OK Donald I explain what I mean. You cannot transfer wireless to this OTG USB stick, it is just a USB stick, nothing more.
But you can do this. With Nikon Snapbridge you transfer your photo's automaticly with the "Bluetooth" connection from the Nikon Z and the phone or tablet, this is wireless transfer. However you get very small JPG's and we do not want these, but for a quick look on a bigger tablet screen, these JPG's are perfect.
In Snapbridge you also can transfer "only JPG's" to your phone or tablet in higher resolutions, the default is maximum 2mb, but you can change the settings to "original", then you have the JPG's as you shoot them. I do not recommend this, because this is only possible with WiFi and that is very sloooooow, but you can use it, try it out.
If you shoot only RAW, you still get JPG's in Snapbridge with a maximum of 2mb.
The RAW files and the JPG's remain always on the XQD card.
For the normal SD cards I had an USB OTG Card Reader/Writer in my pocket and took the SD card from the camera, put that in the Card Reader/Writer and via that USB stick I copied the photo's to my phone and tablet. The phone or tablet had to be suitable for OTG (On The Go), but most of them from the last 3 years are.
It is the same when you put your SD card in a card reader and copy your photo's to your computer.
I have photo's from my OTG USB stick on my Flickr photostream: https://www.flickr.com/photos/ton1414/? You can get these OTG sticks on Amazon, they are cheap. My card reader has 3 connection possibilities, USB-C, USB-A and USB mini. I can put normal SD cards and Mico SD cards in it and it fit in my pocket. I use it all the time to transfer everything from my tablet to my computer and back.
Unfortunately, we do not yet have these "OTG USB card readers" for XQD cards and the only way to transfer the photo's to the phone at the moment is via Snapbridge.
At home via USB cable or USB XQD card reader to the computer. I have a Sony USB XQD card reader but that is not OTG !! and does not work on a phone or tablet.
I hope this makes it a bit clear.
Post edited by Ton14 on
User Ton changed to Ton14, Google sign in did not work anymore
Another method is via the Android App "Camera Connect and Control". With this app you can see the photo's on your camera and select the photo's you want to transfer wireless to your phone or tablet. In this app you also can set it to "Transfer JPG" only. I used this app all the time with my D810 and checking it now with the Nikon Z6.
This is exactly what you want.
User Ton changed to Ton14, Google sign in did not work anymore
Yes, that is clearer. One question about transfer speed. Look at the files upload to the laptop in that video above. It seems that using the software he uses it is fast enough for "normal" shooting. I don't know enough about that software but it seems like it would work well if you can keep your laptop within range of the Z body.
I used QDSLR on my computer, phone and tablet for tether with Lightroom, where you can enable "auto import", but I cannot get QDSLR running for the Nikon Z until now and the range, you mention is a thing. The D600 with the WU-1b was 3 meters maximum by me, useless.
The problem with WiFi is the range and that it switch from the local Wifi connection (without internet connection) we use with the camera to normal WiFi (with internet) and you have to start it again on the camera, that is not the way.
This happens because of Google, e-mail, weather etc. app's on your devices, they check every time and switch the device automatically.
Back to basics, I open the bluetooth connection on the tablet and the camera, start snapbridge, at least I have a bigger screen and it is quick, well ... The fun is these JPG's are small, but we can use them for the web and maybe that is'nt so bad at all. At home I use the USB stick, the easy and quick way.
I'am looking at wireless drives, "My passport wireless pro" for instance, But we have to wait for those with an XQD connection.
Post edited by Ton14 on
User Ton changed to Ton14, Google sign in did not work anymore
Snapbridge tests, after too much coffee I have the following working workflow.
- Snapbridge installed on the Android phone and the Tablet - The camera linked via "Bluetooth" to these 2 devices - Changed the Snapbridge folder in the app to the SD card, camera folder. - This automatically creates a subfolder "Snapbridge" - Now every photo of the camera comes in this folder as a 1620 x 1020 .JPG - it does not matter how the camera is set for the photo format. - reasonable quick and I see my photo in a bigger format on my tablet. - The range is normal bluetooth ranch.
Additional steps.
- You can link to Nikon Image Space via that app. - You can link the camera folder to Lightroom CC, what I do. - You can share the photo's direct in Snapbridge.
This 1620 x 1080 JPG files are perfect for sharing to the web, you can hardly do anything with this format.
Pro It is free
Con You can connect the camera to the tablet via a WiFi connection, but it takes forever to transfer a normal resolution of 6mb .JPG file and this WiFi drains the battery, unusable for me.
Unfortunately there is no OTG USB stick for a XQD card (Yet) to copy to a phone or tablet. I connected the XQD USB card reader to a OTG cable, the phone can see the card but says that the card must be formatted and you don't want this.
Post edited by Ton14 on
User Ton changed to Ton14, Google sign in did not work anymore
Nice work, @Ton14. Apple doesn't give me a card in my iPhone, but I have more than enough memory in the phone and transfers to and from the phone are straightforward. I usually text or email photos for discussion to the client's engineering and sales teams, so I reduce the image size when I send. Any keepers are in RAW on my XQD card and go into my lab computer for post and publishing. I have also used the earlier version of Camranger on a tablet, but now that Nikon has stabilized Snapbridge, I use the iPhone and Snapbridge as it is less to carry. Con: I have to spend time cleaning up photos on the iPhone.
Jack Roberts "Discovery consists in seeing what everyone else has seen and thinking what nobody else has thought"--Albert Szent-Gyorgy
It may have already been discussed and put to rest and buried but I still would like to hear it from someone who has a Z6 that can say what the perceived difference in shutter noise is from a D500 or other DSLR. I shoot birds almost at point blank range some days and a totally silent shutter would be welcome.
It may have already been discussed and put to rest and buried but I still would like to hear it from someone who has a Z6 that can say what the perceived difference in shutter noise is from a D500 or other DSLR. I shoot birds almost at point blank range some days and a totally silent shutter would be welcome.
It does have a totally silent shutter if you have that mode enabled. I have seen some issues with rolling shutter though. But the normal shutter is much quieter than DSLR, I think.
It may have already been discussed and put to rest and buried but I still would like to hear it from someone who has a Z6 that can say what the perceived difference in shutter noise is from a D500 or other DSLR. I shoot birds almost at point blank range some days and a totally silent shutter would be welcome.
It does have a totally silent shutter if you have that mode enabled. I have seen some issues with rolling shutter though. But the normal shutter is much quieter than DSLR, I think.
Thanks for your replies everyone. From camera to subject is 11-14' normally. This is the type of photo I'm taking by building a set to lure birds into for their pose.
This was taken from a soundproof room so he/she didn't panic and let me pick the shot. Had it not been soundproof one click and it's gone. The whole plan is to use the D500 to shoot 4K trained on nests while using a Z6 to do small birds up close and personal. The quietest shutter is a must and I do hope the Z6 will fill the bill. Being these are often shot very early in the morning or near dusk the ISO tolerance of the Z6 seems to make it the best choice with existing lenses.
I have a Z6 and a D500. Go to a camera store and try it yourself. You will find the normal shutter sound is much less than the D500 (no mirror slapping around) and of course you can set it to be completely silent.
If you use the electronic shutter in the Z6/7 the camera is completely silent since there are no moving parts. However, as mhedges mentioned there is a risk of rolling shutter if the subject moves quickly since the sensor readout speed is somewhere between 1/20 and 1/30 of a second.
EFCS is also pretty quite compared to a normal DSLR shutter, and sounds more like a 'thunk' than a 'clack', and doesn't draw much attention. If you're 14' away this might be good enough, especially if there's other ambient outside noise.
Video in the Z6 is also the best Nikon has made so far, with full frame oversampled 4K and excellent video AF. Are you sure you don't just want two Z6s?
If you use the electronic shutter in the Z6/7 the camera is completely silent since there are no moving parts. However, as mhedges mentioned there is a risk of rolling shutter if the subject moves quickly since the sensor readout speed is somewhere between 1/20 and 1/30 of a second.
EFCS is also pretty quite compared to a normal DSLR shutter, and sounds more like a 'thunk' than a 'clack', and doesn't draw much attention. If you're 14' away this might be good enough, especially if there's other ambient outside noise.
Video in the Z6 is also the best Nikon has made so far, with full frame oversampled 4K and excellent video AF. Are you sure you don't just want two Z6s?
@BVS Thanks for the input. I can deal with some lost out of focus images if the remainder are squeaky clean. There is less risk of movement most of the time it silence of the shutter is present. A friend put up a wildlife monitoring camera with in a few feet of his setup being lazy and still has to get a shot because of shutter noise. And yes two Z6 bodies is a thought and so is a camcorder that will run on AC adapter and record for an hour or more. Most likely 2 Z6's doing there thing and the D500 for outings where eagles soar. So far I've read no negative reviews of the adapter being used with existing Nikon glass so I'm a little more open to investing in at least one Z6 with a lens converter.
Now for another concept with the Z6. Has anyone used the focus stacking feature to make stitched panoramas to make the deepest depth of field possible? On paper it would seem that would work under ideal wind situations where multiple focal points per frame and then each frame stitched and then those stitched together for some very large res pans in the 5'x12' category. I've considered a Z7 using a single row for this or using my multi row pan setup a Z6. Earlier or late in the day the Z6 seems like the best option.
I finally traded in my D810 for a Z7 given the bonus, free FTZ and bought in a no tax state. Excited to pick it up this weekend. Fingers crossed it works well with the 300PF on the adapter. I am probably going to shoot in single point or a 9point dynamic AF mode given the lack of group or good 3D tracking.
@FreezeAction are you shooting the D500 in QC mode for your stills? While I am sure you'll love the Z6 video and quality from a newer full frame sensor, the one thing that is tough to swallow on such a swap is the loss in reach between FX and DX. Remember that video is a crop on the D500 for 4K; the Z6 4K is full sensor, which is great for quality but means that your reach may be approaching half that of the D500 (e.g. a 200mm is going to frustratingly get you the reach of a 100mm).
@FreezeAction are you shooting the D500 in QC mode for your stills? While I am sure you'll love the Z6 video and quality from a newer full frame sensor, the one thing that is tough to swallow on such a swap is the loss in reach between FX and DX. Remember that video is a crop on the D500 for 4K; the Z6 4K is full sensor, which is great for quality but means that your reach may be approaching half that of the D500 (e.g. a 200mm is going to frustratingly get you the reach of a 100mm).
I’m between 10-12 feet away and in Qh mode they scatter like a shotgun went off. That’s why I am concerned about any noise that the Z6 and Z7 may have in Ch mode. I sometimes shoot up to 30 frames to get the composition I like so one shot just isn’t going to work. Most every PAD bird photo of mine was shot either the D500 or D7200 through a double pane French door. The goal is to shoot through a camouflage netting so I really want a silent shutter. I build different sets on the deck for different species as well as sets on the edge of the woods line and both are very close to the camera. Within the next few days I am thinking about renting a Z6 and learn just what it is capable of. Any one who has done similar up close wild life photography I would love any inputs you may have. When the ankles, knees, and legs in general are mostly gone you adapt or quit and I am not one to quit.
I will not trade any of my current 3 bodies away. Only add a Z. Maybe both over a couple of years.
If you are not used to an EVF, as I was !!, when it becomes dark you see nothing. It took me some time to figure it out, but menu item D8 came to the rescue. Set it to "off". I put this in "MyMenu". If you already now this, just ignore.
Post edited by Ton14 on
User Ton changed to Ton14, Google sign in did not work anymore
If you are not used to an EVF, as I was !!, when it becomes dark you see nothing. It took me some time to figure it out, but menu item D8 came to the rescue. Set it to "off". I put this in "MyMenu". If you already now this, just ignore.
Thanks for the info Ton. I am certainly not used to EVF. One thing I am investigating is the possibility of using LED studio lights to illuminate a small set during the first hour or two of daylight with a Z6 shooting both stills and video. I believe the Z6 to be better than my D810 is in low light. It will be pushed to the outer limits as a rental before I contribute to Nikon’s corporate coffers.
Finally got a chance to go through a batch of Z6 kids soccer pics from earlier in the month. I'm not sure why, but it seemed like there were a lot more focus misses than I saw on my first couple of games. And by focus misses I mean it wasn't anywhere close. Honestly it was pretty disappointing. I still got some good shots but it could have been so much better.
I don't think I did anything different. We have more games this week - hopefully I can get better results.
Finally got a chance to go through a batch of Z6 kids soccer pics from earlier in the month. I'm not sure why, but it seemed like there were a lot more focus misses than I saw on my first couple of games. And by focus misses I mean it wasn't anywhere close. Honestly it was pretty disappointing. I still got some good shots but it could have been so much better.
I don't think I did anything different. We have more games this week - hopefully I can get better results.
I just shot Nashville Fashion Week with my Z6 and a range of both Z and F mount lenses. I noticed that in terms of shots being in focus, my hit to miss ratio this year was not as good as years past with my 7200. I switch back and forth from single point focus (my usual setting) to auto face tracking just to see how well it worked. I was also asked to shoot across the crowd and runway this year instead of down the runway as I usually do.
There is a difference and a learning curve in shooting style with the Z6 compared to the d7200. I'm very happy with the shot I have that were in focus but I'm disappointed in my hit to miss ratio. I'm shooting another shot next Tuesday. I'll try to improve .
I set the focus point to ON when reviewing my photo's on the camera. In the beginning I often accidently moved the little joystick on the camera, and I had photo's which were very sharp in one corner in some cases.
User Ton changed to Ton14, Google sign in did not work anymore
I just shot Nashville Fashion Week with my Z6 and a range of both Z and F mount lenses. I noticed that in terms of shots being in focus, my hit to miss ratio this year was not as good as years past with my 7200. I switch back and forth from single point focus (my usual setting) to auto face tracking just to see how well it worked. I was also asked to shoot across the crowd and runway this year instead of down the runway as I usually do.
There is a difference and a learning curve in shooting style with the Z6 compared to the d7200. I'm very happy with the shot I have that were in focus but I'm disappointed in my hit to miss ratio. I'm shooting another shot next Tuesday. I'll try to improve .
Here's a shot from Fashion Week I'm happy with.
Looks good!
I'm sure a lot of it is me. Or, at least, with more practice I can get better results. It seemed like with the D7200 there were more near-misses that were still useable, whereas on the Z6 its either nailed the focus perfectly or I get an out of focus blob.
My kid is supposed to have games tonight, tomorrow, and Thursday. I'll see if I can do better. Will be borrowing my friends 70-200 for at least one of the games since it starts at sunset.
I just shot Nashville Fashion Week with my Z6 and a range of both Z and F mount lenses. I noticed that in terms of shots being in focus, my hit to miss ratio this year was not as good as years past with my 7200. I switch back and forth from single point focus (my usual setting) to auto face tracking just to see how well it worked. I was also asked to shoot across the crowd and runway this year instead of down the runway as I usually do.
There is a difference and a learning curve in shooting style with the Z6 compared to the d7200. I'm very happy with the shot I have that were in focus but I'm disappointed in my hit to miss ratio. I'm shooting another shot next Tuesday. I'll try to improve .
Here's a shot from Fashion Week I'm happy with.
Looks good!
I'm sure a lot of it is me. Or, at least, with more practice I can get better results. It seemed like with the D7200 there were more near-misses that were still useable, whereas on the Z6 its either nailed the focus perfectly or I get an out of focus blob.
My kid is supposed to have games tonight, tomorrow, and Thursday. I'll see if I can do better. Will be borrowing my friends 70-200 for at least one of the games since it starts at sunset.
I'm sure a lot of it is me getting used to the Z6. Tuesday night I'm going to shoot single point all night and see if my results improve.
So many new features that I'm not used too. Case in point.... Nashville Fashion Week typically has 5 runways a night with a 10 min pause between runways. I keep my camera on a Peak Design Sling strap and let it hang off my hip when not shooting. I want to be ready for anything that might happen and the Z6 has a longer boot up time than the 7200 so I leave it on all the time. That combined with the new ability to shoot "cell phone" style by but touching the rear screen means I came home with many accidental but super share pictures of the concrete floor.
Comments
But you can do this. With Nikon Snapbridge you transfer your photo's automaticly with the "Bluetooth" connection from the Nikon Z and the phone or tablet, this is wireless transfer. However you get very small JPG's and we do not want these, but for a quick look on a bigger tablet screen, these JPG's are perfect.
In Snapbridge you also can transfer "only JPG's" to your phone or tablet in higher resolutions, the default is maximum 2mb, but you can change the settings to "original", then you have the JPG's as you shoot them. I do not recommend this, because this is only possible with WiFi and that is very sloooooow, but you can use it, try it out.
If you shoot only RAW, you still get JPG's in Snapbridge with a maximum of 2mb.
The RAW files and the JPG's remain always on the XQD card.
For the normal SD cards I had an USB OTG Card Reader/Writer in my pocket and took the SD card from the camera, put that in the Card Reader/Writer and via that USB stick I copied the photo's to my phone and tablet. The phone or tablet had to be suitable for OTG (On The Go), but most of them from the last 3 years are.
It is the same when you put your SD card in a card reader and copy your photo's to your computer.
I have photo's from my OTG USB stick on my Flickr photostream:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/ton1414/?
You can get these OTG sticks on Amazon, they are cheap. My card reader has 3 connection possibilities, USB-C, USB-A and USB mini. I can put normal SD cards and Mico SD cards in it and it fit in my pocket. I use it all the time to transfer everything from my tablet to my computer and back.
Unfortunately, we do not yet have these "OTG USB card readers" for XQD cards and the only way to transfer the photo's to the phone at the moment is via Snapbridge.
At home via USB cable or USB XQD card reader to the computer. I have a Sony USB XQD card reader but that is not OTG !! and does not work on a phone or tablet.
I hope this makes it a bit clear.
This is exactly what you want.
The problem with WiFi is the range and that it switch from the local Wifi connection (without internet connection) we use with the camera to normal WiFi (with internet) and you have to start it again on the camera, that is not the way.
This happens because of Google, e-mail, weather etc. app's on your devices, they check every time and switch the device automatically.
Back to basics, I open the bluetooth connection on the tablet and the camera, start snapbridge, at least I have a bigger screen and it is quick, well ... The fun is these JPG's are small, but we can use them for the web and maybe that is'nt so bad at all.
At home I use the USB stick, the easy and quick way.
I'am looking at wireless drives, "My passport wireless pro" for instance, But we have to wait for those with an XQD connection.
Snapbridge tests, after too much coffee I have the following working workflow.
- Snapbridge installed on the Android phone and the Tablet
- The camera linked via "Bluetooth" to these 2 devices
- Changed the Snapbridge folder in the app to the SD card, camera folder.
- This automatically creates a subfolder "Snapbridge"
- Now every photo of the camera comes in this folder as a 1620 x 1020 .JPG
- it does not matter how the camera is set for the photo format.
- reasonable quick and I see my photo in a bigger format on my tablet.
- The range is normal bluetooth ranch.
Additional steps.
- You can link to Nikon Image Space via that app.
- You can link the camera folder to Lightroom CC, what I do.
- You can share the photo's direct in Snapbridge.
This 1620 x 1080 JPG files are perfect for sharing to the web, you can hardly do anything with this format.
Pro
It is free
Con
You can connect the camera to the tablet via a WiFi connection, but it takes forever to transfer a normal resolution of 6mb .JPG file and this WiFi drains the battery, unusable for me.
Unfortunately there is no OTG USB stick for a XQD card (Yet) to copy to a phone or tablet. I connected the XQD USB card reader to a OTG cable, the phone can see the card but says that the card must be formatted and you don't want this.
I have also used the earlier version of Camranger on a tablet, but now that Nikon has stabilized Snapbridge, I use the iPhone and Snapbridge as it is less to carry.
Con: I have to spend time cleaning up photos on the iPhone.
"Discovery consists in seeing what everyone else has seen and thinking what nobody else has thought"--Albert Szent-Gyorgy
Also how I use WiFi in Snapbridge and the camera to download .JPG photo's, seems to work.
This was taken from a soundproof room so he/she didn't panic and let me pick the shot. Had it not been soundproof one click and it's gone. The whole plan is to use the D500 to shoot 4K trained on nests while using a Z6 to do small birds up close and personal. The quietest shutter is a must and I do hope the Z6 will fill the bill. Being these are often shot very early in the morning or near dusk the ISO tolerance of the Z6 seems to make it the best choice with existing lenses.
EFCS is also pretty quite compared to a normal DSLR shutter, and sounds more like a 'thunk' than a 'clack', and doesn't draw much attention. If you're 14' away this might be good enough, especially if there's other ambient outside noise.
Video in the Z6 is also the best Nikon has made so far, with full frame oversampled 4K and excellent video AF. Are you sure you don't just want two Z6s?
Now for another concept with the Z6. Has anyone used the focus stacking feature to make stitched panoramas to make the deepest depth of field possible? On paper it would seem that would work under ideal wind situations where multiple focal points per frame and then each frame stitched and then those stitched together for some very large res pans in the 5'x12' category. I've considered a Z7 using a single row for this or using my multi row pan setup a Z6. Earlier or late in the day the Z6 seems like the best option.
@FreezeAction are you shooting the D500 in QC mode for your stills? While I am sure you'll love the Z6 video and quality from a newer full frame sensor, the one thing that is tough to swallow on such a swap is the loss in reach between FX and DX. Remember that video is a crop on the D500 for 4K; the Z6 4K is full sensor, which is great for quality but means that your reach may be approaching half that of the D500 (e.g. a 200mm is going to frustratingly get you the reach of a 100mm).
@FreezeAction are you shooting the D500 in QC mode for your stills? While I am sure you'll love the Z6 video and quality from a newer full frame sensor, the one thing that is tough to swallow on such a swap is the loss in reach between FX and DX. Remember that video is a crop on the D500 for 4K; the Z6 4K is full sensor, which is great for quality but means that your reach may be approaching half that of the D500 (e.g. a 200mm is going to frustratingly get you the reach of a 100mm).
@manhattanboy
I’m between 10-12 feet away and in Qh mode they scatter like a shotgun went off. That’s why I am concerned about any noise that the Z6 and Z7 may have in Ch mode. I sometimes shoot up to 30 frames to get the composition I like so one shot just isn’t going to work. Most every PAD bird photo of mine was shot either the D500 or D7200 through a double pane French door. The goal is to shoot through a camouflage netting so I really want a silent shutter. I build different sets on the deck for different species as well as sets on the edge of the woods line and both are very close to the camera. Within the next few days I am thinking about renting a Z6 and learn just what it is capable of. Any one who has done similar up close wild life photography I would love any inputs you may have. When the ankles, knees, and legs in general are mostly gone you adapt or quit and I am not one to quit.
I will not trade any of my current 3 bodies away. Only add a Z. Maybe both over a couple of years.
It took me some time to figure it out, but menu item D8 came to the rescue.
Set it to "off". I put this in "MyMenu". If you already now this, just ignore.
I don't think I did anything different. We have more games this week - hopefully I can get better results.
There is a difference and a learning curve in shooting style with the Z6 compared to the d7200. I'm very happy with the shot I have that were in focus but I'm disappointed in my hit to miss ratio. I'm shooting another shot next Tuesday. I'll try to improve .
Here's a shot from Fashion Week I'm happy with.
I'm sure a lot of it is me. Or, at least, with more practice I can get better results. It seemed like with the D7200 there were more near-misses that were still useable, whereas on the Z6 its either nailed the focus perfectly or I get an out of focus blob.
My kid is supposed to have games tonight, tomorrow, and Thursday. I'll see if I can do better. Will be borrowing my friends 70-200 for at least one of the games since it starts at sunset.
So many new features that I'm not used too. Case in point.... Nashville Fashion Week typically has 5 runways a night with a 10 min pause between runways. I keep my camera on a Peak Design Sling strap and let it hang off my hip when not shooting. I want to be ready for anything that might happen and the Z6 has a longer boot up time than the 7200 so I leave it on all the time. That combined with the new ability to shoot "cell phone" style by but touching the rear screen means I came home with many accidental but super share pictures of the concrete floor.