I bought my new D3200 a couple of days before a holiday, took it along thinking I'd be coming back with some great shots but have been sorely disappointed with the results. I used the auto and auto close up options for all the shots, and used manual focus for some and auto focus for others, using both 18-55 and 55-300 VR lenses. I'm a novice, I have never learned much about photography but have used a dslr before , my previous camera was a Canon Rebel XTi which always took great photos without a lot of effort. A lot of the photos taken with the D3200 are out of focus or just not very sharp, and the few that are in focus are pretty flat and lacking in vibrancy and depth, and distort if I zoom in . I'd read such great reviews for this camera, does it need calibrating or am I just expecting too much from it? I'd like to post some examples but can't see how to?
Comments
http://forum.nikonrumors.com/discussion/46/how-to-post-a-photo-on-photo-a-day-new-instructions#Item_118
And these are some test shots taken today using the auto close up option and 18-55 VR lens.
My personal findings were this: The D3200 is AN AMAZING camera. The D3300 is even better. I NOW use the 18-55VR MOST of the time on that camera. I found that using the camera on P (Program) was far superior. I also shoot a fair amount in A (Aperture) and adjust the depth of field to what I want. I find that the D3200 is default oriented to very shallow (and to me greatly disappointing depth of field). Once I started using a single focus grid (pretty hard to see in some lighting) and making sure the point I wanted in sharp focus was right, then shoot landscape in Aperture and fast stuff in Program I was VERY satisfied with the camera! JUst make sure what you want is focused and that your depth of field is what you want. I USE THE + - key a LOT using this camera. In full daylight normal settings I almost always use 0.7 MINUS. In snow often it is 0.3 PLUS. To me if you don't get a properly saturated photo with excellent color the shot is worthless!
One shot I notice in particular NOT SHOT THE WAY I WOULD is the last one of the flowers and gardening tool.
That is NOT the way you saw the scene! On aperture at around f11 (after that diffraction starts to kick in) you'd get a more realistic depth of field. To Me you don't want to FORCE the viewer to look at some spot in the photo
( tres bizzare way of thinking to me) but get the whole close up in as near to what you saw as possible. I will even go further down in f stops if needed to get things the way our eyes would see it.
So in words that a complete novice can understand, what camera settings would you use to get in focus detail shots of animals and birds through an 18-55 or 55-300 lens?
What focus settings are you using? Single point? Auto? Thanks.
@AbbyJ
I have a few suggestions I would for you to try and I hope they help.
The 18-55mm lens is a pretty good lens that has VR stabilization that needs to be 'turned on', and likely is, but be sure that it is on the barrel of the lens. Also, you'll want to hold the camera with really steady technique to get nice steady shots.
Fully automatic settings usually means that you will make nice pictures a lot times, but miss a lot, too. You can make a lot more keepers if you make your automatic settings your way. And that isn't really very hard.
Your camera has a couple things I would suggest that you get familiar with and use. One is the shooting modes. PSAM - Program, Shutter, Aperture, and Manual - I use Aperture (generally) and really it's just another way of shooting automatic - I'm setting an f-stop and the camera sets the shutter - I'm paying some attention to the shutter speed so I know that it won't blur the photo. There is some more info on page 53 of your manual, but the idea is that your can really can control of your images with those modes (and do it with automatic control).
The second part is the auto focus. I tend to use a single control point to auto focus. That cause less confusion when faced with the peacock and you can put the focal point on the head, press and lock the focus recompose and fire the shutter.
From the image "EXIF" data on your Flickr stream, the main issue seems to be that your D3200 is selecting shutter speeds which are much too slow for the current zoom setting. As a result you are getting motion blur especially when you are using the long end of that 55-300 zoom.
I don't know if this is normal behavior for the D3200's Auto mode when VR is enabled. As @MikeGunter suggests will want to get out of Auto mode sooner rather than later.
There is a "minimum shutter speed" setting for your camera's "Auto ISO" feature but I believe this setting is ignored while in Auto mode.
@AbbyJ
I didn't see any EXIF data on the photo of the peacock, but at enlargement, it did seem somewhat blurry, what was the ISO, the shutter speed, and focal length? If the shutter speed was to long, it could be camera movement.
Upping the ISO would help or using a tripod (but then turn off the VR - ironic isn't it?).
My best,
Mike
Oops...
@Ade already posted...
I would, ah suggest that the P, S, A, of the PSAM, modes are a flavor of 'automatic' modes to be enjoyed by all. Aperture to control DOF and Shutter to control motion (simple talk, I know, but...) - and Program is a close, close cousin of Auto.
Using exposure compensation (to include flash compensation), and one can do a lot 'automatically'.
My very best,
Mike
My very brief suggestions:
1. First set the Picture Controls to Vivid. This will give you popping colors. Skin tones may be too red (depending upon the people photographed) and you may want to use Portrait setting for portraits of people so learn how to switch back and forth quickly between the Vivid and the Portrait picture control settings. This will make a big difference.
2. Find how to set your exposure compensation and set it to -0.3. This will deepen your colors.
3. Get out of AUTO and into Program Mode. Later you will want to move to A Mode, S Mode and Manual.
4. As soon as you can read up on Depth of Field and F-stop (also known as aperture). You need to know how to adjust the F-stop (aperture) with the camera in A Mode to be able to select your depth of field (how much of the image is in focus).
5. When confronted with needing to freeze a moving subject you will want to use S mode and learn what shutter speed to select to stop the subject's movement.
6. Finally, when you get to the level of sophistication where you want to set up a studio in your home and sue monolights, softboxes, etc, you will want to learn to use Manual mode.
You could also play with the Guide mode and see if that helps you. But it is best to learn to intelligently make your own decisions about what you want your camera to do for you to create the image you see in your head as you look at the subject.
In AUTO ISO Try
increase the shutter speed by 2 clicks and do NOT set any maximum ISO
In A, if you are not too sure what aperture to set, try F8 if there is a reasonable amount of light about
In poor light set it wide open
Do not "try" anything on anything important
just take lot of photographs close to home and examine them on your computer the same day
Use a faster shutter speed, up your ISO to 1600 if necessary, stop a zoom down one stop, and if you really want to learn how to shoot photos…… find a subject, then vary all the parameters…shutter speed from 1/60 sec up to 1/1000, aperture wide open to about three stops down, ISO from baseline to highest listed native ISO…….about a hundred shots…..
Then, examine in your post processing and decide what you think works…. almost every good photographer I know has done it this way…. we shoot thousands of images to learn. And the process does not stop…. at least for me I am learning all the time.