Tell me about this new D810 for deep space photography

Maadscientist

Partial Solar Eclipe D3200
http://www.astrobin.com/155977/

Maadscientist

Image number 111669 on your site is cool Maadscientist - care to talk us through how you got it?

M33 is a good target for people interested in galaxy imaging because it is big, but not too big like Andromeda. It has a bit of reasonable color, reds are H Alpha regions, blues are Globulars and hot star regions. That image was taken with the Opticstar camera, $1299, on an Astro Tech 12 inch Imaging Newt, $750 with a Coma Corrector, $175, riding on a Paramount MX, $8,000 and a guidescope setup, $600. You can do the tracking on a lesser expensive mount, no lower that $3,500. I think that one was 4, 4 minute exposures stacked in CCD Stack. I have become an expert at stretching and ferreting out signal from near the noise line. As a matter of fact, learning how to process astro images will make you a expert on regular stuff. We routinely have to deal with low signal, so when I process my daylight shots, it's like shooting fish in a barrel...

spraynpray

This one:

Maadscientist

I will revisit M33 in the future to get more exposure.Tracking, guiding, focus, electronics, all have to be hitting on all cylinders to get enough signal to work with. We all post varying stages of exposure of astronomical objects based on one's location to make us happy, then we go do it again and make it better.

Maadscientist

This one:

M33 from 2011 PSSG 16 minute integration

Yes that was 4, 4 minute exposures, guided for a total of 16 minutes

spraynpray

You know, one thing I have always thought but never investigated is that there MUST be a market for somebody with a damn good telescope to invest in Canon and Nikon mounts and do guided tours round the night sky accompanied with a few hints on how to capture and PP the images they get. I will be there as soon as I find someone who does it.

Maadscientist

Already done.

http://www.nightskiesnetwork.com/

nukuEX2

Yeahbut, why spend spend $3800 when you can buy a D810 for $3000 and pay someone $400 to convert it to astro or IR? Or better yet get a D800 refurb for $1500-$2000 and convert that. Same sensor, which is really all that matters for astro. It will be interesting to see if this is a wise choice by Nikon, or failed publicity stunt.

And why make the camera in the DSLR form factor? Nikon could've made the camera in some black rectangular box with a hole in the front for F-Mount/ Telescope interface and a pop up LCD along with a wired shutter trigger thingy. 8-|

Parke1953

Maybe you don't make as much for that thingy but i could like it.

spraynpray

What's that all about Maad?

Maadscientist

I don't understand your question.

Maadscientist

If you want to see how much data is on the H Alpha line, 656.3, here is a link to my shot with a H Alpha filter on the North America Nebula.

http://www.astrobin.com/full/156057/0/

Maadscientist

Here is a filter made by Astronomik that allows the user to clip in and get the Original IR filter specs by Canon for their 60Fa modified for Astro. Maybe they will make one for Nikon.

http://www.optcorp.com/ak-owbccd-eos-owb-original-white-balance-filter-type-3-canon-eos-clip.html

spraynpray

I don't understand your question.

I was referring to the link you published to nightskiesnetwork.com. I meant that I would happily pay someone by the hour who had the telescope and Nikon mount and who knew the settings to use their expertise to show me around the night sky so I could get images such as the one I posted the thumbnail of above. It would be kind of like a track day at the local race track - it gives you a taster and may even light a real passion.

spraynpray

Nikon may have a winner here.. I visit a astro / night scape photography forum .. and quite a number of people have been excited about this camera.. many are contemplating a switch to nikon !

So hearty, would you care to share that forums URL with us please?

scoobysmak

I love some of the pictures produced in astro but since I have not done my homework yet it seems the most expensive part of a setup is the tracking "mount". What I have not seen is the lenses used for this. Maybe I misunderstood, do the pros go and use a telescope but the amateurs use either smaller telescopes or a normal camera lens?

I figure there is a conversion around somewhere but have not found it yet to convert a camera lens in to a telescope "power". There might be more to it but for example, say you had a 400mm 2.8, is there an equivalent for a telescope? The telescope has like two parts the main "body" I will call it and the eyepiece, needless to say it got complicated. I briefly looked at this but all I found were formulas and am up too early to do the math.

heartyfisher

its a local facebook group in sydney australia :-) however there are huge global facebook groups for night photography.. just do a search on facebook.

heartyfisher

There is a simple way to track .. get a Pentax DSLR :-) they have built-in tracking. !! good for nightscapes.
But I dont think it will work very well for telephoto lenses for exposures of more than a few seconds.

proudgeek

If nothing else, we've found an answer to the question, "What can we do to make our expensive hobby even more expensive?"

I'll look forward to your images.

Maadscientist

I don't understand your question.

I was referring to the link you published to nightskiesnetwork.com. I meant that I would happily pay someone by the hour who had the telescope and Nikon mount and who knew the settings to use their expertise to show me around the night sky so I could get images such as the one I posted the thumbnail of above. It would be kind of like a track day at the local race track - it gives you a taster and may even light a real passion.

Try these::
http://www.itelescope.net/

http://www.lightbuckets.com/

http://www.arnierosner.com/rent-a-scope/

spraynpray

I'll look into those, thanks a lot.

Maadscientist

I love some of the pictures produced in astro but since I have not done my homework yet it seems the most expensive part of a setup is the tracking "mount". What I have not seen is the lenses used for this. Maybe I misunderstood, do the pros go and use a telescope but the amateurs use either smaller telescopes or a normal camera lens?

I figure there is a conversion around somewhere but have not found it yet to convert a camera lens in to a telescope "power". There might be more to it but for example, say you had a 400mm 2.8, is there an equivalent for a telescope? The telescope has like two parts the main "body" I will call it and the eyepiece, needless to say it got complicated. I briefly looked at this but all I found were formulas and am up too early to do the math.

Correct. The mount is EVERYTHING. That being said, you can dip your toe into Astro imaging without breaking the bank. If you live away from light pollution, or can drive to dark skies, I recommend:
http://www.ioptron.com/index.cfm?select=productdetails&phid=6b0da2fb-2294-4805-bdcb-e534af12c1e2
This is the best way to start with your camera and lens.
If you have more more this is MUCH better, as you have a hand paddle to goto objects in the night sky. It will accommodate a camera and lens OR a small telescope and camera. And it has a guider port, which you will like once you want to do really long exposures.
https://www.ioptron.com/index.cfm?select=productdetails&phid=1206825d-587b-4892-97dd-d6b04c73ba13

Surprisingly you may find your lenses not up to the task of Astro Imaging. What? you say? Jerry has a page on it.
http://www.astropix.com/HTML/I_ASTROP/LENSES.HTM

So, for under 1K you can have a mount and a telescope, which I would recommend over using your lenses.
https://www.ioptron.com/index.cfm?select=productdetails&phid=61eb90e5-ab93-447a-8613-3f8a6b994554

Things to remember when Astro Imaging.
1) The biggest thing to re educate yourself on, is F stop, and the rules of exposure DO NOT APPLY. Aperture solely determines signal. F Ratio is an abstract mathematical ratio that only comes into play when you are trying to increase the aperture of your instrument while keeping the focal length the same.
2) Focal length of the scope determines the sky coverage, or angular view you will be imaging.
3) Polar alignment determines how long you can expose. Learning it, following instructions, and dialing it in pays HUGE dividends.
4) Focus is critical. Until Backyard Nikon becomes available, you will have to focus on the Moon when up, then lock it in place for use later when the Moon is down.
5) Speaking of the Moon, when it is up, it ruins everything, so you have to image when it is down.
6) You must be extremely patient. The weather will screw you to the point you will think it is conspiring against you. However, deep sky objects will continue to be there year by year until you pass away, so you do have time.
7) The rewards are huge. It is a journey that allows you to learn a new skill. And it is a level playing field. Everyone starts with the same night sky. You can't easily buy your way in, or take a trip to an exotic location that many cannot and eliminate the competition. Most of it is the skill and knowledge acquired by the imager.
8) Speaking of competition, it's best to put that aside. Most Astro Imagers are very helpful, and there is a great camaraderie out there because it is so dang hard.
9) Understanding what you are imaging leads to great insights about, well life. Knowing there may be people imaging us from M33, or that stars in the Orion Nebula 5 billion years from now may bear civilizations that look at our star and wonder if there is life around it is awe inspiring.

Maadscientist

Well, I forgot to clarify number 1 above. It only applies to imaging with a telescope. You obviously will have to open the aperture mostly if you use lenses from your camera.

spraynpray

Maad scientist, you are a star! Thanks for all this EXCELLENT info you are giving us beginners.

Capt_Spaulding

That camera mount is really nice. These have come quite a ways. When I fooled around with astro photography 20 years ago a lot of the things we used were home made

http://www.instructables.com/id/Build-a-Motorized-Barn-Door-Tracker/

and ISO 1000 was just about as fast as we mortals could manage.

http://www.amazon.com/Kodak-Royal-Gold-Speed-Exposure/dp/B0000520IX/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top?ie=UTF8