although one guy was reporting "never go back" because the quick release of manfrotto has to disappear: It's still possible to put in in place again. I like non-destructive solutions.

    Hejnar makes some amazing solutions, nicely packed with stainless steel screws. Only thing I'd do with that adapter for geared heads; make countersink for the screws. I'm afraid otherwise they'll get loose in time.

    Thanks for bringing it to attention, Dissent. It's bookmarked in case I'll do the switch as well.
    Post edited by JJ_SO on
  • spraynprayspraynpray Posts: 6,545Moderator
    "Only thing I'd do with that adapter for geared heads; make countersink for the screws. I'm afraid otherwise they'll get loose in time. - See more at: http://forum.nikonrumors.com/discussion/1180/heavy-duty-tripod-heads-and-panorama-heads#Item_76"

    The other night I walked three hundred metres on a pebble path and across a huge beach to shoot some sunset shots. When I got there I put up the tripod and found the large main locking knob gone! I was so screwed but I looked for it anyway. I retraced my steps looking at millions of knog size and coloured pebbles then 30 ft from my car I found it!

    I have put loctite thread locker on that thread so that it has enough friction at the thread to stop that happening again!

    PS @JJ_SO countersinking does not affect the ability of a screw to resist loosening, it is to lose the head flush or under flush for aesthetic or related functional reason i.e. to give clearance or to improve handling. You need anti vibration washers of some kind or loctite (NOT high strength retainer). You can even get shake-proof countersunk washers if you want, but countersinking isn't enough on its own.
    Always learning.
  • JJ_SOJJ_SO Posts: 1,158Member
    If a countersink screw is put into a non-countersink hole, the screw's head is only attached on a small ring. The holes in the 405 head have only one countersink hole. The other two are meant to hold the unused camera-screw, either 1/4 or 3/8". It's better if the head is pressed against maximum surface. Anyway, it's only one hole to modify, so the adapter is a clever piece of equipment.

    Good you found your locking knob. Years ago, after cycling 1080 m up and climbing a tower to do some panoramas, the tripod screw fell from the tower in the gras. Didn't find it again, I couldn't watch it falling. So, no panoramas then.

  • MsmotoMsmoto Posts: 5,398Moderator
    edited July 2013
    @dissent

    Do the Hejner kits come as a direct conversion or is some extra modification required? I converted four heads using Surui and Sunwayfoto clamps, but had to do some drilling and such to obtain a perfect fit.

    And, Loctite Blue is what I use...can be removed but will not become loose except in extremely unusual conditions.

    Post edited by Msmoto on
    Msmoto, mod
  • spraynprayspraynpray Posts: 6,545Moderator
    That's the one Msmoto. The wrong one is red.
    Always learning.
  • JJ_SOJJ_SO Posts: 1,158Member
    Although you asked Dissent, Msmoto, I'd say it comes completely ready made. One just needs to dismount the QR mechanic of manfrotto, and that can be done with ease.

    Also., the plates have hex head screws and an allen key is included and sometimes can be stored in the adapter. Some thoughtful design.
  • dissentdissent Posts: 1,342Member
    edited July 2013
    What JJ_SO said, Msmoto. Didn't need to do any machining work (good thing, 'cause I'm not as skilled as I'd like to be). The 498 ball head was just removing the screw on the RC2, which needed an extension helper wrench in my case, but came off with just that little bit of extra effort. The Hejnar piece fits right onto the Manfrotto post sticking out of the ball. The 410 adapter requires disassembly and removal of the spring loaded Manfrotto clamp plate, but other than that it's just two screws. Full pdf instructions are available on the hejnarphoto web page.

    I'm keeping the old RC2 parts in storage bags (for old times sake, I hope. /crosses fingers)
    Post edited by dissent on
    - Ian . . . [D7000, D7100; Nikon glass: 35 f1.8, 85 f1.8, 70-300 VR, 105 f2.8 VR, 12-24 f4; 16-85 VR, 300 f4D, 14E-II TC, SB-400, SB-700 . . . and still plenty of ignorance]
  • Ryan_in_AZRyan_in_AZ Posts: 13Member
    I recently sold a kidney, a beloved pet, and a nephew and was barely able to purchase my RRS TVC-33 tripod, universal leveling base, and BH-55 ball head. It was worth it.
  • MsmotoMsmoto Posts: 5,398Moderator
  • FreezeActionFreezeAction Posts: 909Member
    I spoke with RRS today about this upcoming fluid mount. Should be here within two months. I didn't bother to ask about price yet. I will buy from the top of the tripod up.

  • MaxBerlinMaxBerlin Posts: 86Member
    RRS tripod and ballhead. A dozen problems settled with that purchase. There is no equal IMHO.
    My non-commercial blog:

    https://sonyvnikon.wordpress.com/
  • paulrpaulr Posts: 1,176Member
    I think I am becoming a collector
    A gathering of Heads 2
    Camera, Lens and Tripod and a few other Bits
  • PhotobugPhotobug Posts: 5,751Member
    @paulr - wow what a collection. You could be a spokesperson for RRS. :D
    Seriously, you should write a review on these heads and send it to Peter for consideration on posting it.
    Seriously, very nice.
    D750 & D7100 | 24-70 F2.8 G AF-S ED, 70-200 F2.8 AF VR, TC-14E III, TC-1.7EII, 35 F2 AF D, 50mm F1.8G, 105mm G AF-S VR | Backup & Wife's Gear: D5500 & Sony HX50V | 18-140 AF-S ED VR DX, 55-300 AF-S G VR DX |
    |SB-800, Amaran Halo LED Ring light | MB-D16 grip| Gitzo GT3541 + RRS BH-55LR, Gitzo GM2942 + Sirui L-10 | RRS gear | Lowepro, ThinkTank, & Hoodman gear | BosStrap | Vello Freewave Plus wireless Remote, Leica Lens Cleaning Cloth |
  • PB_PMPB_PM Posts: 4,494Member
    @Photobug Might want to look closer, I don't see any RRS heads there...
    If I take a good photo it's not my camera's fault.
  • paulrpaulr Posts: 1,176Member
    Your right PB-PM Most are Manfrotto The Manfrotto 268 will hold anything and I have the Manfrotto geared head for macro work, Now that is built like a tank, Used most of the heavy gear for Medium Format cameras but now I am 35mm and lighter only.
    Camera, Lens and Tripod and a few other Bits
  • PhotobugPhotobug Posts: 5,751Member
    Opps, I thought there were several RRS heads in that picture.
    D750 & D7100 | 24-70 F2.8 G AF-S ED, 70-200 F2.8 AF VR, TC-14E III, TC-1.7EII, 35 F2 AF D, 50mm F1.8G, 105mm G AF-S VR | Backup & Wife's Gear: D5500 & Sony HX50V | 18-140 AF-S ED VR DX, 55-300 AF-S G VR DX |
    |SB-800, Amaran Halo LED Ring light | MB-D16 grip| Gitzo GT3541 + RRS BH-55LR, Gitzo GM2942 + Sirui L-10 | RRS gear | Lowepro, ThinkTank, & Hoodman gear | BosStrap | Vello Freewave Plus wireless Remote, Leica Lens Cleaning Cloth |
  • danhowldanhowl Posts: 36Member
    edited July 2015
    guess i'm odd, but I don't care for RRS except for plates and lens foots (feet?). While not dismissing their quality, the pieces I have examined are over-built for the purposes they are intended. They are not the choice for the weight conscious. There are several other choices for travel/location gear. There are equally robust but easier functioning choices for studio gear.

    Personally I think the the FOBA Superball is unequalled. I really like the lever to set the tension (with fine adjust/drag being a knob). It is just faster to set than knobs. It is usually my first choice. In studio it is always on my camera stand. I also frequently rely on it for location shoots. However, when I fly with gear I am generally down to the ounce with baggage allowance and work with the MiniSuperball.

    I also have and also use:
    the original: Arca-Swiss ball head
    for travel: FOBA Mini Superball (with Feisol panning base)
    for monopod: Feisol small ball head
    (all with Arca-Swiss style quick-release tops)

    If you haven't seen them Feisol (www.feisol.net) is a great option for a Arca-Swiss style ball head (knob tension set) at lower cost. They come in 4 sizes. One size has a carbon-fiber outer sleeve. I rely on one of their Tournament tripods for all of my location shoots (though I still own 3 sizes of Gitzo). I'm a huge cheerleader for them since I found them at a PhotoExpo, but I am strictly not paid to endorse them at all (unfortunately).

    If I was in the market now and didn't already have SO many ball heads, I would stingily consider the large Feisol at roughly a quarter of the cost of the Foba Superball--not a head-to-head equal, but would cover 90% of my usage.

    edit: I do see a Feisol ball head in Paul's collection
    Post edited by danhowl on
    D3X, D800, 17-35, 28-70, Zeiss 55mm OTUS, 85mm Zeiss CF.2, 85mm PCE, 70-200 VRII, 105DC
  • paulrpaulr Posts: 1,176Member
    For Macro Work I use a Manfrott Precision Geared Head, This allows for mm movement in all directions
    Macro EquipmentDanhowl Yes that is a Feisol head but i find the so called quick release not so quick release.
    Camera, Lens and Tripod and a few other Bits
  • danhowldanhowl Posts: 36Member
    that set up looks like it will come to life on its own!
    D3X, D800, 17-35, 28-70, Zeiss 55mm OTUS, 85mm Zeiss CF.2, 85mm PCE, 70-200 VRII, 105DC
  • paulrpaulr Posts: 1,176Member
    Danhowl It never moves , just what you what for Macro work, I use it with CamRanger so i do not have to go near it once it is set up[Manual lens}.
    Camera, Lens and Tripod and a few other Bits
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