This is an old pix taken as a still shot (1 MPx, I believe) on a Sony Handycam with spot metering and manual aperture. The kayakers were actually called over into the frame. There are other different examples from my old Sony days on Flikr: https://www.flickr.com/photos/120212593@N07/with/13117882095/
I believe that "capturing the light" at sunrise / sunset is about nailing the correct exposure for the colour you want to capture. That is what makes sunrises / sunsets so awe inspiring. Taking many exposures, including bracketing and then "hoping" for a great shot is not necessary... that is how I used to do it too. Matrix metering is less effective as it will try and figure out for you how it thinks the shot should be exposed and not on how you want the colour and exposure to look like.
Try spot metering for the best colour you want from nature's palette, recompose and shoot. WARNING: never directly look at the sun while it is above the horizon. During a sunrise / sunset, the colour can change quickly and depending on the location and atmospheric conditions, the event can last a few minutes to over an hour.
With the spot metering technique, the results are always predictable and there is more time to move around to different angles and you just shoot again when the light changes sufficiently for another look. As illustrated above, this technique even works with any basic point and shoot camera where it is possible to press half-way, lock-in the exposure, recompose and press to take the shot.
I acknowledge that specialised shots involving filters, long tele lenses, gobos, HDR and other tricks require variations to the above technique. Even so, it is still about "capturing the light" for that event, even if it means "inducing" a sunset with 3 hours to sundown!
Mine for today. Apropos of our sunset discussion, here's another take on the subject. I took a shot like this in this location a few years back but was never entirely happy with it. For starters, the longer exposure time revealed just how filthy the sensor on my D90 was, and I had to stop all the way down, which I didn't love. This year I came with a clean D800 and a 10-stop filter and got what I wanted. Feels like a Rothko, no? D800 | 24-70 | 24mm | f/6.3 | 30s | ISO 100 | +1 EV
Inquisitive and intelligent alpine parrot (Kea) of New Zealand. They're known to work in teams where one distracts groups of tourists as the others ransack their backpacks looking for treats!
This is one with the Lastolite softbox 24x24 using the sc-29 ttl cable or camera flash to trigger the sb-910. I had to order a manfrotto hotshoe adapter since the bottom of the sc-29 is basically flat with a screw hole. Just in case anybody didn't know that. Due to calumet photo closing I will be keeping this softbox for sure
our min pin decided to join the fun for some reason. He usually stays away from the flashes.
My share today is Pinnacles National Park - The newest addition to the US National Park system. The wife and I were able to hike 10 miles of this park and it was a tough hike to say the least...
Mine for today. Found this chair just sitting there and it seemed to go so well against the colors of the water and sky. D800 | 24-70 | 24mm | f/8 | 1/60s | ISO 100 | +1/3 EV
Comments
This is an old pix taken as a still shot (1 MPx, I believe) on a Sony Handycam with spot metering and manual aperture. The kayakers were actually called over into the frame. There are other different examples from my old Sony days on Flikr: https://www.flickr.com/photos/120212593@N07/with/13117882095/
I believe that "capturing the light" at sunrise / sunset is about nailing the correct exposure for the colour you want to capture. That is what makes sunrises / sunsets so awe inspiring. Taking many exposures, including bracketing and then "hoping" for a great shot is not necessary... that is how I used to do it too. Matrix metering is less effective as it will try and figure out for you how it thinks the shot should be exposed and not on how you want the colour and exposure to look like.
Try spot metering for the best colour you want from nature's palette, recompose and shoot. WARNING: never directly look at the sun while it is above the horizon. During a sunrise / sunset, the colour can change quickly and depending on the location and atmospheric conditions, the event can last a few minutes to over an hour.
With the spot metering technique, the results are always predictable and there is more time to move around to different angles and you just shoot again when the light changes sufficiently for another look. As illustrated above, this technique even works with any basic point and shoot camera where it is possible to press half-way, lock-in the exposure, recompose and press to take the shot.
I acknowledge that specialised shots involving filters, long tele lenses, gobos, HDR and other tricks require variations to the above technique. Even so, it is still about "capturing the light" for that event, even if it means "inducing" a sunset with 3 hours to sundown!
D800 | 24-70 | 24mm | f/6.3 | 30s | ISO 100 | +1 EV
D610 16-35 f4@32mm ISO100 1/250s
Due to calumet photo closing I will be keeping this softbox for sure
our min pin decided to join the fun for some reason. He usually stays away from the flashes.
d800 70-200 2.8
Coolpix A, ISO 640, 18.5mm (28mm 35mm equivalent), f/2.8, 1/640 sec
D800 | 24-70 | 24mm | f/8 | 1/60s | ISO 100 | +1/3 EV
Large Version
Nikon D3200; Sigma 35mm; 1/125; f/14; ISO 200
Nikon D-700 135 D.C. f/2 natural light
|SB-800, Amaran Halo LED Ring light | MB-D16 grip| Gitzo GT3541 + RRS BH-55LR, Gitzo GM2942 + Sirui L-10 | RRS gear | Lowepro, ThinkTank, & Hoodman gear | BosStrap | Vello Freewave Plus wireless Remote, Leica Lens Cleaning Cloth |