Moments of Light - D610 D7K S5pro 70-200f4 18-200 150f2.8 12-24 18-70 35-70f2.8 : C&C very welcome! Being a photographer is a lot like being a Christian: Some people look at you funny but do not see the amazing beauty all around them - heartyfisher.
Nicely done. The highlight weighted alone is a killer feature of the D810. What ND filter do you have. I currently only have a 10 stop. I was considering a variable ND filter next. If I do winter photos in the snow that might help plus I have videos in mind and a ND filter is usually recommended.
Nicely done. The highlight weighted alone is a killer feature of the D810. What ND filter do you have. I currently only have a 10 stop. I was considering a variable ND filter next. If I do winter photos in the snow that might help plus I have videos in mind and a ND filter is usually recommended.
I use a Tiffen variable ND filter. I have used it 3 or 4 times and so far it's done the job for me. The first time I used it I ran test with and without the filter and saw no quality issues. Then again, have not blown any thing up larger than 8x10". If I was shooting professionally I would have bought the B&W ND...lots more expensive.
D750 & D7100 | 24-70 F2.8 G AF-S ED, 70-200 F2.8 AF VR, TC-14E III, TC-1.7EII, 35 F2 AF D, 50mm F1.8G, 105mm G AF-S VR | Backup & Wife's Gear: D5500 & Sony HX50V | 18-140 AF-S ED VR DX, 55-300 AF-S G VR DX | |SB-800, Amaran Halo LED Ring light | MB-D16 grip| Gitzo GT3541 + RRS BH-55LR, Gitzo GM2942 + Sirui L-10 | RRS gear | Lowepro, ThinkTank, & Hoodman gear | BosStrap | Vello Freewave Plus wireless Remote, Leica Lens Cleaning Cloth |
I'm downloading photos from a bikini shoot I just did with the D810. It was a joy working with this camera. The highlight exposure system was awesome. More thoughts later.
I thought I should add... Sigma 50/1.4 Art @ f1.4 1/1000 ISO 64 with a 3 stop ND filter. Natural light.
Did you by chance use a reflector or any other light modifier on this? Also, is that vignetting all coming from the Sigma 50mm 1.4 or is there a little post work done on this? It look unusually strong to me and I wouldn't have expected (even with a sky scene which I realize shows vignetting the most) to see this so strong.
I use B&W ND filters. Ten stops is a landscape filter for giving moving water that smoky/foggy look, mostly. If you're shooting outdoors, a three stop is ideal with a camera with a 1/8000 ceiling because you can still see pretty well through the viewfinder. I'm not a fan of variable ND filters; generally, the quality of the glass isn't as good. A B&W ND does no more noticeable harm to your image quality than a B&W Clear filter that you put on your lens to protect the glass.
+1. Go with a 3-5 stop ND for anything that has no water movement. Most of the time when I use my 10-stop ND it is on a tripod as well. Very hard to see through the viewfinder. Moreover, I usuall compose and focus my subject, then put everything to manual (ie lens and body), then screw on the filter and shoot.
Post edited by Golf007sd on
D4 & D7000 | Nikon Holy Trinity Set + 105 2.8 Mico + 200 F2 VR II | 300 2.8G VR II, 10.5 Fish-eye, 24 & 50 1.4G, 35 & 85 1.8G, 18-200 3.5-5.6 VR I SB-400 & 700 | TC 1.4E III, 1.7 & 2.0E III, 1.7 | Sigma 35 & 50 1.4 DG HSM | RRS Ballhead & Tripods Gear | Gitzo Monopod | Lowepro Gear | HDR via Promote Control System |
Very well done, thanks for sharing. I don't mean to pull the subject off topic but since you brought this up in regards to highlight metering, I wonder if you would share how you're making use of it as that frankly is what matters most.
Q) With highlight metering, are you shooting in manual model and making manual exposure adjustments according to the +/- gauge in the viewfinder or are you shooting in aperture (presumable) mode allowing camera to make adjustments to shutter speed as necessary? Irregardless of which method, did you do any exposure compensation either manually or via Exp Comp button + or -? In other words, did the camera just grab the frame perfectly all on it's own or did you have to tweak?
Q) Highlight metering on D810/D750 would seem to me to be very beneficial in that it is a kind of automated "expose to the right" setting. Of course, there are instances when there are no tonal values that should be in that highlight area (in your example, you had bright white clouds, reflection of water, etc). I find myself typically either shooting completely manually, taking test shots, watching histogram and image on LCD and making manual adjustments, or I just go with matrix metering (aperture priority, and usually auto-ISO) and allow the camera to do what it thinks is best while maybe dialing in a little + or - comp depending on the scene but rarely more than 1 or -0.7 stops. I'm curious if this method of metering the scene would likely change my normal shooting practices or not.
The feature seems beneficial, but only so far as you're able to recognize the scene and picture you're trying to capture and understanding how the camera will interpret the scene and so forth.
I guess it still always comes back to the person taking the picture, not the camera
No, that's nothing at all to apologize about. I've found myself doing much of the same thing, even shooting on my (lowly) D700. It would seem I always have a stop or two of leverage with exposure in Lightroom where I don't seem to loose any real apparent IQ with the exception if I'm working at very high ISO's or if I do in fact blow out some part of the image not intended, etc. Interesting your comment about better to under expose with Sony sensors.
Focus (accurate and intended) has become a primary driver of my work and the quality of it has shown. It's not something you can ever change/fix in post.
For myself, it does get more complicated when introducing flash into the equation though. Because now it's about balancing exposures and then also exposing different elements of the scene not to mention the technical limitations brought forward (flash sync, etc).
@PitchBlack: You have a very good "artistic eye". And it shows in your pictures.
The more we can concentrate on getting the right picture without worrying about technical things the better - it will let whatever "artistic eye" we have come into play.
Nikon should be hard at work solving user problems like flash/daylight exposure. That will take some of the load off of our overworked brains when we take pictures :-)
Nikon seems to be on the right track with high light protection feature.
Thanks to PitchBlack I now have a new way of shooting with my new D810:) I tried the Aperture mode, highlight priority, and used the +/- according to the situation. I tried this today at an event in a large room with a number of very bright window sections. It really made a difference, and it was much easier to get the great shots in the D810.
That's how I shoot too. It's the easiest for me. I do use highlight as the second photo for now. Using + or - as needed is quicker and easier than manual. I do manual for certain things that call for manual.
@PitchBlack:Excellent point. I have come across this issue myself on a few occasions while shooting with my D4. Although D4/D4's have a native ISO of 100, I does offer me the option of taking it to 50 which is welcoming for times when their is to much light in order to get proper exposure.
Now that you have joined the rare 200/f2 club, I'm sure you will find yourself in this situation a few more times. I highly recommend getting the C-PL3L drop in filter for those time that you do. It will be quite rewarding.
Post edited by Golf007sd on
D4 & D7000 | Nikon Holy Trinity Set + 105 2.8 Mico + 200 F2 VR II | 300 2.8G VR II, 10.5 Fish-eye, 24 & 50 1.4G, 35 & 85 1.8G, 18-200 3.5-5.6 VR I SB-400 & 700 | TC 1.4E III, 1.7 & 2.0E III, 1.7 | Sigma 35 & 50 1.4 DG HSM | RRS Ballhead & Tripods Gear | Gitzo Monopod | Lowepro Gear | HDR via Promote Control System |
After being submerged in the "jungle" of acquiring a new body I took the plunge and bought the D810 today. Following this thread for a while and seen all the pro's / con's people have stated has been very useful for this purchase. Decided between the Sony A7s, Nikon D4 and the Nikon D810.
Eventually realised that I don't need fast shooting rate but was in need of good autofocus performance, hypersync, better iso performance than my aged and trustworthy D5100, higher resolution was just a nice touch. But the low iso of 64 just like the A7r is just phenomenal!
Will be back with some photos / questions later for sure. Thanks for keeping these threads alive!
@ErikssonRobin: congratulations! You just bought yourself a killer camera. Now run out quick and buy a Sigma 50/1.4 Art and a Nikon 85/1.4g.
I second the Sigma, but would save the cash and get the 85 1.8g. Moreover, I...sorry, I mean, we, have other things you might consider getting with the money saved :P
Post edited by Golf007sd on
D4 & D7000 | Nikon Holy Trinity Set + 105 2.8 Mico + 200 F2 VR II | 300 2.8G VR II, 10.5 Fish-eye, 24 & 50 1.4G, 35 & 85 1.8G, 18-200 3.5-5.6 VR I SB-400 & 700 | TC 1.4E III, 1.7 & 2.0E III, 1.7 | Sigma 35 & 50 1.4 DG HSM | RRS Ballhead & Tripods Gear | Gitzo Monopod | Lowepro Gear | HDR via Promote Control System |
Alright, looks like a few bugs were fixed. I did experience bug number 1
Nikon D810 firmware C:1.02
When playback zoom was applied to an image displayed in the camera monitor (image display enlarged) while the memory card access lamp was still lit immediately after capture, the image was not correctly displayed. This issue has been resolved.
When menus were displayed with the camera connected to a 4K-compatible TV via HDMI, display in both the camera monitor and on the TV was not correct. This issue has been resolved.
Noise that could sometimes be heard when Custom Setting d1: Beep was set to any option other than Off has been reduced.
Can anyone else hear a tiny repetitive beep when recording video with the built in mic? It's faster at 60fps and slower at 30fps but still there. I can here it when I playback on the camera (I have to hold my ear up to the mic) or when I playback on my computer as well. This nothing to do with the firmware I just updated and it was doing this before and after. I was hoping the update would fix it. I know I probably shouldn't be recording audio with the built in mic, but that's all I have. Note I'm not focusing when this is happening just to rule that out.
Thanks!
edit: Just tried with an SD card instead of CF and it's quieter but still there.
Yeah, I bought a refurbished camera and I forgot about this issue as I don't really shoot video that often and my warranty is up in a few weeks so I just wanted to make sure it's not just my camera that experiences this. I'm sure it's not an issue with an external mic. Maybe I should try to find one to try it out.
I just checked and it looks like my beep setting is set to off. So reading that again it should have only been happening when it was set to any other setting but off.
Is anyone else having this issue? It's only in the recorded audio, I can't hear it otherwise. I'm going to try other mic sensitivity settings other than auto and see what happens.
Comments
Being a photographer is a lot like being a Christian: Some people look at you funny but do not see the amazing beauty all around them - heartyfisher.
I was considering a variable ND filter next. If I do winter photos in the snow that might help plus I have videos in mind and a ND filter is usually recommended.
|SB-800, Amaran Halo LED Ring light | MB-D16 grip| Gitzo GT3541 + RRS BH-55LR, Gitzo GM2942 + Sirui L-10 | RRS gear | Lowepro, ThinkTank, & Hoodman gear | BosStrap | Vello Freewave Plus wireless Remote, Leica Lens Cleaning Cloth |
Q) With highlight metering, are you shooting in manual model and making manual exposure adjustments according to the +/- gauge in the viewfinder or are you shooting in aperture (presumable) mode allowing camera to make adjustments to shutter speed as necessary? Irregardless of which method, did you do any exposure compensation either manually or via Exp Comp button + or -? In other words, did the camera just grab the frame perfectly all on it's own or did you have to tweak?
Q) Highlight metering on D810/D750 would seem to me to be very beneficial in that it is a kind of automated "expose to the right" setting. Of course, there are instances when there are no tonal values that should be in that highlight area (in your example, you had bright white clouds, reflection of water, etc). I find myself typically either shooting completely manually, taking test shots, watching histogram and image on LCD and making manual adjustments, or I just go with matrix metering (aperture priority, and usually auto-ISO) and allow the camera to do what it thinks is best while maybe dialing in a little + or - comp depending on the scene but rarely more than 1 or -0.7 stops. I'm curious if this method of metering the scene would likely change my normal shooting practices or not.
The feature seems beneficial, but only so far as you're able to recognize the scene and picture you're trying to capture and understanding how the camera will interpret the scene and so forth.
I guess it still always comes back to the person taking the picture, not the camera
Thanks,
Jon
Focus (accurate and intended) has become a primary driver of my work and the quality of it has shown. It's not something you can ever change/fix in post.
For myself, it does get more complicated when introducing flash into the equation though. Because now it's about balancing exposures and then also exposing different elements of the scene not to mention the technical limitations brought forward (flash sync, etc).
The more we can concentrate on getting the right picture without worrying about technical things the better - it will let whatever "artistic eye" we have come into play.
Nikon should be hard at work solving user problems like flash/daylight exposure. That will take some of the load off of our overworked brains when we take pictures :-)
Nikon seems to be on the right track with high light protection feature.
Now that you have joined the rare 200/f2 club, I'm sure you will find yourself in this situation a few more times. I highly recommend getting the C-PL3L drop in filter for those time that you do. It will be quite rewarding.
Eventually realised that I don't need fast shooting rate but was in need of good autofocus performance, hypersync, better iso performance than my aged and trustworthy D5100, higher resolution was just a nice touch. But the low iso of 64 just like the A7r is just phenomenal!
Will be back with some photos / questions later for sure. Thanks for keeping these threads alive!
Nikon D810 • Nikkor 24mm 1.4G • Nikkor 105 2.8 Macro • SB-700 • Gitzo 5562 LTS
|SB-800, Amaran Halo LED Ring light | MB-D16 grip| Gitzo GT3541 + RRS BH-55LR, Gitzo GM2942 + Sirui L-10 | RRS gear | Lowepro, ThinkTank, & Hoodman gear | BosStrap | Vello Freewave Plus wireless Remote, Leica Lens Cleaning Cloth |
Nikon D810 firmware C:1.02
When playback zoom was applied to an image displayed in the camera monitor (image display enlarged) while the memory card access lamp was still lit immediately after capture, the image was not correctly displayed. This issue has been resolved.
When menus were displayed with the camera connected to a 4K-compatible TV via HDMI, display in both the camera monitor and on the TV was not correct. This issue has been resolved.
Noise that could sometimes be heard when Custom Setting d1: Beep was set to any option other than Off has been reduced.
Thanks!
edit: Just tried with an SD card instead of CF and it's quieter but still there.
I just checked and it looks like my beep setting is set to off. So reading that again it should have only been happening when it was set to any other setting but off.
Is anyone else having this issue? It's only in the recorded audio, I can't hear it otherwise. I'm going to try other mic sensitivity settings other than auto and see what happens.
Nikon D750 1.01 and D810 1.02 C firmware updates released